SteveJ

I think Wade means brake cleaner and not brake fluid. I would stick with starting fluid, myself, or gas from a propane torch. As for throwing parts at it, on the electrical side, it can be difficult to detect cracks in the distributor cap. It's easy and economical to replace. You can check the resistance of the plug wires to see if they are still in spec. An inductive timing light can give you an indication of a lack of spark, too. Now, how did you test all of the things you tested? Please give us details. I've wasted too many hours with junior engineers, chasing down problems because they didn't test something right. Therefore, I assume very little about test results.

The file name, created the day after the show, says 72. That's all I have to go on at this point, Carl, so I could have put down the wrong year. All I do remember for sure is talking to Steve Richardson about it.

It's good to hear that you're still in one piece, despite the injuries. I hope it's worth repairing.

I dug up some pictures I took 15 years ago at the Dallas Autorama. Digital cameras sure have improved since then... Dallas Autorama 1998 | Fiddling With Z Cars So, can any current ZCOT members identify people/cars from the pictures? Edit: When I originally posted this, I forgot that I had a couple of pictures of a 72 that Courtesy Nissan was selling as part of the refresh program. Those pictures are part of the blog post now, too.

The 2013 Mitty will be at Road Atlanta April 26-28. It's a great car event with lots of historic cars racing, including a few 240Zs. Get tickets at Advance Ticket Sales for The Mitty 2013. You can see pictures from the 2010 Mitty on my blog. I'll be creating posts for the other years soon, too.

Assuming you have 12 VDC to chassis on both side of the fuse, there could be corrosion or poor connection at connector C2 or the lead on the switch. A PO could have hacked the wiring, too. Pull the fuse and measure resistance between the fuse box and the switch. What about the other diagnostics I suggested?

Yeah, that sounds like an early 72 to me. "Hey, we have a few production parts left from last year." "Okay, throw them into the bin. We'll use them."

If it's an early 72, it could have 71 seats if that was the available stock.

Zcarsource has them for only $315.

The original wheels were steel with hubcaps. You consider 17" tiny? Wow, how perceptions change across the generations...

I haven't seen many 240Zs or 260Zs with clean insulation on the fuel lines, except for cars whose owners show them a lot. The black zip ties on the insulation indicates that someone probably replaced some fuel lines. I usually just slip the insulation off after getting one end of the hose loose and leave the zip ties in place. Hopefully that indicates that the previous owner cared to keep things clean and working. As for the muffler, just get one that fits.

I don't believe there is a difference.

I'm having some issues, too, after I changed my master cylinder & booster. I couldn't get the fitting for the rear brakes to seal. I just ordered a new master cylinder with the hope that I haven't messed up the threads on the brake tube fitting.

Have you measured the voltage at the brake lights themselves? How did you test the switch? Here is how I suggest you test the switch: 1. Disconnect your battery negative. 2. Disconnect connector C-2. (You'll need to refer to the FSM BE section to find it.) 3. Put your multimeter on the lowest resistance scale (if it's not autoranging). 4. Touch your leads together firmly to see what they read without anything else. 5. Press the brake pedal and measure resistance across the switch. 6. Subtract the reading from step 4 from the reading in step 5. It should be less than 1 ohm. (I'm picky. Good isn't a number. ) Reasons for 8 volts: 1. Bad switch 2. Bad technique with the meter 3. Bad ground or poor grounding point selected when you measured 4. Bad meter Where did you see the wire turn to green/yellow? Are you sure it was green/yellow? Green/white is for the parking lights, and you could get confused with old/dirty wires. The brake light circuit is on BE-13. Detail on the stop switch is on BE-27.

Andreas, are you referring to Corning, California? I found a Joseph Patrick Burke in Corning, CA.

Good info. I suspect the folding wheel chocks started with the 77 model since the tool bins weren't easily accessible due to the changes made starting that model year.

Leon, if you ever venture out to Atlanta, I'll be more than happy to show you the flat tops working. Heck, they even did great in the summer. Did anybody else notice how clean the insulation is on the fuel lines? By the way, Carrie, I responded to your post over at Zdriver, but I think you'll find a lot more useful information on this site.

Interesting...There is more than one type of wheel chocks, too. I have two sets that do not fold flat. One set was in my 74. The other set I bought from eBay for my 73. Does anybody know when that changed?

I've seen good sets on eBay from time to time. I don't recall lug nuts being part of the package, though.

Zach, don't try to move quickly on parts just because they seem like a good deal. You'll end up spending more money in the long run. Read through the search results here: https://www.google.com/search?q=backspace+offset+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe= There is information in those posts that will give you a good education on wheel selection, including lug spacing, offset and backspace. IMHO bigger wheels don't necessarily look better on our cars. My personal plans for new wheels target the 16x7 range.

The hazard switch won't affect the headlights. You might have had a loose connection that you corrected as you tracked down the turn signal issues.

You'll get better answers if you look for and post the part number that should be on the transmission.

Okay so you found the problem with the turn signals. Contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain. He can probably quote you about working on the hazard switch. Did you locate the issue with the headlights?

I replaced the brake master cylinder and brake booster today. I had to replace them about 8 years ago, too. Back then, I had to have my wife help me by holding the booster in place. I eventually had to break things loose to adjust the rod as I left it too long. This time, I did it all solo and faster. A bungee cord did the trick for holding the brake booster in place until I could get it fastened on the inside. I even got the clevis pin through the hole in only a couple of tries, and by some miracle, the hole for the cotter pin was aligned just right for me, too. I also tried bleaching an old washer bottle today. I needed more hydrogen peroxide, though. By the way, Sun detergent has an oxygen based bleach that is the same as OxiClean but a lot cheaper.

Just be sure to check all of your coolant hoses and all of the other soft lines, too. A coolant hose going out is a pain. A brake line going out is a REAL headache.