SteveJ

First, check the dwell on the points. As Mike wrote, 300 miles is too short of time for points to wear out. Second, consider using Rockauto for parts when possible. I have been very satisfied with them.

The recession was the final straw. The benefits to GM & Toyota had essentially been used up. NUMMI was originally producing Corollas & Prizms. GM was putting a California plant back into use. Toyota was getting a foothold in US production, and GM wanted to learn from the Toyota way. GM from what I read was never able to put the quality & production practices of Toyota in place at its other facilities. (Isn't that a big surprise?) The Prizm faded away in the 90s, so the only "GM" product made at the plant was the Pontiac Vibe. Since GM wasn't planning on moving any of the Pontiac lines into its "surviving" brands, it wasn't using the production capacity of the Fremont plant. Toyota has alternate facilities for its Corolla & Tundra lines, including what I think is an underutilized production facility in the South. What is the value in keeping a California plant open when you have spare capacity in a more industry-friendly region. IMHO, the recession only helped to drive the final nail into the coffin.

Does that mean I won't get a cookie after my 1,000th post? No fair!

I passed on re-webbing my 73 for two reasons. 1. I wanted the comfort of the upper part of the belt retracting. 2. I didn't trust the other components of the seatbelts due to age. For the 74, I just thought it would be easier to repeat what I had done before.

Have any of you received your Mitty tickets, yet? I ordered mine quite a while back, and I was told they would mail them out the end of last week.

That is part of why I decided to try the WESCO roadster style belts. They fit my definition of what you said better than the type belt MSA sells. The buckle strap is in a sleeve. The big reason why it works with the sleeve is because I opted for the hardware kit that WESCO sells that includes a floor bracket to facilitate mounting. The retractor mounts on the ceiling, and I can deal with that. It's not too different from the 260Z design in that respect.

Please do not take my comment as criticism of your prices. It's more of a lament of my lack of money to buy nice reproductions. I want to support your efforts. Meanwhile, I'll keep playing the lottery.

I love what you're coming up with. I just wish I could afford the prices.

On the other hand, while the VW van is iconic, the Chrysler minivans all but killed the station wagon as a product. They also drove the market and form factor. GM & Ford tried more of a truck version at first with their efforts. Both paled in sales comparison (and to most in performance & functionality). Toyota tried the mid engine approach for a while, but it didn't really make much of a mark in the marketplace. Today, all of the significant choices for minivans copy Chrysler's two box form factor. I think that's what sets it apart.

Am I mistaken, or is the 240Z in the picture the Franklin Mint Z (as in die cast model)? It just doesn't quite look right for a real car to me.

I had a chance to do some research after I got home, and that research says Arne is right about the blue & yellow not reflecting.

I seem to recall from something I read 20 or 30 years ago in the LA Times Auto section that it was possibly the numbers on the plates that reflected. The police would look for a lack of reflection as possible evidence of altered plates. If my memory is right, then the article advised against touching up the license plates. Of course, you could go by the adage, "It's not illegal if you don't get caught."

Oops, I just read the FAQ on Tag Dr. They don't do reflectorized paint. I think California Blue is reflectorized, isn't it?

This website may be of interest to you. Of course, it's not DIY.

Did you try contacting Courtesy Nissan? They keep a lot of parts around that nobody else does.

Pat, did you try to test the relay out of the car? You would do this by putting 12 volts across the coil to see if the contact closes. Also, what is the voltage at the terminals for the coil. If it is too low, the coil won't have enough pull to close the contact. However, it might be enough to sustain closure of the contact if you push the contact closed. A short would not likely harm the relay, unless the short is inside the coil. If you need more help, send me a PM with your phone number. Steve

Those are more likely. They both come up at Courtesy Nissan Parts. Neither are expensive, and Courtesy is usually reasonable on S&H charges.

Are you sure that is the correct part number? Courtesy Nissan and Nissanparts4u.com list that number as a gasket.

Just a minor alteration: "It looked sad, dirty and out of tune, so I think the poor little thing needs to come live with us." There, I think that makes it complete.

First, don't put higher rated fuses in just because you blew a fuse. You're feeding a fault. Second, check your bulb sockets for corrosion. Third carefully examine the wires in the steering column. You could be missing the insulation from one or more wires, or you could have a wire loose. For tracking down a short, disconnect the battery. Use an ohmmeter to look for low resistance between the positive side of the circuit and ground. The positive side of the circuit is between the positive terminal and the load. (In this case, all of the loads are lights.) It would help to take the bulbs out, too, so you're not reading continuity through the filament.

Dave, I know what you mean. I saw an ad for an 83 Turbo near me. I showed the wife. She said I'd have to get rid of one of the other Z cars first. I just couldn't do that. There's no way of getting another past her because she thought I'd sell the 73 after I got the 74. I WAS planning on doing that, but I changed my plans. Now she's on to me.

Thanks for the pictures, E. They help a lot.

I would appreciate that, E. I tried the grinding method and wasn't satisfied with the results. I just paid for a new set of strikers and would love to see if your fix would improve the door latching.

E, do you have any pictures of the part that is commonly missing?

So are you looking for honest critiques/feedback?