SteveJ

I'm having some issues, too, after I changed my master cylinder & booster. I couldn't get the fitting for the rear brakes to seal. I just ordered a new master cylinder with the hope that I haven't messed up the threads on the brake tube fitting.

Have you measured the voltage at the brake lights themselves? How did you test the switch? Here is how I suggest you test the switch: 1. Disconnect your battery negative. 2. Disconnect connector C-2. (You'll need to refer to the FSM BE section to find it.) 3. Put your multimeter on the lowest resistance scale (if it's not autoranging). 4. Touch your leads together firmly to see what they read without anything else. 5. Press the brake pedal and measure resistance across the switch. 6. Subtract the reading from step 4 from the reading in step 5. It should be less than 1 ohm. (I'm picky. Good isn't a number. ) Reasons for 8 volts: 1. Bad switch 2. Bad technique with the meter 3. Bad ground or poor grounding point selected when you measured 4. Bad meter Where did you see the wire turn to green/yellow? Are you sure it was green/yellow? Green/white is for the parking lights, and you could get confused with old/dirty wires. The brake light circuit is on BE-13. Detail on the stop switch is on BE-27.

Andreas, are you referring to Corning, California? I found a Joseph Patrick Burke in Corning, CA.

Good info. I suspect the folding wheel chocks started with the 77 model since the tool bins weren't easily accessible due to the changes made starting that model year.

Leon, if you ever venture out to Atlanta, I'll be more than happy to show you the flat tops working. Heck, they even did great in the summer. Did anybody else notice how clean the insulation is on the fuel lines? By the way, Carrie, I responded to your post over at Zdriver, but I think you'll find a lot more useful information on this site.

Interesting...There is more than one type of wheel chocks, too. I have two sets that do not fold flat. One set was in my 74. The other set I bought from eBay for my 73. Does anybody know when that changed?

I've seen good sets on eBay from time to time. I don't recall lug nuts being part of the package, though.

Zach, don't try to move quickly on parts just because they seem like a good deal. You'll end up spending more money in the long run. Read through the search results here: https://www.google.com/search?q=backspace+offset+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe= There is information in those posts that will give you a good education on wheel selection, including lug spacing, offset and backspace. IMHO bigger wheels don't necessarily look better on our cars. My personal plans for new wheels target the 16x7 range.

The hazard switch won't affect the headlights. You might have had a loose connection that you corrected as you tracked down the turn signal issues.

You'll get better answers if you look for and post the part number that should be on the transmission.

Okay so you found the problem with the turn signals. Contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain. He can probably quote you about working on the hazard switch. Did you locate the issue with the headlights?

I replaced the brake master cylinder and brake booster today. I had to replace them about 8 years ago, too. Back then, I had to have my wife help me by holding the booster in place. I eventually had to break things loose to adjust the rod as I left it too long. This time, I did it all solo and faster. A bungee cord did the trick for holding the brake booster in place until I could get it fastened on the inside. I even got the clevis pin through the hole in only a couple of tries, and by some miracle, the hole for the cotter pin was aligned just right for me, too. I also tried bleaching an old washer bottle today. I needed more hydrogen peroxide, though. By the way, Sun detergent has an oxygen based bleach that is the same as OxiClean but a lot cheaper.

Just be sure to check all of your coolant hoses and all of the other soft lines, too. A coolant hose going out is a pain. A brake line going out is a REAL headache.

Well, I think it worked some. I think I needed more H2O2 and sunlight. The Sun OXYgen sure produced a lot of bubbles. The washer bottle kept filling up with air.

Make sure the heater is on when burping. Air can get trapped in the heater core.

To burp your cooling system, run it for a while with the radiator cap off. Elevate the nose of the car slightly, just a few degrees will work. I suggest doing this outside, weather permitting. As the car comes up to temperature, the thermostat will open, and the coolant will circulate. Any air trapped in the system will get to the radiator. Since the radiator is the highest point, the air should exit, but it is also likely to push some coolant out with it. It also helps to tap the radiator with a rubber mallet during the process to break loose any bubbles trapped in the radiator.

This may work for you: Amazon.com: LE Permanent Car Tire Metal Paint Pen Marker White: Camera & Photo

I am trying the oxygen bleaching now. Before I did that, I removed some of the grime inside the bottle with coffee grounds. I'll do my writeup with plenty of pictures when I'm done.

They are independent of each other, but either one will contribute to overheating. Some people have looped the connection after having a problem with the heater hose or heater core. Burping is necessary any time you replace the coolant or any hose.

1. When you lose a hose, typically you will get air in the cooling system. If you don't burp the system, the air will cause you to overheat. 2. If you lose a hose going to the heater core, you will need to block off both hoses. Looping the system will cause the hot coolant to recirculate.

Do you have any pictures of what you did? I know I would be interested in seeing what to do.

What is so interesting about the JDM 260Z not having the fat bumpers? The heavier bumpers came from US regulations that cars be able to withstand a 5 MPH hit with no damage. By the way, the regulations were relaxed years ago, mandating only a 2.5 MPH hit. If Nissan didn't need to add a bunch of weight for their domestic cars, why should they?

My first suggestion: Stop throwing parts at the problem! It sounds like it is about time to invest in some diagnostic tools or take the car to a mechanic. Next, download copies of the factory service manual and fuel injection bible. You can find them here: XenonS130 - S130 Reference. Read through the diagnostics and trouble shooting guides. See if you see any conditions that are the same or similar to yours. Once you have done some real troubleshooting, come back with any ideas you might have. It will improve the chances that someone will give you a real solution instead of continuing on the shotgun approach. Some suggested tools for better diagnostics: Noid light for checking injectors Inductive trigger timing light (Not only can you use it to set your timing, since the trigger is inductive, it can indicate whether or not you're getting a spark.) Good quality multimeter (While a Harbor Freight cheap meter can work (I have a couple that I'm willing to burn up for current measurements.), if you need precise measurements, a quality meter, such as a Fluke, is the way to go.) Inline fuel pressure gauge Having said all of that, pay attention to the diagnostics for the ECU and AFM.

To be clear, Chas was describing a voltage drop where there shouldn't be one. When cranking the engine, you expect to see some voltage drop just from the starter's draw on the battery.

Thank you, Chas. I wanted to create a site that was informative and entertaining. I know that many people do not have a good understanding of the electrical systems in their cars, and I hope I make it easier for people to diagnose and fix their electrical systems. To borrow a phrase from an acquaintance, "It's not rocket surgery."