Topics Last 30 Days

Older thread, I know. But I'm on the hunt for a proper pre-filter, having just learned that the G3 is too restrictive. I just got finished restoring my fuel tank and coating it with Red-Kote. My preference would be all of these in decreasing order of priority: 100 micron filtering. 3/8" barb fittings, or threaded so I can provide my own. Clear body, so I can see if Red-Kote failed, rust, etc. Not glass, for obvious reasons. Inexpensive compared to those racing filters that cost hundreds of dollars. I haven't found anything that matches all of these. Being clear and not glass seems to be the unobtainable feature. But there are options that aren't clear, and meet all the others. I'm currently running no filter,, and really need to install something ASAP. Looking at going with one of these inexpensive aluminum-bodied filters: https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Universal-Aluminum-Gasoline/dp/B0DN6SH631/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KOAAR2TYSE5R&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.p_O7PvRTWOlBskuqunz5j1hb3qgTtqxuxTRwI_k3iJGFft3lAuJQ9dBkfGtH6RUnk8BnmLd6jbNIeSbCMHq6yOLpudvAuIvg28_HnsEirBDW5yuzLC0UXo-IywBRhaLhc7VhdL3reL-MrorDb1I7DBNGdvzQ8GLF33hzosp18jWgf6W3FXldklMcZ7D6IhpkSnMS_k53IFnXQ98ROHfPRKCSNrxPCddjjdLxr1OzYBs.alzow_qg4vB6MChEDLoyk3aaTUBwCPw2cXBaKVCu2rQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=100%2Bmicron%2Bfuel%2Bfilter%2B3%2F8%2Bclear&qid=1751743955&sprefix=100%2Bmicron%2Bfuel%2Bfilter%2B3%2F8%2Bclear%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-3&th=1 Has anyone tried one of these, or something better? Again, not being clear means I'll have to open it and check the element periodically. But I don't see a better option.

I have a slight leak at where the speedometer cable connects to the transmission. I ordered some seals but I'm unable to remove the pinion to install them. I removed the metal tab that holds it in place and can twist it with a lot of effort with a pair of channel locks (without damaging the threads) but only in one direction and it does not move out. I looked at this video but it wasn't too helpful: Can anyone offer a suggestion? Maybe thread something onto the threads and use a slide hammer or something to tap it out?

I'm a member of about 20 different forums. This one has more ads, BY FAR, than all of the others.

Hey guys Im having my Z completely restored and while at the body shop we go into a rather interesting discussion about the brake boosters. I am updating the cam on my Z to a mile regrind (.450 lift 222°) and my body shop guy brought up a concern. He owns a bunch (read: dozens) of old Mopars that he's updated the cams in and in most of them updating the cam leads to the brake booster being very ineffective due to the reduced vacuum. (example: In his Roadrunner, the brakes will work just fine...the first time, but if you press and let go and press again not so much). So question, for those who have updated their cams, did you have any issues with the brake booster afterwards? Thank Jan

Here we go again! Someone who should know better claims that the Z Store program car currently offered for sale on BAT was undercoated from the factory, it WASN"T!! How do I know this? I PERSONALLY, not from an article I read in a car mag, not from something a collector with 50 Z cars in her collection wrote somewhere, not from what a general manager @ a contemporary Nissan dealer told someone, undercoated lots and lots of 240Zs, 510s, 1200s and trucks while working as a Datsun mechanic in the 70s. We were paid 3/10ths of an hour labor for each car we undercoated. NONE of the models indicated had factory undercoating. Now, we occasionally see the rare Z offered for sale that were not dealer , or otherwise, undercoated. The factory paint applied to the bottom was often uneven, but not always , thin, thick, or just plain sloppy. Therefore, some internet experts will claim that it was a Datsun factory type of unique undercoating. OK, while you're certainly entitled to your opinion that doesn't make you correct. Here's one that, I'm confident, will shake the bushes. None of the Datsun models mentioned above came with grease fittings from the factory. That's right, NO GREASE FITTINGS. During the Per Delivery Inspection, PDI, or @ the 1K service we installed them, or were paid another 3/10ths to do so. Unfortunately in many, many, cases this meant that the tie rod ends and ball joints were grossly over greased . I don't know why but I saved a handful of the removed blind plugs and installed them on the 240s that Banzai Motorworks sent along to Gold Medallion awards in the stock 240 class. Did the judges notice? Don't know, probably didn't, but I knew that I'd done the right thing. (No charge) I hope everyone had a safe and fun 4th holiday. Cheers

Discussions about what starter is better than others and how rebuilt starter's quality can be hit or miss have popped up from time to time. The starter on my 79 zx was getting slower and without even checking it with my multimeter I knew it was time to install a new one. I opted for the WAI new starter from Rock Auto. ($150.00 ) It arrived well packaged, including bench test results and really looked like a quality made part. I installed it yesterday and I'm really happy with it. It sounds great and really spins the engine over much faster that my old one did in years. I hope it will last!

