Bambikiller240

If it's metal, it's a factory item (added by dealers) that was made available in the USA beginning in 73. Actually, from what I have heard, it was one of the items (like the electric fuel pump, and insulation wraps for the fuel rail) that was used to address the fuel vapor lock, and other heat related issues encountered when the Flat Top carbs were used on 73 240Z's. Dealers would have been wise to use it with aftermarket A/C as well. If you choose not to use it, you can get a good price for it on eBay. I don't know about the $5 one that Bill mentioned, but either that one was somehow different, or all the bidders with knowledge of what it was were asleep at the keyboard. I've seen them go for around $75 on several occasions.

Before the Spindle Pin tool was created, I took my suspension to a machine shop, and with the use of a 30 ton press, and a torch, they were able to get the pin out. (think they cut off the threads I ruined first. $30 bucks each. Other people have said that they used a "Sawzall" to cut the pin on both sides(in between the Axle Housing and the A-arm), then pressed the remainder of the pin out of the Axle Housing. They were able to reuse the A-Arm

How well do you trust the shop? If you haven't seen their completed work before, and/or gotten recommendation from friends, and know what you are going to get; I'd consider telling them that you don't want then to cut corners on the work. If there are any questions as to what you expect, for them to contact you first. Don't assume anything.

Don't use the "Quick Reply" method of posting. Click "POST REPLY" button. On the "Reply" page enter you text, then scroll down to the "Manage Attachments" area. Click on Browse" and find the image you want on your computer. Select it, click "UPLOAD", close the attachment window, click the button to post your reply.

240Z's did not come from the factory with undercoating of any kind. Some were undercoated by dealers, or owners, and usually not painted. I would say the yellow paint over the undercoat is indicative of a prior repaint before the red was applied. In any case, if it were mine, I'd consider removing all of the undercoating ( yeah, I know it's a big PITA job, but....) to confirm the condition of the entire chassis and repair as needed. Might even POR15 the underside and only then would I consider reapplying an undercoat. Opinions will vary, but I would do it right, once; and not have to worry about it again.

Will: It was me who arranged to borrow one from another member. I can vouch for how useful that tool is. IMO you were fortunate to be able to get one out without using the tool. Using the the tool, you can easily remove a spindle pin (you screw the tool onto the pin, so I hope you haven't trashed both ends of it) without damage to the parts or your hands.

I think this is covered in previous threads. I can't find it, but you might try a search. I know it's in there somewhere.

So Charlie wasn't comming, he was just breathing hard. Glad you guys are OK. Anybody heard from SEEREX yet?

Think they are using 300ZX Rotors and Toyota Calipers. Unless I'm reading it wrong.

Did we get that model in the USA?

Here tis IRFANVIEW You can also do this in "MS Paint"

That damn mouse employs a lot of people. If he gets it, there's gonna be a lot more folks on unemployment than there was last week.

I did, it's full of porn!

No need to get under the car to find the fuel rail. (see pic) As for a mount, you'll need to make or find some thing. (Here's a pic of the stock Z car electric fuel pump bracket) Insert quotes? To start your post with quotes in it.........You have to click the QUOTE button at the bottom right of the post you want quote from

Mets!!!!!!

ALL religions are bad! When taken too seriously. (Ducking for cover now!) Jihad!

Thanks Mike! Great Idea! I'll file this away for when I can find the bumper I bought 3 years ago! :stupid: I know I still have it, I just can't find it. Grrrr.

Hell, I STILL think it was a successful mission !! Congradulations! They're still trying to convince themselves that it's not real. Sure they'll figure it out "for real" soon, but it 's good to give them a dose of their own crapola. Good one Marc!

Clutch Disc 70 - early 74 (incl 2+2) are the same Clutch Disc 75 - 78 (Coupe) are the same (different from others) Clutch Disc 75 - 78 (2+2) are the same (different from others) Pressure Plate 70 - early 74 (incl 2+2) are the same Pressure Plate 75 - 78 (Coupe) are the same (different from others) Pressure Plate 75 - 78 (2+2) are the same (different from others) Release Bearing 70 - 78 (all) are the same Clutch Fork 70 - 72 are the same Clutch Fork 73 - 78 are the same (but different from 70 -72) Clutch Fork Pivot Ball 70 - 71 are the same Clutch Fork Pivot Ball 72 - 78 are the same (different from other) Clutch Master Cylinder 70 - 78 are ALL the same Clutch Slave Cylinder 70 - 72 are the same Clutch Slave Cylinder 73 - 78 are the same (but different from 70-72) Release Bearing Collar 70 - early 74 are the same. **The collar where the Release bearing is mounted is where it gets complicated. I think that has been covered elsewhere in regard to changing from a 4 speed to a 5 speed trans. Basically, you want to use the collar to match the year and model (2+2, or Coupe)of trans/clutch you are using. You might want to do a search for more detail on the Release bearing collar issue if changing from 4 to 5 speed. FUN isn't it! :ogre:

Hadn't crossed my mind either. I emailed the IZCC list and Kim Blough of Idaho Z Car put me on the right trail.

The "+" indicates that the named member is on your BUDDY LIST.

On "some" cars you will run out of adjustment at the slave cylinder and still have problems with slippage. In many of these cases the problem stems from the clutch pedal itself. There is a hole in the pedal arm that the clutch master cylinder linkage attaches to with a hardened clevis pin and over the years the clevis wears the round hole in the pedal arm into an oblong shape which causes motion of the pedal to be wasted as the slop in the (now) oblong hole is taken up so that he master cylinder linkage can start operating the hydraulic system to actually create movement of the slave cylinder. Thus the master cylinder doesn't create the full pressure needed to make the slave move the full distance it needs to move the adjustment rod. I experienced this problem after a complete new clutch system (disc, p/p, t.o. bearing, m/c, & slave) installation when I first purchased my present Z, I discovered the oblong hole in the pedal and sent the pedal out, to have a steel bushing with the correct 8mm hole bronze welded into the pedal arm to correct the oblong hole issue. Full movement restored, no problems in 4yrs+.

Actually, from 73 forward the clutch is self adjusting. The clutch fork is different, and the slave cylinder is different for PRE 1973 Z transmissions, than for POST 1972. 70-72 adjustment is a manual process. 73-78 adjustment is automatic Check your FSM's boys & girls

not if his expectations for sale price are unreasonable.

Like most kidnapper's he's not above killing the hostage if he doesn't get what he wants. How much more can it be worth when it's missing rear brakes, and no one even knows if it runs?