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SteveC-VA last won the day on July 11 2018

SteveC-VA had the most liked content!

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About SteveC-VA

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    Central VA

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  1. I wanted to get back to this, I looked around and seeing the prices of the 280 distributors I opted to go with a new xr3000 box. That's in and seems to be working fine, still have some jumping of the tach but not like it was before. Of course during the install I broke one of the brittle wires on the temp sending unit, that was a $100 dollar mistake. I did notice the temp sensor wire was sort of hanging out of the brass fitting. It wasn't a huge cost.
  2. I just got finished tweaking my new ZTherapy carbs today. Had I known the difference they would make, I would have ordered these two years ago. My car has always run rough and rich and I could never get the originals set right. The car runs so smooth now and has more power than it ever has. Not sure if others here on the site have had any issues or not but I am extremely pleased, they were well worth the cost to me.
  3. I do have a spare project car waiting to get started on that I could pull the distributor out of to put in the one I am currently working on. I can dig around to see what I can find for a replacement distributor later down the road. I'll go that route this weekend to see what I can come up with on replacing the distributor and install the GM HEI when it gets here.
  4. I will get a pic and post it when I get home this evening. Pic attached.
  5. So I took the car for another drive Sunday morning and the erratic tach movement started back up. I have ordered a GM HEI 4 pin module to replace the Fireball, Zed mentioned this erratic needle movement could be an indication of the Crane module going bad. The question I have is this. Can I just use the existing wiring for the Crane to tie in the GM module once it is mounted on a heat sink plate and grounded? Are there any other things I need to look at in order to do this swap? I am not good with carbs and distributors so need any insight the group might have for this swap.
  6. I dug around in some old tool boxes and all I could find was a Tecumseh mower condenser, I put it on and started up and there was still some jumping of the needle initially. I took it for a short drive and as I went along the jumping stopped and seemed to be all good as I pulled it back in the garage. I let it idle for a short time when i got back and it stayed steady. Thanks Zed and Scotta for the input and sorry for hijacking your thread Scotta but appreciate the assistance in getting this tach fixed.
  7. I had everything buttoned up when I got this. I pulled the tach out of my other car and hooked it up and it worked sort of, it is erratic and jumps around. In the second video, you can see how bad it is and after I turn th ecar off, the tach reads at various levels, not sure what is happening there. I did test the other tach that I pulled out, the terminal where the red wire attaches to the case of the tach and read around 2.5 M ohms. Edit: sorry for the poor video quality. IMG_1517.MOV IMG_1519.MOV
  8. This post was entered on Wednesday evening but didn't post for some reason: Thanks Zed, I will need to lower the heater core to get in there, I can see the bottom section of the fuse box but nothing more than that. I will get into it this weekend to make sure the wire is removed as well as check the continuity of the blue wire from the tach to coil. I got into the tach again this morning, this is what I have done so far. Initially I just connected the blue wire to the - coil on the off chance that the blue wire was removed from the ignition module, no luck, engine would not start. I lowered the heater coil by removing the front bolt and took the TIU out and removed the blue wire pin from the connector and heat shrinked it. I checked continuity from the blue wire under the dash on passenger side to the blue wire terminal near the coil, it checked good. I then dismantled the dash and pulled the tach out and I have 12 volts on the green wire when checked to ground and also checked the green to black and same 12 volts is there. I pulled red wire from the back of the tach post and checked continuity to the terminal on the blue wire near the coil and shows 2.197k ohms, this tells me the wire is good and the 2200 ohm resistor are good. I checked voltage on the red wire with the engine running and see a low, .03 to .06 varying voltage. From all my checks this leads me to the conclusion that I have a dead tach. Is there a way to test the tach by connecting it to a battery and the coil?
  9. I just got my fuel gauge working now on to my tach. I'm having this issue with the tach on my 260 using the Fireball XR700. I tried the wiring as shown in scotta's pic but didn't have the same color combination wires as he listed. My car wiring is hacked everywhere which makes things more challenging. I tried removing the wire from the ballast to coil and the car wouldn't start so I had to go back to how it was. In the pic I have labeled a few wires, I do have the small black/white, it was cut and taped along with the light blue wire. Looking for suggestions to try to get my tach working.
  10. The car is still in progress overall, haven't put the center caps on yet.
  11. Loudon - I am looking for all four side marker lights, still have those? Also, in search of an engine/tranny, is it mostly still together as far as the engine goes? PM me some pricing, I would be picking these up, not looking to get an engine shipped. SteveC-VA
  12. Stealth - I realize this is an older post and you may not have many items left, I sent you a PM looking for a couple of things. Thanks SteveC-VA
  13. New to the group. I have a 75 280z and a 74 260z. I bought the 75 for my son three years ago and we have been working on it when he visits for the summer. We finally admitted defeat as it was too far gone with rust, it was a WV car. I recently picked up the 74 but haven't started on it as of yet. Not going to go overboard with it, a massive clean up, new wheels/tires, new bushings and brakes along with seat swap and carpet. I will be using the 75 for any parts that will transfer over and then plan to sell it as a parts car, it has a good running engine so might recoup some of my initial cost on it. Added a few pics.
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