Bambikiller240

Simplest way to link is to "copy" from the webpage address you want to link, and "Paste" it into your post.

That is an aftermarket air cleaner, definitely NOT a stock one from any year. The balance tube between the two intake manifolds looks like one I saw on a 260Z.

I don't have a brand recommendation. I just found something at the parts store that was labelled as being High Temperature Silicone Brake Grease. It was almost clear (slightly yellowish) and came in a plastic tube. PS I don'tthink it has to be "High Temperature" but that was what was printed on the tube I bought)

Shannon: On the front end, it could be anything from frame damage to worn or broken suspension pieces (ball joints, tierod ends, bushings). As far as I know, the 280ZX came with U-joints, but it is possible someone changed it over to CV joints. Either way, I'd have the car inspected by a good shop to determine what is causing it to "feel squirelly".

"production" in name only

2. Yes, but USE EVERYTHING from the 240Z, and NOTHING from the ZX. Don't mix clutch/trans parts!! 3. Yes, if it is a 3 row radiator. If it's only a 2 row (stock 240Z), you will likely have problems as the radiator was marginal for a 2.4L engine in the first place. 4. Yes to fan, Yes to Shroud. If you end up changing to a ZX Radiator, you may need to modify the shroud to fit 5. Yes, Use same Engine mount brackets and motor mounts 6. How much fun you'll have when the job is done.

350Z Wins Grand Am

I am a Vet (the human kind)

It doesn't "do" anything that the site doesn't do. In fact, you cannot send attachments so pictures and graphic are out. It does give people an alternative to cruising the site to get or give information. The mail list existed long before the club website, a precursor to the website, if you will. It was estabished by Mike as an alternative to the very busy IZCC mail list which caters to all Z models. The S30 series information was getting kind of lost amongst all the S130, Z31, Z32 content (as I understand it) If a person signs up for the regular mail list, all of the messages and replies come directly to your email account and you can choose to read or delete as you see fit. Some people like it this way. If you sign up for the "digest" version of the list (which compiles all the individual email messages into one "package email" that is sent to you once a day, people can read and respond at one brief sitting and move on with life. Some people like it that way. Anybody else have info?

The article also said that Nissan made FIVE of them to homologate for the JGTC. (all sold in Japan). That may qualify as "production" for JGTC homologation purposes, but for the rest of the world it surely does not. Even if the Nismo parts are available to modify your own 350Z, it isn't a production model for the NA, or OZ market.

My car squeaks a tiny bit in the winter time (temps below 50-55 F.) I probably didn't use enough grease, or maybe forgot a spot or two. Doesn't annoy me enough to bother with at the moment. Like Chris says, you'd have to disassemble to grease every P.U. to metal contact point.

Did you apply silicone grease to the bushings when you installed them? The instructions that came with my bushings specified that they be coated with silicone grease wherever they contacted metal in order to avoid squeaks.

People would send emails asking questions, answering questions, discussing things of interest concerning Z's to this address: list@240z.org, the emails would then be forwarded through the server to everyone who had subscribed (either as individual emails, or a "digest" single email containing all messages sent during the day) People could then answer the questions posed, make comments, etc which would be forwarded to all members. The IZCC, www.ZHome.com has a similar mail list covering (predomantly) North American varients of Z's (S30, S130, Z31, Z32, etc) It is a very busy list The beauty of the 240z.org list was that it was specific to S30 Z's and was more laid back than the IZCC list.

Currently there is no (active) list, When it was active there was a link on the home page to subscribe to it.

Tom: After reading the FSM yesterday I understand "more" of how the 70-72 P valve operates in the system, but I do not believe it's a great system. The 73 -78 system makes a lot more sense to me. BTW, I did acknowledge (see prior post) that I was wrong. No need to humor me, if you know something someone else doesn't know, please post as you did. If they question the validity don't hesitate to post references to back yourself up. Ya can't expect people to blindly believe everything posted in an internet forum.

The VB illustration shows the 3 way splitter, and lists it as an available part. (see my earlier post for details). Their illustration also shows the P valve in very light drawing (compared tothe rest of the illustration) and absolutely no mention of it is made in the parts listing, though the bolt that secures it to the chassis is listed as available.

