Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have come into possession of a Nissan publication entitled Modification Plus which is a Nissan manual for fuel system modifications from the factory relating to the 73/74 240-260 fuel systems focusing on the flat top carbs. It has a bunch of modification, recall information and troubleshooting info. I have not seen this document available elsewhere. I am prepared to scan it into a pdf and post it for general availablitiy. If I am simply missing it, then I will not bother with scanning it. It is dated August 1975. Is this document already out there?
Last reply by ztripper, -
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Hi everyone, I got the exhaust finally installed and started the car up for the first time in a year. I removed the air filter so it was easier to work and I noticed that both air intakes were dripping gasoline. Upon closer inspection the backside of the orange air filter housing also had gasoline being deposited on it. Where you see my finger touching is the location the gasoline was dripping down on both from both carbs. I’m guessing the gasoline could be penetrating the gasket on the intake to the orange housing? I checked all the connections and rubber hoses and there were no leaks, however when I wiggled the float bowls they had some movement (I do…
Last reply by esmit208, -
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is it normal for the idle to go higher by about 250 rpms after the car has warm up to operating conditions ? starts and idles at about 700rpms then it goes to about 950 rpms after warm up . I am using z therapy oil in the carbs I received the oil back in the late 1990s when the carbs were rebuilt ,maybe thinner oil? the motor is a l28 with 1971 4 bolt su carbs also the car is a automatic . thanks
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
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Here is the issue. I have a 260z that has headers and many of the original pollution control items have been removed. The carbs have been rebuilt by Z therapy - I have tuned them according to the video. The car is not running rich to the best of my knowledge. There is no air pump, with headers there is no exhaust gas tube, therefore no exhaust gases through the balance tube, the control valve is not hooked up. No water through the balance tube. The carbon canister purge valve has a crack in the lid, but otherwise seems to be intact. The car runs fine but after a strong acceleration the car wreaks of gas. Sometimes in the past to the point of eye stinging. …
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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Over in Fuel Injection it's mentioned that winter fuel is coming. Where I live we have some stations that sell non-ethanol blended gas that I use almost exclusively. This fuel will store much better than an ethanol blend because it doesn't attract moisture like ethanol and is way less corrosive on fuel system components. I guess this is just a reminder that winter is coming and there are a few months where I live that the 240 probably won't be driven. Do you guys drain the fuel system or fill it full and use a "fuel treatment" for winter storage.
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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So I have my swap completed and I have been running a little 40 dollar pump from autozone with a 35 GPH flow rate and 4 PSI and it seems as though my holley 4bbl needs a good bit more than that... With the carb tuned I can now get it to idle nicely and I even was able to take it up the road a little but if you put your foot down a little and get the thing past 3000 rpm it wants to shut off. It's just not getting the fuel.. Now I know that I should have the 80 GPH flow rate pump but it's just so expensive... I still have my fuel injection fuel pump and just ordered a pressure regulator. Will the regulator be okay under the fuel injection pump? I'd appreciate any help here.…
Last reply by Dogariffic, -
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I put an Art Singer choke mount in and adjusted the cable ends at the carbs with the console out of the car. I installed the console a few months ago and the choke lever hit the console before "full choke". I took it back out thinking I needed to move the mount further up but it appears to be dead on per the instructions. Would it be okay to loosen the cable ends on the carbs and pull them out a little more? I'm thinking I can pull them out until right before they start to actuate the linkage on each carb then tighten the screw on the little barrels that hold the cables. Is it that simple or am over thinking this? That console is very fragile and expensive so I …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hey guys, I want to put my 240z Carbs on my L28 block with an N42 head, how do I compensate for the larger amount of air the L28 takes and what other things should I think about. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by footballnick17, -
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How much horsepower will the K&N 56/9096 filters give me on my L28 engine with 240z SU Carbs. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
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Hello All I'm new to this forum but not to Z-Cars. I first drove a 240Z in 1979 and in the years between there were 280ZX, 280ZX-TT, 300ZX and again a 240Z. My green 1972 240Z, was probably produced in September/1971 (VIN 048531) I would like to refresh the carbs and look for a repair Kit. Seems not so easy. I assume I do have the HITACHI Carbs (Round Top / 3 screws) Where can I buy such a repair Kit? Thanks from Switzerland - Daniel
Last reply by 280zx-turbo, -
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https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/datsun-su-carbs-round-top/6296542272.html
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello, I purchased a dual choke cable grommet/boot for my 1972 240z. I've done some console repairs specifically around the choke cable lever mechanism. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to install the grommet/boot? From the end of the cable attached to the carb? This would require removing the boot and crimps right?
Last reply by nbenning,
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