Bambikiller240

Sheet metal. Don't know the gauge, but probably around 16 gauge. Here are some detail pictures of the access panel.

If you do not smell gasoline inside the car, it is more likely to be the filler hose that has failed. If it was the vent hoses, you'd likely smell a molotov cocktail inside the car. EDIT: Of course it could be a leak way low on a vent hose "before" they enter the passenger cabin. Easiest way to check is to remove the access panel at the back of the right rear wheelwell so that you have good visability of the filler hose. Let us know what you find.

Yes. It seems that only .JPEG or .JPG files can be attached or uploaded. .PDF documents and .BMP picture files (amoung others) do not upload.

I don't know. Actually, I wasn't aware that there was supposed to be a mark on the housing until David (panchovisa) mentioned it.

I use a product that I bought from MSA called "Back to Black".

The open end of the bag is folded over and held closed only by nylon rivets, so I don't think it could be considered "weatherproof", but judging by the cleanliness of my Wiper Motor. the bag does do a good job of keeping dirt and leaves away from the motor.

Here is a picture showing the adjustment "cap" that Enrique is referring to.

*** all of this ASSUMES that the bearings have been fully seated, and there are no "assembly" issues causing your problem. Step one would be to look on the strut housing to see if you can find the Code Letter to tell you what distance piece the housing requires. Second, would be to disassemble and see if you have the shortest, or middle length, (or longest) piece. Only then will you know which, if any; of the pieces you need. In other words, if you HAVE the shortest distance piece in your assembly, you could need either the middle, or longest distance piece. (or something else is causing the problem) If you have the middle length distance piece installed, you could need the longest piece (or something else is causing the problem) If you have the longest distance piece installed, and the housing requires the longest piece. (something else is causing the problem) Just my $.02

....or buy a copy of the Jed Clampett BBQ Cookbook.

Odd that the floorpan drain plug is painted the body color. The Z's that I've owned had these plugs unpainted. I suspect a repaint, or some other shenanigans Cancer bubbles under the paint at bottom of Passenger door as well. I'd be inspecting the entire car very carefully before bidding too high How nice that the seller has posted the previous owners name and address on the internet! Real class act! :mad:

Link is messed up. can't even cut & paste to get it to work.

Michael: Sorry, for the "wise guy" answer With 180 ft/lbs of torque applied to the stub axle nut, everything "should" be in the place where it belongs. There should be no room for movement or "settling" of parts. The bearings will spin "more freely" over time as the parts wear, but they should not require much effort to rotate from the very beginning.

David: Let me preface my post with the caveat that I have NO personal experience with this job. I have read and saved as much information provided by others as I can find. First I am understanding that you are using the bearings, distance pieces. washers (shims) and other parts from one set of strut housings and installing them into some (different) other strut housings that you acquired which did not have these parts. Right? I do believe tha the "washers" that you refer to are the shims mentioned, however if you notice there are 3 different sized distance pieces listed in the microfiche: #10-1 43090 - E4100 Piece Distance, Bearing 52.43mm #10-2 43091 - E4100 Piece Distance, Bearing 52.63mm #10-3 43092 - E4100 Piece Distance, Bearing 52.83mm These items do not supercede each other, they each are different lengths and (it is my belief) need to be matched to the strut housing and stub axle that is being installed. This may be where your tightness problem is occurring, since as I understnd it you are using distance pieces from one set of Strut housings in a different set of housings. Please do not take this as 100% gospel truth, but this is what I suspect the problem to be. Hopefully someone else with hands on experience can confirm, or clarify my understanding of the situation.

Yeah, everybody knows that they are NADS! :stupid:

Quack!!!!!

You might want to check our archives before deciding on a pre-made system from MSA. Many people have reported fitment problems with those systems. The system linked above doesn't have provision for the factory pre-muffler, so it doesn't really come close to a stock OEM system. A local quality muffler shop should be able to bend up a simple exhaust system using your stock one at a guide/pattern.

The bearings likely will loosen, after they bind up completely (but in a very catastrophic way). The bearings should be relatively free turning from the completion of the assembly process. The FSM indicates a rear wheel bearing preload of 3.9 inch/pounds.

David: I found this info on the IZCC mail list a while ago. It was provided by a guy named Kim Blough who owns Idaho Z Car. Hope it helps. "Finish the job by tightening the new axle nut in stages. Check for VERY free rotation of the axle between each stage of torque. If the axle becomes hard to turn, either the inner seal is rubbing on the companion flange, or the distance piece is too short and the very minuscule clearance between the ball bearings and the races has been compromised. (Used up) There are shims available to lengthen this part to allow full torque of the axle and the inner races/distance piece into one solid unit. Most of the time simply reusing the original spacer and shims will suffice. Premature bearing failure can result in a very short time if the axial side loading of these ball bearing type bearings is not proper. A properly torqued axle with proper length spacer installed will spin very freely, with only a minimal drag caused by the wiper surface of the inner and outer seals."

Or it could be that the motor has not yet rotated far enough to "activate" whatever internal mechanism causes the motor to continue to run until the wipers reach the "park" location once the switch has been turned off. Chris: The condition you describe has always been observed in the 240Z's that I've owned, even the one that was less than 2 years old when I bought it. As for accessing the cap that Enrique mentioned, you'd need to remove the black plastic "bag" that encases the motor to get to this cap. (BTW, good info about the adjustability of the park location, Enrique)

I suspect that there is another "sticky" label that would have been applied over that choke symbol, similar to what they did in the center sw area. Probably fell off sometime in the last 30 years. (guessing)

MikeW: I think Enriques pic shows a OEM JDM arrangement. The center pair of switches was (I believe) used to energize the side markers on one side OR the other of the car when parked at night. Kats or someone has explained (somewhere on the site) that this was required in Japan due to narrow streets or areas with poor lighting IIRC. Perhaps they were not required to have the seatbelt warning light that the Feds required here in US

Thanks for the 280Z console pics, Wayne Here are two pics of my spare "late" 240Z style console. Under the Logo plate (which has been removed) there is a "Factory" provided provision for a switch, warning light, or something to be mounted. I don't know what the factory intended for this location, but this is where I have seen fog lamp switches mounted here in the USA. FWIW, 26th-Z's (Chris') pic of toggle switches on the dash shows the arrangement on an "early" N.A. car when the cigar lighter was still on the console/fusebox cover area. On later N.A. cars, the cigar lighter would have been installed in the upper toggle switch location on the dash by the "factory".

ChrisA and I have 72 (series II) cars

Chris: That is where I thought it would go. I doubt that the wiring up under the dash will reach, but there was probably a short "pigtail" wiring harness that reached from the switch to the under dash wiring. Like for the Choke Lamp and seatbelt warning light. Probably you'll have to rig some wiring to the underdash connectors. I don't think N.A. Z's were ever delivered with fog lamps, unless an owner ordered them from an acessory catalog and had them installed by the dealer. The folks I knew that had fog lamps just bought generic parts store kits and wired them up themselves, not even knowing that there were hidden wires in the harnesses.