SteveJ

The starter is not energized via the ignition relay. You could have a solenoid going south. Measure the voltage at the solenoid while someone else turns the key. If voltage is good and the solenoid doesn't kick in, then replace at least the solenoid if not the whole starter. If the voltage fluctuates, it could be another sign of a bad solenoid. If the voltage is always low, it could be a wiring issue or ignition switch issue. You could check by having the positive wire off of the solenoid and measuring the voltage. If it's still low, it's a wiring issue or ignition switch issue.

So in other words, they are not readily available in the US.

Ian, Courtesy Nissan lists the part as NLA, Blackdragon has the part greyed out in their drawing, and I couldn't find the part in the MSA catalog (though I didn't cross reference against my old paper catalogs). Where did you find it? Steve

There isn't much to interpret about the VIN other than what Bart said. I haven't been tracking VINs too closely myself. Carl Beck or Alan may be able to provide some insight on late 260Z production. You definitely have a "late" 260Z, though. You'll find it has quite a few parts more in common with the 280Z than the "early" 260Z.

Superbrightleds has an excellent selection of LEDs. You control the brightness the same way you do with incandescent bulbs.

I was having problems with the driver side door on my 260Z. I used a tech tip Enrique Scanlon posted several years ago. You can read about it here: Fixing the Door Latch | Fiddling With Z Cars

Does the VIN start with RLS?

In addition to checking your grounds, check your fusible links for corrosion. as they get corroded they will heat up, limiting current flow. Also, please put the year of your car in your post. While you have it in your profile, it helps to have it in the post so we have a better idea of the differences in your car.

You may want to try going to a community college class for welding before you buy one. That way you learn how to weld AND you get to try out at least one welder before you make a decision. You can probably also get opinions from the instructor as well. FWIW, if you are wanting to weld on your Z car, don't try the Harbor Freight model.

According to their website, the drums are cast iron. Do you have a Power Slot part number for aluminum drums?

He will certainly be missed here. About a month ago, I fixed the striker on the door of my 260Z following directions he posted several years ago. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to thank him for sharing the tip. He won't be forgotten here anytime soon.

I didn't go to ZNationals. Did they say they were using the ZCCA criteria? To be honest, I don't get worried about judging. If you look at the 73 at the top of my blog, it took home a 3rd place trophy looking exactly the way it did. It does help to have only 4 cars in the class and have the 4th be a rust bucket. If you would like, I can send a message to Chad at Z1 to see what I can dig up.

Oily? Are you sure your oil rings are offset enough?

I know I have one, but I haven't tested it. I won't sell an electrical component I haven't tested.

Alan, I don't take it as rude, but without the specific knowledge you cite, it is easy to misunderstand what the Haynes manual intended to communicate. As usual, your impecible research/historical knowledge reveals more to the group, and I appreciate the full description.

Okay, I probably won't have a chance to look until tomorrow night. I am flying home tonight, and I don't think my wife would be thrilled for me to be playing with car parts when I first get back.

Alan, would care to elaborate? There is no "U" in the US VINs, and I do not currently have access to my Haynes manual to read the VIN explanation in context.

I'm in the Forsyth county part of Gainesville. Do you have ready access to a lift? You might have two new best friends who live in Forsyth county.

By the way, where in Georgia are you?

Actually, it's more like the Haynes manual is wrong.

Then track down user Bruce Palmer here. Tell him you want the ZTherapy video on tuning SU carburetors.

You might try colortune to see how rich you're running. You could also try welding a bung into your exhaust for an oxygen sensor. Where did you source the carburetors from? And by "a typical two-carb Datsun setup" are you referring to SU style carburetors?

Thanks, Arne. I can see it now.

It's easy to verify. If the VIN is from America, it was not originally a 5 speed.

Mike, your link isn't working for me, and I didn't see anything new in the Articles forums.