SteveJ

Note - Vega, do not read any flames into this post. First, your post really should have been put on a new topic. While I can see how your post could loosely follow how the thread changed, it's moved far away from the origin post and therefore less likely to get a good response. Second, you will probably find more information and help over at hybridz when you want to do things like incorporate a GM ECU. This is more of a traditionalist site. Just make sure you search before posting there. They don't tolerate repetition very well. Good luck with your experimentation.

Wrong! A fusible link is usually about 4 gauges smaller than the wires it protects, but the insulation is designed not to burn up. In that way, it is similar to a glass fuse where the element blows, but the glass remains intact. You can buy a fusible link from auto parts stores, but the 240Z has a connector on it. You can get pre-made links from Banzai Motorworks. You can also buy the connectors from Vintange Connections and put them on an auto parts fusible link. Both businesses are run by stand-up guys. Frankly, I'd just spring for a couple from Banzai if you're worried about it.

Yeah, they can be bad about doing that. I've been lucky and caught it before it broke.

Common wisdom suggests replacing the alternator and regulator at the same time. Many, many years ago, I replaced the regulator without replacing the alternator. I didn't not experience any problems, though I eventually upgraded to a higher output, internally regulated alternator. If you want to confirm the regulator as the culprit, check the battery drain and unplug the regulator. If the current drops significantly, the charging system has malfunctioned.

Inspect the sockets and clean out corrosion. Use a voltmeter and check for voltage from the socket to the chasis. If you have voltage, check the continuity of your ground wire. Ensure you have a dual filament bulb.

You could have problems with corrosion in your fusebox. If it creates a hot spot, you can melt the solder in the fuse. I had that problem at one time, and I once saw the parking lights fuse glowing a bright orange. After that, I had to replace the fuse block because it melted down.

If you don't see any evidence around the sockets, pull the cover off of the steering column and inspect the wires around the combo switch. They can and WILL overheat over time as corrosion builds. This can lead to a breakdown in the insulation. If it is in contact with the steering column, it will short.

Do yourself a favor and download a copy of the FSM. (See my signature for a link.) On page BE-5 you'll find a wiring diagram. On the right headlight the red wire is the hot wire. On the left headlight, the red wire with the yellow stripe is hot. The dimmer switch basically changes your path to ground. The red with white stripe is the low beam, and the red with black stripe is the high beam. Since the problem shows itself when you operate the dimmer switch, that is the first place to look. It sounds like the switch is not adjusted properly, so when you change the switch position, it doesn't break the connection going to the high beam contact. It may require disassembly and adjustment. If you know how to use an ohmmeter, you can see if the contacts for the high beam and low beam have continuity when the switch is in the low beam position. Steve

Just another example of why people should strongly consider Dave's relay modifications...

Do I understand correctly that next year's convention is in Savannah? Has a date been set? I want to make sure I'm able to take vacation and go. Unfortunately, work got in the way this year.

The age of the belts in my cars was a huge factor in me looking to purchase replacement belts. Also, I don't know how robust the inertia locks are and whether or not they can be easily replaced/repaired. Steve

Search on here for my posts on WESCO. They have good products. I prefer what they call roadster style belts. They are easier to use than the kit MSA sells. WESCO also has the hardware included.

Fully automatic antennas usually have two positive wires. One is wired to a switched circuit, and the other has a constant 12VDC. The switched source is the one that signals when to raise/lower the antenna. It shouldn't be wired to the starter circuit. How old is your battery? What is the voltage when the car is off? If the voltage is dropping from the antenna going up, it might be enough to cause the solenoid not to engage. Also, corrosion in old wiring can amplify the problem. You could use a volt meter to check the voltage at the solenoid while starting the car. Report those readings back here. It will give us a better idea of what is going on. Do the diagnostics first before wasting money/effort to re-wire or swap out parts.

From what I've read (one source only), the blow characteristics on fuses can be different from fusible links. I haven't studied the curves to see how different they are. Also, with fusible links, the length plays a part in the blow characteristic in addition to the rating of the wire. As Jim pointed out, with the moulded case we can't just push the wires out. Given that, the maxifuse mod may be a better solution since there wouldn't be splices involved.

To be honest, I've never tried to take apart a fusible link holder. It shouldn't be too difficult with a reciprocating saw. There is probably a barb on the terminal that locks it into the holder. With a little work, you should be able to push it out.

First, don't forget to put the year of your car in your posts. There are some wiring variances between years. Second, your post doesn't make much sense from an electrical standpoint. A fusible link is a wire. It doesn't make sense that there would be a fusible link screwed to the fender wall since you typically don't want to break the ground on a circuit. That would lead me to guess that you're talking about the holder for the fusible links. (See the attached diagram.) If you are talking about the holder, I haven't tried to glue one back together. You could probably get a used one from Z Barn. Heck, you could also probably talk me into helping you swap it out. You might want to download a copy of the factory service manual. You can find a link to one in my signature. Steve

E, I stand corrected. The 73 automatic does have a relay, but it does not have an override button as described by the original poster in this thread. When Tommy said that he had the exact same problem, I was correct in saying it wasn't possible. Of course, you did make me have to get out my own wiring diagram so I could see it in better detail. I'm going to have to read up more on this to satisfy my curiosity.

Dave, let me know if you have any ZXP customers with a 73 in the Atlanta area. I have a clamp ammeter that I could use to look for likely suspects for a battery drain.

Your profile says you have a 73 240Z. By the way, put that information in your posts, such as in your signature. You'll get better responses that way. If you truly have a 73, then you don't have the same problem. The seatbelt interlock was only on the 74 260Z. I suggest you start a new thread and carefully & thoroughly describe the problem you're having with your car.

You can get covers from MSA, too.

That would be ridiculously easy to check with an oscilloscope. I have one that uses a computer for the display. It was less than $200. However, I don't have points in my 73. I got rid of them about 12 years ago.

If there are no cracks, splits, gaps or huge chunks missing, then there is a good possibility it's a cap. Look around the edges, such as the opening of the glove box. You can see where a cap sits on top of the original dash.

Esmit, by all means, share the name of the company. Do they take into account production variations?

Yeah, that's for the PCV. You could run it up to your air cleaner. Aren't the PCVs still available?

That hose looks like the smog pump hose. Where does the other end of it attach?