Gas tank sending unit replacement

[5thhorsemann]

Just got the new fuel sending unit for my 240Z. Looks kind of long. Do you need to drop the tank to get this rascal in or can it be finagled into the tank while it is in place?

Edited November 26, 2010 by 5thhorsemann

[SteveJ]

You'll have to drop the tank at least part of the way down. There are some vapor hoses you'll need to deal with as you drop the tank, too.

[spitz17]

5thhorsemann,

You have to empty the fuel in the tank, or at least until the level of fuel is below the sending unit opening.

Once you do so, align a screw driver or punch to the "teeth" of the locking plate of the old unit and lightly hammer the locking plate counter-clockwise out of place. Make sure you do not bend the locking plate at all, as the concaveness has a role in keeping the unit in place. Pull the old unit out, REPLACE THE O-RING (do not skip this), and then slide the new unit in and re-lock it. Also, on a side note, remember where the two wires going into the unit sit.

I'd recommend to replace both o-ring and locking plate if you do not mind spending the extra $5.00 or so from MSA.

Good luck, and remember to wear goggles... as you'll get tons of grime on your face.

Edited November 26, 2010 by spitz17

[5thhorsemann]

Grime I'm not worried about, the first thing I did when I got the car was to pressure wash the bottom as to assess the rust. It was Z-BART-TED (?) way back when, so I blasted all that stuff off, she is clean and pristeen underneath.

I have the lockring tool, so that isn't an issue. New lock ring and o-ring....CHECK. The rear electric fuek pump is not necessary any more and has since been removed, so theres no issue there. It is hard to tell if there is enough "head room" in the tank to swing the sender in and out while clearing the suspension and floor pan.

I managed to replace all the vapor/ vent lines without droping the tank, that was a pain in the a$$ and I'm not about to pull them back off on the underside. That said, droping the tank, even slightly, means the interrior panels and the expansion tank might need to be opened back up (much like the can of worms that they are)

I'm just hoping that I can pull this off like the 30 min. job that it is, instead of pulling the tank and spending half a day on my back.

[spitz17]

5thhorseman,

What is "Z-BART-TED"?

I can confirm, at least on a 70-72... you do not need to drop the tank. I did this, and I know it can be a <30 minute job. It took me longer because I was an idiot and did not empty the tank, nor seal the locking plate correctly. But I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.

[Mike B]

What is "Z-BART-TED"?

http://www.ziebart.com/protection/rust_protection/

[ajmcforester]

You can change it without moving the tank. If you need to drain the gas drain it all the way down and see what comes out. A little tip that keeps the rust out one quart of non-detergent straight weight oil in a half full tank and a short drive every oil change.

[5thhorsemann]

Drained the tank completly when I replaced all the vent plumbing, Flusned the tank using kerosine mixed with heating oil tank cleaner. Got almost nothing out of it. I think I'll be okay with the tank rite where it's at. Thanks guys!

[5thhorsemann]

A ten minut job! had to go for a test drive after, fill the tank, a home-run

[ajmcforester]

The unit is simple you maybe can fix the old one for a spare

[5thhorsemann]

Just finished the swap, took longer to jack the car up than to replace the sender.

How do you repair the sender/ get replacement reostat?

Edited November 28, 2010 by 5thhorsemann

[5thhorsemann]

I'm looking at this thing and I'm not seeing a rebuildable part, hook me up.