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Thanks everyone that contributed to this thread. I was repowering by 65 520 pickup upgrading from the J13 to the L18 and had this same issue with my clutch. Read the thread a couple of times, took some measurements and figured it out. The clutch package I used had an integrated throw-out bearing/sleeve so changing sleeves was not an option. I welded a 1/4" spacer onto the ears and now it's 92mm exactly from the flywheel!

If I had stock of the new hooded map light and was running out of the non-hooded map lights, Would I use the new stock or would I spend money to get more of the non-hooded map lights made? It's like I believe there are cars post HLS30-21001 that have vertical rear window defroster lines because there was unused stock of these parts. Since these type things aren't really safety or emissions related I would not spend money on them if I didn't have to. I would also guess that this type scenario applies to my yellow defroster switch.

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water does not really flow until the thermostat opens at temperature!

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

Actually, the report is in VIN sequence, column #2. The six-digits in column #1 are the registry numbers.

Modification, track, speed

I am a Korean girl living in CA. I have loved cars since middle school. I also play with modification and racing. I want to find friends with similar interests to discuss more knowledge about modification and racing

I want to collect it

Some summertime vibe music.

I think.. the middle and the right one are the same toggle switches, the middle one is only a bit more dirty, a clean up with some soap and a nail brush makes them nice and the same.. btw, my 240z from 2-'71 has the left one. for as far i know it's the original one. It does not work as i always flatten the knob with my right knee! ;-) (as i'm 6 feet 4-5 or so..)

These cleaned up really nice, but the previous owner for some reason cut some of the coolant hardline and I had no choice but to remove the remainder - the ports did strip in the process... There's a reason every pair of manifolds you see on ebay still have the hard line connected... That said I did chase the threads with an NPT tap and I see no reason some barbed or AN fittings could not be used if one was inclined to keep coolant flowing through them. Asking $100 for the pair.

Over the last few weeks, i did some small things and collected a lot of stuff again. First, I exchanged my US-spec front lower valance. Before: And After: Euro spec valance: In case you're wondering, what's the difference? The euro spec has the additional mounting holes / nuts to install the Euro spec front spoiler lip. Here you can see the two side-by-side: This allowed me to temporary test fit my wobbly, worn-out, cheaply-repaired Euro spec front spoiler lip: I still need to change the corner valances to euro spec ones, but also the lip needs a replacement, as this one is beyond repair. But at least I could see how it will look: People often say they're impressed with what I'm able to find for purchase. But this time I even surprised myself. You might remember the Eaglemoss Fairlady Z Kit that I bought a while ago and came with a bunch of magazines? The set has dedicated folders / binders to put the magazines into. I always had two missing, so some of the magazines were stored "loosely". Luckily, I was able to find two unused Folders for exactly that kit in Japan: So all the magazines are now nicely stored: And my book shelve / archive looks much better :-) I also bought a small lot of vintage Datsun (Switzerland) Stickers. Some of which I haven't got yet in my collection: Then I also got a bunch of Documents: First, the Datsun Sports 311 Introduction Bulletin from 1967. Theoretically, it has nothing to do with my 240Z project. But with this car the FS5C71A transmission was introduced The original Overdrive transmission, used in a similar (albeit slightly different) configuration in the early EU-spec 240Z. To find information about it is a bit tricky. So when I saw that this booklet has more details about it, which I haven't seen before. I had to get it: Speaking of transmissions, I also got the Japanese Nissan Transmission service manual from 1974: This one includes the later FS5C71B transmission and some general information about Nissan transmissions, which is not found in the 240Z specific documentation: And then i also got another issue of the "Nissan Star", Swiss customer magazine from 1990, which always has cool insights into Nissan from those days: More to come soon.

I was able to buy an OE molded hose at a local swap meet, so -- even though I bought a length of 9mm (ID) braided hose from Bel-Metric for the purpose -- I never got around to trying out the idea. No reason why it shouldn't work, although you might not be able to make the straight braided hose flex quite enough to match the radius of the bends molded into the OE hose. Unless you're trying to build a concours winner, though, I doubt whether anyone would notice. CORRECTION: I just went down to the workshop and pulled out the hose that I bought from Bel-Metric. It's quite flexible and can be easily bent to match the curves of the molded OE hose... and without any signs of the walls collapsing. It also fits nicely over the nipple of the check valve (the one that fits between the engine-side and mastervac-side hoses). The actual ID of the Bel-Metric hose is 9.4mm, so the best size of copper tubing to use as an insert would be 5/16" OD (7.9mm). 3/8" (9.5mm) tube would be too big and I don't think you'll be able to find 11/32" (8.7mm). In any case, the quality of the fit doesn't matter much because there's no fluid flow happening here. It's just a vacuum hose. The only thing that would cause a problem would be if the hose walls collapsed or got pinched off. It's worth pointing out that the range of aftermarket replacement parts for Series 1 Z's has expanded quite a bit since 2019. Many items that used to be unobtanium (such as this engine-side MasterVac hose) are now quite readily available. The hose in question lists at ~ $80.00 (originality doesn't come cheap). For reference, a 3-ft length of 9mm braided hose from Bel-Metric costs about $15. Add anywhere from $0 to $10 for the copper tubing.

At the top of my list is that it does not have the 2400 valve cover. Did they talk about if the engine was original or not? Between the over 100K miles, the carbs, the fan, and the valve cover, I'm thinking not. So it's a historic car, but it would be a huge project. And the biggest hurdle to getting it to top level would be if the engine had been replaced and the original is not available.

It was Yellow when advertised on Craigslist 2017. This is #55381 and #55380 is also Yellow. On a color change, you usually do not see the backside of the pinch welds on the rockers - painted with a new body color. I can see the areas that appear to be white on the undercarriage...where paint appears to have been wore of scuffed off. White Primer maybe?

So it's still not really clear just when the factory made the switch over to the wide-flange 11061-P0300. The fiche indicates either were possible up to 6/72. But the wide-flange 11061-P0300 does NOT have the extra hole @CanTechZ mentions. The housing with the extra hole showed up on the '73 models and is part number 11061-N3300. And it changed again for the L26 is is part number 11061-N3600.

That's the same as mine, door guards and all. Your paint looks a lot better though as mine has never had a respray. Yours's is my good vs bad comparison.

(kind of like the consistency of a dried-out hot-dog bun) That is exactly what I have. Thanks for the input.....now to get some bump stops.

I liked the car. So, i put a comment.

Yes, I checked the rear sway bar, I replaced its bushings there too when I overhauled the suspension. Thanks for the tips! I ordered the mustache bar bushings. I will probably need to replace my clutch master/slaves - they are original. My 'freshly' (10 years ago) rebuilt 5-speed from a ZX is giving me fits while putting it into reverse. With no engine running, I can't force it into reverse. With the engine running, I can rev up and shift. I am suspecting my clutch is not fully engaging? I also noticed I am missing my upper-stop bumper for the clutch pedal. I can't find that rod with a rubber stop in my spare parts box anywhere. I think it looks like a hood bumper stop?

I like collecting this stuff. A few years back, a friend grabbed this old Nissan bag for me, from the Portland swap meet.

@Pat Horne Good luck.

Bump. I am still making the retainers and the magnets. Bearing retainer are for electronic pickup distributors from 1974 to 1978 and matchbox distributors from 1979 to 1983. They are slightly different. The matchbox distributor was used longer in Europe than in the USA so you may fid a matchbox distributor in a 1984, 85 86 vehicle overseas.