SteveJ

From what I've read (one source only), the blow characteristics on fuses can be different from fusible links. I haven't studied the curves to see how different they are. Also, with fusible links, the length plays a part in the blow characteristic in addition to the rating of the wire. As Jim pointed out, with the moulded case we can't just push the wires out. Given that, the maxifuse mod may be a better solution since there wouldn't be splices involved.

To be honest, I've never tried to take apart a fusible link holder. It shouldn't be too difficult with a reciprocating saw. There is probably a barb on the terminal that locks it into the holder. With a little work, you should be able to push it out.

First, don't forget to put the year of your car in your posts. There are some wiring variances between years. Second, your post doesn't make much sense from an electrical standpoint. A fusible link is a wire. It doesn't make sense that there would be a fusible link screwed to the fender wall since you typically don't want to break the ground on a circuit. That would lead me to guess that you're talking about the holder for the fusible links. (See the attached diagram.) If you are talking about the holder, I haven't tried to glue one back together. You could probably get a used one from Z Barn. Heck, you could also probably talk me into helping you swap it out. You might want to download a copy of the factory service manual. You can find a link to one in my signature. Steve

E, I stand corrected. The 73 automatic does have a relay, but it does not have an override button as described by the original poster in this thread. When Tommy said that he had the exact same problem, I was correct in saying it wasn't possible. Of course, you did make me have to get out my own wiring diagram so I could see it in better detail. I'm going to have to read up more on this to satisfy my curiosity.

Dave, let me know if you have any ZXP customers with a 73 in the Atlanta area. I have a clamp ammeter that I could use to look for likely suspects for a battery drain.

Your profile says you have a 73 240Z. By the way, put that information in your posts, such as in your signature. You'll get better responses that way. If you truly have a 73, then you don't have the same problem. The seatbelt interlock was only on the 74 260Z. I suggest you start a new thread and carefully & thoroughly describe the problem you're having with your car.

You can get covers from MSA, too.

That would be ridiculously easy to check with an oscilloscope. I have one that uses a computer for the display. It was less than $200. However, I don't have points in my 73. I got rid of them about 12 years ago.

If there are no cracks, splits, gaps or huge chunks missing, then there is a good possibility it's a cap. Look around the edges, such as the opening of the glove box. You can see where a cap sits on top of the original dash.

Esmit, by all means, share the name of the company. Do they take into account production variations?

Yeah, that's for the PCV. You could run it up to your air cleaner. Aren't the PCVs still available?

That hose looks like the smog pump hose. Where does the other end of it attach?

I am the one who wrote up that modification 10 years ago. Given the choice, I would use a plug and play option. There are just fewer things to go wrong. Also, Dave does support his product well.

Take the end of the spring and start rotating the spring to get the cable inside of the first coil. Keep rotating the spring until all of the coils are around the cable.

Well, Jeff put these in his profile: 1977 280z, 1979 280z. So the question might then become, "Which Z?" or "What is a 1979 280Z?" Jeff, you may want to look at the links in my signature to find factory service manuals for your cars. Also, as suggested, put the year and model car in your post.

Considering how many times this is asked, couldn't we choose one of the better threads and make it a sticky in the electrical section and help section?

Are you sure you didn't end up with a loose wire around the steering column or make a wrong connection there? That could cause a dead short.

My first thoughts are to check the bulb and socket. Verify the bulb is good, and that the socket isn't corroded. Also, check the voltage at the socket. With electrical troubleshooting, pick one end or the other, and work your way across. IMHO, it's easier to start at the bulb. If everything at the back is fine, then consider the switch. Also, don't forget about the plugs in the wiring harness. If you snagged the wire, you could have pulled it loose from the connector or lug, especially if the wire was corroded.

Take the light off, and spray the switch area while turning it on and off. More than likely, some metallic debris is shorting the switch contacts. The other possibility is that the switch is broken. New ones are available for under $40 if you can't fix it.

The retractor portion should go up above. The point at the buckle will act as a constriction, so if you mounted the retractor low, you wouldn't be able to lean forward.

That almost sounds like a VIN swap. That button is for a seatbelt interlock, and it was ONLY in the 260Z. Do the taillights on your "new" car look like the taillights on your 260Zs?

Okay, I'll bite. Why do you mention a 72 in your post, but you list a 74 in your signature? The 74 has a seatbelt interlock. Search for interlock and you should find a post I made about jumpering it out.

Jeremy, can you tell us what color wires are going into the red button? It doesn't sound stock for a 72. Also, if you look at the links in my signature, you should be able to download a copy of the FSM.

Here you go, Dustin. I didn't take pictures of the inboard side, but I did use WESCO's hardware that included a mounting bracket bent at a 90 degree angle. I haven't had any clearance problems. Steve

Have you tried Autogator? They aren't too far from you.