Bambikiller240

Yeah, everybody knows that they are NADS! :stupid:

Quack!!!!!

You might want to check our archives before deciding on a pre-made system from MSA. Many people have reported fitment problems with those systems. The system linked above doesn't have provision for the factory pre-muffler, so it doesn't really come close to a stock OEM system. A local quality muffler shop should be able to bend up a simple exhaust system using your stock one at a guide/pattern.

The bearings likely will loosen, after they bind up completely (but in a very catastrophic way). The bearings should be relatively free turning from the completion of the assembly process. The FSM indicates a rear wheel bearing preload of 3.9 inch/pounds.

David: I found this info on the IZCC mail list a while ago. It was provided by a guy named Kim Blough who owns Idaho Z Car. Hope it helps. "Finish the job by tightening the new axle nut in stages. Check for VERY free rotation of the axle between each stage of torque. If the axle becomes hard to turn, either the inner seal is rubbing on the companion flange, or the distance piece is too short and the very minuscule clearance between the ball bearings and the races has been compromised. (Used up) There are shims available to lengthen this part to allow full torque of the axle and the inner races/distance piece into one solid unit. Most of the time simply reusing the original spacer and shims will suffice. Premature bearing failure can result in a very short time if the axial side loading of these ball bearing type bearings is not proper. A properly torqued axle with proper length spacer installed will spin very freely, with only a minimal drag caused by the wiper surface of the inner and outer seals."

Chloe used to sell them. Maybe any Nissan dealer can get them?

Or it could be that the motor has not yet rotated far enough to "activate" whatever internal mechanism causes the motor to continue to run until the wipers reach the "park" location once the switch has been turned off. Chris: The condition you describe has always been observed in the 240Z's that I've owned, even the one that was less than 2 years old when I bought it. As for accessing the cap that Enrique mentioned, you'd need to remove the black plastic "bag" that encases the motor to get to this cap. (BTW, good info about the adjustability of the park location, Enrique)

I suspect that there is another "sticky" label that would have been applied over that choke symbol, similar to what they did in the center sw area. Probably fell off sometime in the last 30 years. (guessing)

MikeW: I think Enriques pic shows a OEM JDM arrangement. The center pair of switches was (I believe) used to energize the side markers on one side OR the other of the car when parked at night. Kats or someone has explained (somewhere on the site) that this was required in Japan due to narrow streets or areas with poor lighting IIRC. Perhaps they were not required to have the seatbelt warning light that the Feds required here in US

Thanks for the 280Z console pics, Wayne Here are two pics of my spare "late" 240Z style console. Under the Logo plate (which has been removed) there is a "Factory" provided provision for a switch, warning light, or something to be mounted. I don't know what the factory intended for this location, but this is where I have seen fog lamp switches mounted here in the USA. FWIW, 26th-Z's (Chris') pic of toggle switches on the dash shows the arrangement on an "early" N.A. car when the cigar lighter was still on the console/fusebox cover area. On later N.A. cars, the cigar lighter would have been installed in the upper toggle switch location on the dash by the "factory".

ChrisA and I have 72 (series II) cars

Chris: That is where I thought it would go. I doubt that the wiring up under the dash will reach, but there was probably a short "pigtail" wiring harness that reached from the switch to the under dash wiring. Like for the Choke Lamp and seatbelt warning light. Probably you'll have to rig some wiring to the underdash connectors. I don't think N.A. Z's were ever delivered with fog lamps, unless an owner ordered them from an acessory catalog and had them installed by the dealer. The folks I knew that had fog lamps just bought generic parts store kits and wired them up themselves, not even knowing that there were hidden wires in the harnesses.

I currently have my 240Z wipers all torn apart and being rebuilt, and documenting the process. The only 2 thngs I can see that would cause that would be either the mechanical connector to the wiper motor being installed 180 degress from how it should be, or the spring in that connector assembly being broken, allowing the connection to rotate out of normal position. Some day I'll have a "How to" article for 240Z's on this subject. I wouldn't think that 280Z's could be significantly different.

Hi Wayne: On the 2 out of 3 240Z's that I have owned which had these console lids, two holes needed to be drilled at the rear of the console by the installer. The OEM Nissan replacement console that I bought in 1999 did not have holes in the rear to mount anything. Yeah, the hinge on the lids that I've had were indeed simple generic hardware store hinges. Not sure what you mean by "the hinge is placed so it swings at the back, rather than swing on the passenger side as stock lids." What "stock lids" are you refering to? 280Z? I'm not familiar with those consoles.

I don't know if they were available as an factory option on Z's destined for other countries but those overrider bars were sold by aftermarket companies (most notably AMCO) in my area and at my local Datsun/Nissan dealership, all of these AMCO items were "dealer options" on new Z cars.

Yes, they did Vicky. They applied it under the car, in the engine bay, they even drilled holes in the door jams, and other structural channels to inject the Zbart stuff into hidden areas of the chassis. the holes were then capped.

see post #122

Let's see how the bidding compares to Burt's silver 71 Z just a week or so ago, which died at $22.1K . Car is in same area of the country, & has 10K more miles than Burt's car.

They used to appear on eBay frequently. Maybe they still do, I haven't been keeping up with eBay lately.

Well, they look good, but it's the specs they were built to, which will make the difference. Price sounds good though.

Thanks for the link Mike! Always wanted to have a copy of this document.

If there are so many of us that you find fault with, WHY do you continue to post here? Perhaps you perceive yourself as our "Savior", or we should leave to please you? You are acting very petty, Alan! (notice I didn't call you "that name")

I invited you to PM's in order to let the thread continue on topic. Period. You chose not to do so. Instead you continue to perceive a personal attack at every post that doesn't agree with your view. As for names, guess if you must. As for my use of BOLD and quotes, I am pointing out what you wrote. Period. Since you are the only one making a big deal about the word "factory" being an insult and the expectation of an apology, it appears that you expect an apology. You won't get it from me! I wouldn't bother to tell you what I want you to do. But maybe you shouldn't expect everyone to see things your way, whether you are right or wrong. As for the "name", you were not called anything like that in public. If it was done privately, perhaps you would have been better served to take the "high road" and keep it private.