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Hi all. Longtime listener. First-Time caller. My question to to community, in short: If you have a rock-solid 280z with the stock EFI, what happens if you "Tap Control Unit" while running? Anything? What if you knock it "a bit harder"? I have a '78 280z that will very random-ish-ly very occasional-ish-ly simply turn off as though I had removed the key. After 10-20 mins of sitting, it fires right up and runs like a train...until it randomly turns off again, leaving me in some scary circumstances. Sometimes it fires up immediately like nothing happened. I have been trying to diagnose the issue for quite a while. After the last episode, I've decided she's never leaving the garage again until this is sorted. While testing in the garage I randomly closed the car door and it immediately shut off. I thought it was a coincidence. Later, when I opened the door, it shut off...but then started immediately. I found a couple posts online of similar examples: https://old.reddit.com/r/Datsun/comments/1f38p25/280z_shut_the_door_car_shuts_off_bad_ecu/ https://old.reddit.com/r/Datsun/comments/1iu2huj/280z_random_stalling_issue/ I have since checked every ground, pulled the drop resistors, cleaned/de-oxed all the connections and made sure they were tight. Just for good measure I swapped-in my spare ECU. I thought that had fixed it...I've been running it for an hour-per-lunch for the past 4 days, opening and slamming the door every 5mins, without issue. I was beginning to think I was good, until today. After about 20 mins of running I opened/closed the door and...stumble stumble stumble...running on 3 cyls...stumble. I gave the ECU a kick, and Poof. Back to normal. Kicked it again...sumble stumble...kick again...stumble...OFF. Won't start. Wait 10 mins. Starts like a train. In the reference book "ELECTRONIC Fuel Injection - 280Z Electronic Fuel Injection Theory Troubleshooting" on page 39 it also has a small reference under "Engine Misfires - HC Reading Too High" it says "5. Tap Control Unit While Driving To See If This Aggravates Or Alleviates The Problem. If So, Try Another ECU." So...have both my ECUs aged-out and need rebuilt? Or is "kicking the ECU" always going to result in some stumbling while 'something' re-sorts itself, even on a "known-good" ECU? I found a thread of a similar-but-different issue where a fix was successful: https://www.zcar.com/threads/efi-harness-continuity-voltage-problem.311536/page-2 And a quick-comment-on-the side by @zedhead that "In my case, I replaced the transistors and that fixed it. " (shot him a DM) My follow-along questions would be about rebuilding and where to get parts...Trying to find a rebuilt unit seems like a non-starter. I spoke to David at MSA today about timelines, because "The rebuilder is locating a qualified Bosch-experienced technician"...for about 3 years now. I'd be entirely happy to rebuild it myself and document the process...but I have no idea where to find components. Arrow and Mouser came up empty. Someone mentioned I should ping @Captain Obvious, which is what brought me here. Would love to hear everyone's thoughts.

An original early brake master cylinder was also sourced for the restoration. The ultrasonic cleaned it up nicely and I've disassembled it and replaced all the seals with original Nissan/Tokico parts. I just need to bleach the plastic reservoirs so they are nice and white. It should look like this once complete.

What a load of rubbish, there's no way the ball can wear out that much! The Japanese engineers that designed that part knew enough about metallurgy to design the part so that never happens. The cheap stuff now coming out of some countries may be a different case, but not the originals.

I love the claims about patents considering that design is very common.

Your hard starting issue sounds like a problem with the fuel mix not being rich enough. Are you using the choke when you start it? Make sure both jet tubes under the carb get pulled down all the way when you pull the choke handle back all the way. Check that the fuel mixture nuts under the carbs are turned down 2.5 turns at least, and that the float levels are correct.

Need both sides

Location and price of the turbo engine

Perfect thank you guys for confirming that for me. Just on the topic of "new" systems and "old" systems I'm currently limited to the Legalis R exhaust pipes product number 750-15414 from fujitsubo themselves and the super Ex headers (510-15037) just to make sure these are the ones that would fit as I didn't know there were older or newer version of the exhaust. see the images for reference

Still don't know what's wrong with it? ;-) Every (good) carparts shop has them!

That was me that posted that photo to show him how a cracked or broken guide could cause an oil problem on one cylinder.

I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.

I ordered one of these plates for one of my ashtrays that was missing one, very nice piece. Quite close to the OEM unit, the only difference I could see is the reproduction is a flat piece, whereas the OEM slotted plate has a small rounded lip around the edge, at least compared to my other ashtray. Both ashtrays are from mid-1971 cars, in that transition period between original series 1 cars and later ones, if that matters. Fitment-wise, the "blade" part sits a little bit lower than the OEM unit per the attached pictures, but overall I'm very happy with the replacement. My ashtray is also missing the spring clip on the outside that I need to figure out now, along with finding a replacement for the pitted chrome rings around the lighter hole. Thanks @Chris Holt for your efforts!

I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

Thank you Gav.

Adding an update here: I haven't found the root of the issue. I keep the car at my parent's house, so it's not always easily accessible, but I'm thinking that maybe a brake line got kinked a bit during installation. I plan to check those next. If I don't find anything there, I will switch to the old booster and see what, if anything, changes.

😎

So it's been awhile since I last posted. Remember that aftermarket ECU? I found out it was bad and causing starting issues and the high idle condition. I happened to find an original replacement ECU from another 1976 2+2 and that solved my problem. I also found that the TPS was missing a screw and out of position on the throttle body. As it turns out, the missing screw had broken off inside the throttle body. I was able to source a used one and installed it. Everything now seemed to work except for the temperature gauge. This was baffling to me since I had replaced it with a new one when I replaced the thermostat and the housing. However, that one was a two piece unit. I tested the temp gauge and wiring by disconnecting the connection to the sensor, temporarily running a wire from the the connection to ground and turning the key to the on position. The gauge needle moved from resting position to max within a few seconds, eliminating the possibility of a defective gauge or wiring. This was reassuring, since I was not looking forward to having to troubleshoot a wiring issue, nor did I want to have to go and try to find another gauge. So, I purchased a new temperature sensor, this time a one piece unit. I had some free time to install it yesterday, and Voila! I once again have a working temperature gauge. Here's the one that didn't work: Here's the one that worked: And the proof:

Thank you! Oh there's rust in it, not too bad though in most places. I think that under the hatch sill is probably the worst of it.

It says on BAT and other places...🤣 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4161254077491653/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Good song I heard in a movie with Harry Dean Stanton, "Lucky". Weird movie but he was weird guy in cool way in all his movies.

Valve cover gaskets were never glued from the factory. Still available from Nissan.

Hi Site……If you shave .080 inches from your P90 head, you’ll have to jack up the cam towers .080 inches too. You use the early 280 valves which are approximately .080 inches longer. With this set up, you don’t need the shorter valve seals……they are used when the L24 head uses a cam with .460 or more lift which would squash those seals. If you decide to do that, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with Eiji at Datsun Spirit…..he has everything you need to build that head. He has a ton of Isky Stage III cams also. If you just send him your head, he’ll build you a piece of art. Nice buy for $25.00.