SteveJ

I have purchased from the seller in this auction. Delivery isn't fast, coming from Singapore, but if Black Dragon is higher, this is the way to go, IMHO.

I took the plunge and purchased LEDs to replace the exterior lights, except for the plate lights. So far I replaced all but the lights under the bumper. I'll probably get to those this weekend. I did check the current flow with the LEDs, and it is now 2.6A. I didn't measure the current before the switch, but I estimated it to be approximately 7.9A. (For the record, I was expecting about 2.9A at this point of changing out the lights.) I purchased all of the bulbs from Superbright LEDs. Here is what I selected for my 260Z Front side markers - 67-A9 Rear side markers - 67-R9 Rear stop/tail 1157-R12 Rear turn 1156-R12 Rear tail 67-R9 Front turn 1157-A12 Reverse lights 67-W9 License plate 67-W9 Of course, you need to make sure the electrical connections in your car are in good shape. Also, check the sockets of the side markers. They can and WILL get rusty. I have some replacements sitting in my garage. They will go on my car VERY soon.

Yeah, you sure aren't the first to do that. I saw that in a car that was owned by someone who used to come around here. I made a shunt to bypass the ammeter and run the car until he could get another one. I don't think he did that, though. As an alternative, you could replace the ammeter with a voltmeter. That would take makeing a permanent shut in the ammeter wiring and running wires to the voltmeter. You could just get the positive side from an unswitched source in the fusebox and run the negative to ground. If you choose to keep the ammeter, contact Roger at ZBarn. I'm sure he could dig up a good one for you. By the way, did you have the battery connected when you were messing around behind the dash?

You remove the originals. It might be a good idea to purchase the foam & webbing for the seats depending upon their condition.

Scott, if Dave Irwin will build you a relay harness for your 280Z, I would go that way.

You might want to email Mike. I'm sure he has used these on some of his restoration work.

If you have any questions or want to bounce ideas off of me, let me know. I use a lot of control relays in the designs I do at work, so I've built up a pretty good knowledge of them.

That means a 6 mm body.

1. The wire colors are listed on the FSM and in the diagram that Zed Head linked to. For the fuel pump and relay, I just found the fuel pump on the diagram (It's on the left of the diagram about 2/3rds of the way down.) and traced the positive wire back through the diagram. (Black is almost always ground unless it is a black wire with a colored stripe.) 2. Asking about a bunch of different wire colors/sizes isn't probably going to get you far. We don't have them memorized except for the odd color here and there. There are just too many wires to know them all. Also, we don't know if a previous owner hacked into the wire harness. If that is the case, we won't know what color wires were used. If you look at/print out the BE section of the FSM, you'll have pictures to match up to the components in your electrical system. That is one way to figure out what you have.

Sure it's okay, but if you have a typical S30, the issue isn't so much what type headlights you're using but how much voltage you're getting to your lights. You may want to consider installing relays into your headlight circuit. You may see people posting about the relay kit that Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain, sells through Motorsport Auto. IIRC, it wasn't designed to fit into a 280Z. Blackdragon also sells a generic kit. I purchased one for my 260z, but I'm not installing it until after I replace the relays with standard automotive relays and weatherproof the connections. Converting to relays will increase the voltage at the headlights and greatly improve the light output.

Has anybody run across good reproductions for the 260Z/280Z crowd?

That's what I was thinking, Sarah. However, that is a worst case scenario. I mentioned it to Eddie Radatz, and he said it could also just be a loud altenator or a water pump going out.

That last one is a mental image that I just didn't need. :sick:

Are you sure you didn't put too much torque on it with the broomstick when you were adjusting the tension?

Mike, Banzaii's owner, is a great Z man. I've had the opportunity to tour his shop, and it's incredible. IMHO, there isn't any need to hesitate about buying from him.

I bet your confidence is building, Jamie.

Yeah, white butcher paper can be your friend when you're taking apart switches. The springs and other small things can show up nicely on that.

Check the condition of the bulb sockets for the turn signals going to the tach housing. You make it sound like that is where the circuits are crossing. Until you diagnose what is up there, leave that unplugged, and examine the other points I listed earlier. While it's great to have the turn signal light indicators on the dash, it's not crucial in tracking down the other problems. If you have damaged connectors, you can find replacements at Vintage Connections.

I'm glad that fixed it for you. Did you use one of the diodes listed in the article I linked? If so, thank Carl Beck & son for hosting that article.

Beautiful car. Sorry I don't have a source for the FSM, but I just had to comment.

I was tempted to say that the PO may have used the wiper to carry power to the fuel pump because he couldn't figure out how to fix it properly, so he just found an ignition-switched source that he could easily turn off in an emergency. Addendum: I looked at the color 76 diagram and traced the fuel pump wiring. I am even more convinced that the PO couldn't figure out the fuel pump relay so he took 12VDC from wherever he could find it.

1. No, there aren't relays for the wiring unless a previous owner installed them, except I believe the fuel pump and the accessory relay. 2. You'll need to inspect connectors for damage. That means digging into the wiring in the steering column and dash. Also look for damaged wires, splices or wiring color changes. 3. Download a copy of the FSM so you can see the wiring drawings. There are several circuits you're trying to diagnose. Do you have the cover to your fuse box? If so that identifies the circuit. If not, look at the FSM. Then tell us what you have on each circuit. Please note the position of the ignition key (Off, Accessory, On) so we can tell whether or not the circuit should be energized. Once you look at the FSM, decide which circuit you want to tackle first and go one by one from one end to the other. If you don't have a multimeter, you should get one. You can't always tell the condition of a fuse via visual inspection. Being able to detect continuity can help you find shorts and breaks in the circuit, too.

Okay, I'll look at the wiring diagram again when I get home tonight.

Yes, you could have a bad connector. First, please clarify something for me. When you say you have continuity between GR & GB, is that with both ends of that section of harness disconnected? If so, anticipate having to replace connectors. Can you post pictures of the harness, especially around the connectors?

What is your end goal for a 240Z. Have you read up on them? I know there are plenty of books in English that cover the early Z cars, but I don't know if they were translated into Italian. If you have an end goal and a budget, people might be able to help guide you in the right direction. Frank280ZX, a member of the ZCar.com board, got to be friends with another member in the California who helped him with scouting and shipping. You could try to contact him and see what information he might be able to give you.