SteveJ

Okay, so now do a little searching on how to set up SU carburetors. Also consider buying the videos from http://www.Ztherapy.com. Site member Bruce Palmer is the salesman for them. Come on, Bruce . This is your cue to jump in!

I was wrong. My 73 has springs, not webbing. According to the parts catalog, there were several seats, but one of the change dates appears to be 12/71, so during the 72 model year.

I do believe that is incorrect. I will check on my 73 if/when I get home.

Boy, this thread ended up in the crapper.

What is the fuel pressure on the rail?

13 mm box end wrench...13 mm pass-through socket. Those tend to be able to fit best on my 260Z. It's slow going, but as mentioned in post #2, just leave the seatbacks on and pull the seat out the door. Keep track of the spacers, too.

What year Z? Does it have carburetors or fuel injection? Has someone done a turbo swap?

He does not have a hot startup problem. That is why I suggested he follow up on what others suggested about the AAR. Unfortunately, Nathan hasn't indicated whether or not he as tried the diagnostics in the FSM.

I wasn't thinking in that direction per se, but I did start my own blog a month ago, publicizing it in my signature and on FB. I plan to use it to capture what I've learned about the 240Z & 260Z electrical systems and to document with pictures car related experiences. I have linked to Phil's tech tips and other sites I think are useful, too. The advantage is that it is there for people all over the world to find. I don't have to hold to any publishing schedule, and I can promote it when and how I see fit. In the end, I can see websites like that providing a lot more to the community than a quarterly magazine that goes out of business every 3 to 5 years.

Both of my Z cars have a gasket on the back.

Let's see... Z Car Magazine Z Car and Classic Datsun Magazine I forgot what came next... Nissan Sport Magazine Let's face it. The internet community makes the magazine business difficult, especially for one focused on a small population. Heck, I cancelled my C&D Magazine subscription because I didn't like their automatic renewal policy.

I've never had any issues with z-connexion, but just be aware that many times you're paying a premium for parts still available from Nissan.

I bought the ones from Thailand. The lenses look fine. The problem comes from the front marker lights. The back side of the lights are exposed to the elements. The stock Z light have a gasket that protects the back side. The rear markers do not suffer from that problem.

Yes, but you'll need at least the fuel gauge sender from the 75.

I have a set of those. I actually need them for my 260Z since one is rusting, but I'm not sure I am skilled enough to adapt them.

No, it is not normal.

Somehow I don't think this link will help you too much, but just in case someone in the states has the same idea... http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tumbler I would check eBay, Amazon, etc.

The gauges, vents, etc., stay put. IIRC, the only thing I pulled out of my 73 to put in the cap was the plate between the dash and windshield.

Yes, but be sure to degrease them thoroughly first. I was thinking of trying the tumbler some time and following up with naval jelly to make sure I got out all of the rust hiding in the threads.

Yes, that would be a good way of breaking the circuit down. Don't be surprised if a previous owner used the red/blue wire to do something like provide constant power for a stereo.

The dome light should get its positive from a red/blue wire. The fuse for this wire should be the next to last fuse in the right hand column in the fusebox. (Just to make sure you have the right fuse.) Be sure to check voltage at the fusebox on both sides of the fuse. To check continuity of the wire, here is what I suggest: 1. Remove the fuse from the fusebox. 2. Unplug the dome light from the wiring harness. This will ensure that it's not a bad dome light causing your problems. 3. Measure resistance with an ohmmeter. Don't rely on the buzzer for continuity. It will sound even if the resistance is higher than it should be. 4. Go from the inside clip for the dome light fuseholder to the red/blue wire that the dome light plugged into. The resistance should be only around 0.3 ohms. Make sure you get a copy of the 71 FSM supplement at XenonS30.com if you don't have a paper copy of the FSM. Look at page 30. You'll see the body harness connections. There is a 6 pin connector on that drawing. You'll find it near the passenger kick panel. Make sure it is not corroded and is plugged in securely. Let us know what you find out.

Johnathan, contact Eddie Radatz. He has been working on Z cars for a long time in Kennesaw and probably is familiar with body shops closer to you.

You might see if a radiator shop would repair it.

Most VIN systems are set up only for 17 digit VINs. After all, cars did not exist before 1981.

Yet another reason this website needs a like button. I guess I'll just put in an alien.