Here ya go Will, everybody: WIND NOISE BE GONE I have put up with wind noise and a cold left ear for a long time. Most of us with 25-30 year old cars have also. I ve looked at replacing the window channel felt, but was turned away because of price. Dealer parts were way too expensive and the best price I had found was with Victoria British at $13.00 per side. That was until someone on the 240zclub-email list mentioned that he had found the part at JC Whitney for cheap. He even gave the part number and price. I thought I d hear an uproar on the discussion list of people thanking him and expounding on their experiences with replacing this little serviced but greatly needed part. But low and behold I never heard a word. That thread stopped as quickly as it had begun. I however, didn't forget to print the ordering information and called JC Whitney to order the parts for my 73 240Z. I have to tell you that replacing this window seal was the second best improvement/modification I ve ever made to my car. Second only to installing the GM HEI electronic ignition. The wind noise has disappeared, the glass doesn t rattle within the frame, and there is no cold air blowing on my ear. Quite the improvement. So here s how it went. The entire job for the driver's side door took me all of 35 minutes. I used an ice pick to pry the old hard rubber channel out of the metal frame, working it out in a single piece. I wanted to use the old seal for a template to cut the new one to length, and to copy the notch in the corner. The channel felt doesn t extend all the way down into the door, but stops about 1 ½ " down past the window glass seal and the inner fussy trim. Because you can reach all this from outside, all you have to do to replace the channel seal is remove the inside door panel. (Although, when I did the passenger side, I left the door panel inplace and had no trouble completing the job) This will give you more room to work. You don t have to pull off the metal channel piece. I cut the new channel seal to length and then marked and cut a notch in it where the upper most 90-degree corner is. This notch should not cut all the way through the seal, but rather only notch the sides so that when you bend it, it will form the 90-degree corner. You ll have the old to use as a pattern, so just copy it. I noticed that the original did have a bead of adhesive holding it from sliding, so I got out my trusty 3-M weather-strip adhesive. I applied a thin bead inside the metal channel and along the back of the new seal, let it dry, and the reapplied to the rubber only. Now all you have to do is fold the new seal together and slip it into the metal channel, starting from the corner, and pushing the new seal up tight into the corner. Then work it into the channel down the backside till it s inside the door, and do the same thing along the top, and down the front. When the new seal is in place check to be sure it s not twisted or off center, and then roll up the glass and make sure it slips into the slot. I had a place where it folded over on the backside, down below the door lock, so I rearranged it and carefully rolled up the glass to seat the seal. After that it never moved again. The only thing left to do is to replace the inner door panel. I recommend this to all first generation Z owners. If you haven t done this yet, do it now. The JC Whitney information is listed below. These seals will fit all 240 Z 260 Z & 280 Z cars, 1969 through 1978. JC Whitney Auto Parts 1 JC Whitney Way PO Box 3000 LA Salle, IL. 61301-0300 312.431.6102 www.jcwhitney.com The catalog item number for the part is 18GA-4874U. Now here s the tricky part. The letters in the catalog number can be different depending on which issues of the JC Whitney catalog your looking at. But if you call the order line and tell the person you want part # 18-4874, you ll get the right stuff. It s description is "Rubber Window Channel 9/16 " x 17/32 ". It comes in an 8-ft. piece. Which is almost enough to do both sides, but not quite. So, you have to order 2 pieces. The price when I ordered was $6.99 each.

, Oh good one!

Guess we all have changed a lot since the mid 70's.

Glad it arrived safely. Do you plan to work on both cars at the same time, or do 26 first, and 27 later? Sorry can't make the party, not enough time to make it there even if I left tonight.... unless I made a Gurney/Yates run!

To speculate (as loyal customers) is all we are left with given the lack of response, and/ lack or explanation on the Midwest website. Surely whomever is running the auctions knows how to click on "reply" to email inquirys. (?) Again, You are right, we DO NOT know what (if anything) has happened, But we (as customers) would like to know. All I can say is that to ignore inquiries, and expressions of concern is not like the Chloe I came to know and appreciate.

I checked all of my manuals, (FSM's, Haynes, Clymers, Henley, etc) and the item we were discussing (picture posted by Walter Moore) is indeed listed as a Proportioning (or Pressure Regulating) valve. Nissan recommended inspection interval is every 30,000 miles (50,000 km). The FSM has a detailed explanation of it's function. Basically it is just trying to make the rear wheels lock either "at the same time" or "after" the front wheels do so. OK, so I was wrong.

Michael: That book looks like it could be published from a company called Autobooks, in England. I bought a Z specific book on eBay that is a hardback like this one appears to be.

Sorry, I really can't buy that explanation. Why then is there another P. valve on the firewall of 73 to 78 S30's and the item we are discussing in the rear is still in the system? Two P. valves? Why? Doesn't make sense to me.

Difficult to say with nothing to compare to, but it looks like the gauges we have in the USA for 240Z's (except the Km/h speedo)