SteveJ

In addition to checking your grounds, check your fusible links for corrosion. as they get corroded they will heat up, limiting current flow. Also, please put the year of your car in your post. While you have it in your profile, it helps to have it in the post so we have a better idea of the differences in your car.

You may want to try going to a community college class for welding before you buy one. That way you learn how to weld AND you get to try out at least one welder before you make a decision. You can probably also get opinions from the instructor as well. FWIW, if you are wanting to weld on your Z car, don't try the Harbor Freight model.

According to their website, the drums are cast iron. Do you have a Power Slot part number for aluminum drums?

He will certainly be missed here. About a month ago, I fixed the striker on the door of my 260Z following directions he posted several years ago. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to thank him for sharing the tip. He won't be forgotten here anytime soon.

I didn't go to ZNationals. Did they say they were using the ZCCA criteria? To be honest, I don't get worried about judging. If you look at the 73 at the top of my blog, it took home a 3rd place trophy looking exactly the way it did. It does help to have only 4 cars in the class and have the 4th be a rust bucket. If you would like, I can send a message to Chad at Z1 to see what I can dig up.

Oily? Are you sure your oil rings are offset enough?

I know I have one, but I haven't tested it. I won't sell an electrical component I haven't tested.

Alan, I don't take it as rude, but without the specific knowledge you cite, it is easy to misunderstand what the Haynes manual intended to communicate. As usual, your impecible research/historical knowledge reveals more to the group, and I appreciate the full description.

Okay, I probably won't have a chance to look until tomorrow night. I am flying home tonight, and I don't think my wife would be thrilled for me to be playing with car parts when I first get back.

Alan, would care to elaborate? There is no "U" in the US VINs, and I do not currently have access to my Haynes manual to read the VIN explanation in context.

I'm in the Forsyth county part of Gainesville. Do you have ready access to a lift? You might have two new best friends who live in Forsyth county.

By the way, where in Georgia are you?

Actually, it's more like the Haynes manual is wrong.

Then track down user Bruce Palmer here. Tell him you want the ZTherapy video on tuning SU carburetors.

You might try colortune to see how rich you're running. You could also try welding a bung into your exhaust for an oxygen sensor. Where did you source the carburetors from? And by "a typical two-carb Datsun setup" are you referring to SU style carburetors?

Thanks, Arne. I can see it now.

It's easy to verify. If the VIN is from America, it was not originally a 5 speed.

Mike, your link isn't working for me, and I didn't see anything new in the Articles forums.

Look at this write up I did: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars Otherwise, contact Dave to see about getting your turnsignal rebuilt. If you don't like that choice or he can't rebuild it, check back with me. I may have some suitable turn signals soon. Edit: Come to think about it, I may have some already, though I would want to clean & test before selling. Send me a PM.

So you made it over here from ZDriver. Was I not fast enough responding to you over there?

I didn't have a chance to go to Caffeine & Octane today, so I decided to create a blog post from my pictures taken at the 2010 Mitty. Pete Brock was grand marshall, and plenty of BRE tribute cars were on hand as was the Baja Z lovingly restored by Carl Beck. Enjoy! The Mitty 2010 | Fiddling With Z Cars

One word about upgrading the alternator with the 260Z to an internally regulated alternator. (Okay, it's really a few sentences...) If you want to keep your electric fuel pump you'll need to get an oil pressure switch or install a diode between the alternator and the battery. I would have to do some research to tell you what wire. One of the electric pump relays is energized straight off the alternatore (before the voltage regulator). The other relay is energized off of the starter circuit. The voltage regulator keeps the battery from draining back toward the alternator and fuel pump relay coil. Going to an internally regulated alternator will allow the battery to energize the fuel pump relay coil even with the car off.

Dremel to cut the slots in it. Described here: 240z Ignition Switch- Removing Mounting Screws - ZCAR.COM - Datsun : 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX, 350Z, 370Z : Nissan.

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation. If you have a valve on it, it is not a vacuum leak. If you plug it up, you will allow pressure to build in your crankcase where you do not want pressure.

Just for giggles, post another that lets us see the distributor and spark plug wires.