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According to Zhome, 20th is silver and black. So is 19th and 17th. 22nd is blue and black. One of the first things I noticed in the video is that the hood (bonnet) is a later example with the reinforced corners. Makes me wonder.

So it's still not really clear just when the factory made the switch over to the wide-flange 11061-P0300. The fiche indicates either were possible up to 6/72. But the wide-flange 11061-P0300 does NOT have the extra hole @CanTechZ mentions. The housing with the extra hole showed up on the '73 models and is part number 11061-N3300. And it changed again for the L26 is is part number 11061-N3600.

Maybe not...looks like a colour change from white to lime...I posted the link prior to looking at all of the photos.

I've got to believe that w3wilkes' z switch was replaced/upgraded at some point in history. @w3wilkes How long have you owned your 12/70?

That's the same as mine, door guards and all. Your paint looks a lot better though as mine has never had a respray. Yours's is my good vs bad comparison.

(kind of like the consistency of a dried-out hot-dog bun) That is exactly what I have. Thanks for the input.....now to get some bump stops.

Here's the switch from my 12/70 car #17486.

I liked the car. So, i put a comment.

Yes, I checked the rear sway bar, I replaced its bushings there too when I overhauled the suspension. Thanks for the tips! I ordered the mustache bar bushings. I will probably need to replace my clutch master/slaves - they are original. My 'freshly' (10 years ago) rebuilt 5-speed from a ZX is giving me fits while putting it into reverse. With no engine running, I can't force it into reverse. With the engine running, I can rev up and shift. I am suspecting my clutch is not fully engaging? I also noticed I am missing my upper-stop bumper for the clutch pedal. I can't find that rod with a rubber stop in my spare parts box anywhere. I think it looks like a hood bumper stop?

I like collecting this stuff. A few years back, a friend grabbed this old Nissan bag for me, from the Portland swap meet.

@Pat Horne Good luck.

Bump. I am still making the retainers and the magnets. Bearing retainer are for electronic pickup distributors from 1974 to 1978 and matchbox distributors from 1979 to 1983. They are slightly different. The matchbox distributor was used longer in Europe than in the USA so you may fid a matchbox distributor in a 1984, 85 86 vehicle overseas.

I really know nothing about these folks but they're local in the Salt Lake City area. JDM Legends – JDM Legends Store Here's a video they did a while back on a 1972 240Z restoration. JDM Legends - Season 1 Episode 1 - We Are JDM Legends - video Dailymotion

Namerow, Were you successful with the braided hose? Keith

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

So you used the original ignition switch hardware and just replaced the electrical piece that attaches to the harness?

I didn't trust my ability to hermetically weld the tank. So I assisted a friend while he tacked it together. He then took it to a mutual friend with a TIG welder and finished it up. At this point, I poured more Red Kote into the tank and allowed it to flow over all of the seam. I let this sit for about a month to cure. Then, I sealed off all of the openings and blasted off the remainder of the external paint. Interestingly, there were dozens of small hidden rust spots beneath the paint. You couldn't see them through the paint. But when the media hit it, the paint would flake off, revealing a brown rusted spot. After blasting, ready for paint. I primed and painted it with Rust-oleum automotive paint in rattle cans. It turned out decent. No one will be looking at it. Note I didn't remove the original rubber blocks. They were stuck on really well, and not damaged. I did remove the original foam rubber piece near the sender hole because it was falling apart. I replaced it with a similarly-sized piece of 1/8" (3mm) thick EPDM rubber, just to make sure nothing would rattle. You can also see where I masked off the factory marking, just in case anyone might ever care if the tank was original. Lastly, I leak tested it by putting a few gallons of gasoline in it and allowing it to sit on each edge for 30 minutes. The sun was out, so the tank heated up and pressurized, which was a good sign. I'm happy to report that I've reinstalled the tank in the car, and it works fine. No leaks. And no more plastic gas can bugeed to the rear shelf.

I'm all LED except for the dash. I used a couple of these from Amazon for blinkers and emergency flashers and they've worked just fine since I installed them back in 2017. Amazon.com: VOFONO 2-Pin Electric Flasher Relay, 12V Heavy Duty 2 Pin Compatible Automobile Motorcycle Bike Scooter Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Fast Hyper Flash，Two Prong Round : Automotive

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

YES!! Glad to have you back :)

Wow! 😝

April 1970

Got it, I'll give it a look. Thanks!

Some options to investigate: https://upgarageusa.com/pages/nos-parts-we-have-instock-for-1969-1995-z-cars https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-260z-front-bumper-guard-over-rider-strip-kit-69-72/ https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/front-bumper-over-rider-vertical-strip-set-for-datsun-240z I believe I have a spare set of aftermarket ones as well - I think of decent quality. Let me know if you would like to see some pics of them.