Bambikiller240

Sorry that you lost money on the wheels, Wayne. Like any tool, it is only as good as the data that is input. If the calculater is set up wrong, and gives a wrong cost, that would (I believe) be grounds for a winning bidder to back out of the sale. It's not the bidders fault that a seller F's it up anymore than it's the seller's fault if the buyer doesn't confirm costs before bidding to win. With the option to include a handling fee there is no need to "pump up" shipping costs by exagerating the size and weight, though it can be done. All I as a winning bidder care about is the bottomline shipping cost. If it's too high IMO (for whatever reason) I pass; if it's reasonable I bid. I will always hold sellers to the shipping that is quoted. I can't think of one reason not to do so. My experiences as seller of small items has been that the Shipping Calculator is quite accurate for USPS Priority Mail.

I think there is something wrong with the database. I tried to look up some threads that I participated in back in 2003, and I could only find 500 threads that I've partisipated in. i KNOW that with 4,000 posts I've partisipated in more than that.

Well good for you

ebay has had a nice little feature called "Shipping Calculator" for at least the past 6 months. Seller opts to include it in the auction (free of cost) and the bidder can enter his/her zip code to get a shipping cost quote based on USPS, UPS, or FED EX. Seller can even set it up to include a "handling fee" in the calculation. To not use this handy little tool, or state a fixed cost in an auction leaves the door wide open for a shipping cost rip off. Beware of people who choose not to use it, or state shipping costs.

or spray it with a clear coating and be done with it. (Polishing is overrated unless you have lots of time and nothing else to do) JMO

Stock '71 and '73 240Z's for North America came from the factory with all locks keyed the same. Only the earliest Z's came with two different keys (cut on one side)

Woodruff Keys.

Sent you a PM

Why? It was rebuilt 10+ years ago, still has zero miles on it, and doesn't run. Big gamble IMO as to whether it will ever run, and owner doesn't even value it enough to place a reserve on the auction.

Let's see now, your car has a Mack Speedo cable, and Heater valve, I've got a feeling the Bulldog Hood Ornament and Air Horn must have been on back order!

Here's the car for that LS1 conversion!

The pictures provided by PrOxLaMuS are great, but will only help if your 260Z is of the "LATE" type. 240Z's and EARLY 260Z's didn't have all that stuff, just a simple water control valve and 3 hoses.

Smilies gave it away for me.

Moyest Not sure how he missed the obvious sarcasm of your post. But I guess he did. PS I thought it was funny.

More Nissan world-wide parts "games".

That is the way my 73 and late 71 Z's were, and I suspect that my 72 was that way before the P.O. played around. Currently my Hatch has a different lock/key. All are two sided keys. The OEM Lock Set I bought friom Courtesy Nissan late last year has all locks keyed alike.

Disc, P/P, Flywheel, and Throw-out bearing arm & collar, & slave cylinder is all I am aware of that would need changing.

I have no experience with the Crane Hi-6, but have seen many people post that they have problems with the Tach when using it,until they get the adapter installed. If you choose not to get an adapter, how about a Pertronix Ignitor in your Euro Dizzy instead of points? Inexpensive, & reliable. Any Hi -Perf coil will help too. Just make sure you get one that matches how you have the car set up (ballast resistor still in the car, or no ballast resistor)

Your local full service auto parts store should be able to get you all the gaskets you'd need/want. They may have to order them from the warehouse, but it usually only takes a day or two to get them. Fel-Blow (Fel-Pro) is only one brand of gasket kit. Some folks like them, some don't. Keith is right on the steering rack bushings, it's far easier to replace them with the engine out. Same with the steering coupler disc.

While the engine bay is empty, take the opportunity to climb in there and CLEAN it thoroughly.

Glad that you got your parts Greg. Based on previous dealings with Chloe, I feel certain that there must be a valid reason for the delay in shipment. Legalities, illness, or something. Odd that there wasn't an invoice, or business card in the package as she was always careful to include those things. Maybe someone else sent your parts on her behalf? I wish Chloe would get in touch with us & let us know she's OK.

www.hybridz.org

On the page where you type in your post, scroll down a bit to where it says "Additional Options". In that area is a button that says "Manage Attachments", click that. A small window will open with a button that says "Browse" click that button. Another window opens to the files on your computer, select the photo file that you want to upload by double clicking. After that, the window to your files closes, and you then click on "Upload" button on the "Manage Attachments" window. When the upload is complete you can close that window and complete your post as you would normally, with the attachment included.

There are always alternatives, but many of them aren't worth a $hit. Sometimes people need a little dose graphic reality to wake them up from their foolish endevours. As far as I am concerned for most people there ISN"T an alternative to buying a new or used OEM part. Cuttng and grafting something onto the remnants of the original hose is a stop gap measure at best, and at worst, downright dangerous. Making a new one, like Will describes is fine if you have the skills and equipment (and are willing to sacrifice a new part to make the mold), but it isn't practical for *most* of us. Which is not to discourage Will from tackling the job, as if he is successful, many could benefit from his labors.

I've never tried to hide THAT!