SteveJ

To end the tangent, the OP has a 77. The constant power is just for the memory, so it will not draw much power. As for the draw of the head unit, look in the owner's manual for the unit and find its rated draw. Remember that fusing should be rated to protect the wires, not the components. If the draw of the head unit is too much, add a relay to one of the accessory circuits. (See Relays Simplified | Fiddling With Z Cars for information on connecting the relay.) For the switched power, you can then tap off the battery as Tomohawk suggested, run that wire to an inline fuse and through the relay to the head unit. Be sure the select the appropriate gauge wire. If you don't know how, ask.

Cigarette lighter

Please give all of the wire colors. I don't care about pin numbers. I cannot trace a pin number to a wire easily.

I did the same as Guy, but I used vaseline to hold the O-ring in place. Just make sure your fuel level is low enough before you start so you don't dump fuel on the ground. Even jacking up the front end would help for this.

Do me a favor. Post the wire colors that you jumpered together. That way I can look at the wiring diagrams and figure out if you did it right.

If you look at the wiring diagram, you'll see some differences between the auto and manual. You might be able to trace some of the different wires.

The fuel pump is easy to find. Just look at the gas tank behind the passenger side rear wheel. If you choose to add one, make sure it is a low flow pump. Carburetors don't need 30 PSI.

It took some effort to figure it out. I used the wiring diagrams from the 73, 75, & 81, the 75 and 81 FSMs, and the old writeup on zhome.com as references.

Conventional wisdom says it's an improvement. I can't tell you how much. As for the fuel pump relay issue, the power for the relay coil comes off the yellow wire. Somewhere on here, someone posted the wiring for the Nissan change. If I could find it, I could tell you where you need to look for wire. Meanwhile, are you sure you have an electric fuel pump?

That would be correct.

No, no, no. Don't rewire the fuel pump relay to the ignition. You want it to cut off if the engine stalls. That means using a diode in the right place or using an oil pressure switch.

I really have to meet you sometime.

Okay, let's move away from pin numbers and focus on wire colors. It took me a while, but I think I have it figured out. The White & Yellow wires should be jumpered together. The Green & White/Black wires should be jumpered together. The Black wire doesn't need to be jumpered. The Green/Red wire doesn't need to be jumpered. See if that works for you.

Okay, not the parts I need then. Thanks for letting me know.

I left a comment on the thread asking him where the junkyard was.

I saw this at The Truth About Cars: Junkyard Find: 1973 Datsun 240Z | The Truth About Cars. Does anybody know what junkyards Murilee Martin visits? If it hasn't already been picked clean, there are a lot of good parts to be had.

Are you sure you bought an internally regulated alternator?

The last time I tried (many, many years ago) they said no extra discounts on sale items.

I didn't see the wiring harness. Is it all of the wiring harness? Engine harness? Dash harness? Body harness? Also are those S30 eschuteons? If so, I'm interested.

Now you have me looking for 12VDC clockworks that I could put into my old clock.

So are you staying in Georgia, or are you moving elsewhere?

Was the conversion done like on this page? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

3-in-1 is also available in places like Wal-Mart and Ace Hardware. It's easy to get, and it works just fine.

Color? Can you tell us where you see it going to on either end?

Okay, now I remember your car. It's hard to recognize from the avatar. We met when you were fueling up your Z a Krogers at Freedom Plaza. Glad to see you made it to this forum, too.