If only the left side is blinking with the hazard switch, that means you have another problem as both sides should be blinking with that switch.

I’ll check tomorrow, thanks

There are two seven different versions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blade_Runner

Or a '77 Turbo Carrera (930) is also a beautiful car.

As part of the 4th of July celebrations I am offering a sensible discount to any of the reproductions I make- make a sensible offer A link to my ebay store https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/katodfa

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/7B1C3893-E7E1-4082-978E-03E86971037F-1024x1024.jpg From all of us at Z Car Garage we hope you have a wonderful 4th of July weekend! Long Live The Z Shown above in Red, White and Blue are our clients: CJ’s 1971 Datsun 240Z Mike’s 1970 Datsun 240Z Rob J’s 1971 Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/bee20d36-c3b0-4195-88bf-ab197222412e-1-914x1024.jpg View the full article

Wow…..What a shame…..a real nightmare to a company trying to “get its legs”.

I will justy disconnect the horns, so I can drive a bit. The horn fuse is also for the brake lamps, so It has to stay in, and I will just pull the wires off the horns.

280ZX Brake MC is ready to go! I tore this apart several years ago thinking it would be a short project, but the rebuild kit I had turned out to be for the one made by Tokico (large perforated disc residual valves) and this one is made by Nabco (small rubber duckbill residual valves, see below). I had messed around with trying to rejuvenate the reservoirs. I had read you could cover it in a solution of oxy clean and hydrogen peroxide gel under UV light for 24 hours and it would take the yellow out. It lightened it up, but they’re still clearly yellow. Super clean, though. I also did some chemistry on some of the hardware. The bleeders and reducers for this thing are not common sizes (the reducers are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0) and after two weeks of searching for replacements I gave up and decided to try chemically coating them. I didn’t want to do the hardcore hot bluing or zinc methods because of the chemicals, so I used the rust bluing method. Basically, you soak them in white vinegar to strip off the rust, zinc, and anything else on them. Then you paint them with a paracetic acid / salt solution (8 parts hydrogen peroxide:1 part white vinegar + as much salt as it will dissolve). Dry it with a heat gun and throw it into a double boiler. You’ll see the rust turn black, which is when it turns into iron oxide. Buff it with steel wool and repeat until satisfied, then soak for 24 hours in motor oil. They came out okay. I was hoping they would look more like the pistons, but this is what they look like after four rounds of the process, so it’s going to have to be good enough. Fingers crossed that they don’t just immediately corrode. You could also do the phosphoric acid version (cold bluing), but this makes a harder coating of iron oxide. Then I just had to hone the cylinder, flush it with 91% alcohol, wipe it out, and reassemble. I kept the Tokico 240Z reservoir caps since I didn’t wire the car for ZX caps (PN: 46020-U6701) with the fluid level sensors and don’t have the metal (PN: 46020-K2401) or plastic (PN: 46020-N6000) Nabco caps. Maybe later if I can find a set for less than €53.40. It looks pretty good after test fitting it. I’m waiting for a dust cover and O-ring in the mail, then I can install it and bleed the brakes.

So, on the All Activity page, you can click on anything and it will take you to the end. So, this would be the page to start from when not signed in. But...the page lists all posts instead of all Topics. so there's really no need to click through since they're all right there in the list. Oh well. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Not so much trained but he does what he wants and gets what he wants I guess by just paying attention. He's the reason I get out of bed, his name is Rolex. I know what he wants and he knows what I'm about to do and runs and hides under the bed. Hates baths and toenail trims, cleaning his big ears are a weekly fight too. But I can't imagine my life without a good dog. So yeah I guess he is trained but I didn't do it, he did.

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

They all are, my friend. They all are. ☺️

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

I am located in Austin TX

We have some AI on here already, "why won't my car run as I think it should" 10 years going on 20.

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

Yeah, I like that Turbo 930