Bambikiller240

Well, That Ozzie Guy brought it here, but from the number of other forums that were linked to, in the joke; I believe that it had been "on going" for some time. Yeah, what happened to George? Is he out having fun driving his V8 Z?

Girls and Car go together................

Didn't happen in the USA. S30 was from 69/70 thru 78. 280ZX became S130, then 300ZX was Z31 and then Z32 If you are refering to swapping between Coupe and 2+2 models, I think it will depend on the specific panel you are refering to as to whether it can be swapped.

gs31, as in 280ZX???

Well,the head maybe from a 72, but you'll never know about the block unless you check the serial number.

Do you mean different flywheel? Answer would be no, since it doesn't come into contact with the trans, and you will be using the same clutch disc, pressure plate, etc. Just remember to use the 5 speed clutch disc, p/p, clutch fork, and throw out bearing collar, etc.

Hence the need for a micrometer to make the measurement.

The first time I did this job, I pounded (carefully, but not carefully enough) for a day on both R & L side pins, then another day (without care) before I gave up and paid the machine shop their $60 bucks. By then my arms were too sore to continue pounding or I'd likely still be there. :stupid:

www.ZTherapy.com has all the pictures you could imagine.

I encounterd this a very long time ago. I ended up having the center hole in the flywheel enlarged to match the crankshaft. I used a micrometer to measure the size that the hole needed to be. Also, I was very worried that I'd have balance/vibration problems after mating the flywheel with the larger hole to the crankshaft. Turned out that I had no problems, but I think I was very lucky in that regard.

Hey Will: The first time I tried pulling spindle pins, I told myself that I was NOT going to mushroom the threads, I said this several times. And I listened to myself, right up until the point where I messed them all up. One does not know when to stop pounding (usually) until 2 or 3 strokes after one should have stopped. At least that's how it works in my shop. This time around, I accepted Gary's (beandip) gracious offer to lend his tool, and I couldn't be more pleased with his offer, or the results.

Then you are the one I should compliment. That tool worked soooo good. Certainly beats the heck out of the alternatives that I've used in the past!

Always such a gamble lending out tools to someone that hasn't earned the trust previously.

Will: Did you ever get anythng back on the registered mail that you sent to Chloe?

"CAN" make you wiser. Not everyone learns their lessons at the same rate, or ever. ( I have a neighbor that proves this!)

But you won't end up with a freshly, & completely rebuilt engine like Gary was talking about. Kind of comparing apples and oranges here (or apples and road apples) :tapemouth

My 72 has a redline of 7K, and it regularly sees 6K under my foot (even before the rebuild) but I do not go much higher, and it doesn't stay there long. The dynosheets I have seen for stock L24 engines indicate the peak HP and TORQUE are achieved near 5.5K RPM so there is not much to be gained above that figure.

General Lee? :stupid:

This is NOT true! 1. Smog equipment could have been removed by previous owners. 2. BOTH 72 and 73 engines had E88 cylinder heads. There are TWO different types of E88 cylinder heads. Can't tell them apart without pulling the head from the engine. 3. What RPM an engine makes peak HP at, has little to do with the "REDLINE" of the engine. Compare the actual serial number on the engine to the engine serial number listed on the chassis ID plate to determine if the engine is the original one.

That is similar to the one that beandip has (which I borrowed). His is a much improved tool that incorporates a ballbearing pack to reduce friction as the tool is used, and has a few other handy features. Now I wish I had taken detailed pics while I had it here. :stupid:

MSA in Orange, california sells what they claim is a reproduction of the stripe kit. I do not believe the one that was sold through Nissan is still available.

Try a search using "spindle pin puller" or "spindle pin tool". There are threads about it and one or two of them had pictures attached.

Probably a rip off auction. The winner will send a down payment by certified check, or wire tranfer, and that will be the last he sees/hears of his money, or the car/seller. Definitely a suspicious deal.

The joke was that you got shuffled to site, after site, after site, after site, after site.....................................and the blonde folks never quit trying to follow the links.