SteveJ

You might not want to make the video private. By the way, have you bothered to look through the troubleshooting in the FSM?

I think you're referring to Z Nationals, sponsored by Z1 Motorsports.

It could be a bad flasher, a bad fuse, dirty contacts in the switch, a bad hazard switch (It interrupts power to the turn signals.). The turn signal circuit is completely independent of the headlight circuit other than the mechanical lever, so headlight functionality is irrelevant. Do you or a friend know how to use a multimeter? (If yes, I can give you diagnostics.) Did you check the fuse with a meter or just look at it? Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM? it has a wiring diagram.

Hmm, cheaper, just as effective, and I have two Z cars with old springs. This is something I'll have to remember.

Site member Pat Carr has the "competition hood scoop". IIRC correctly, he still has the flattop carburetors, too.

Go to xenons30.com/reference and find the fuel injection bible and FSM for your car. I'm not an expert on 280Z fuel injection, but I would start by looking at the cold start injector. The FSM and fuel injection bible will give you the proper diagnostics to determine whether or not your cold starting system is working properly.

I drove the 260Z to work and to the Georgia Z Club meeting. It's a nice change of pace from the daily driver.

Don't you think that the Honda wiper motor was a critical detail for your first post. The relay is just for parking. You pass through low speed before going to off, hence the reason to use that wire to the relay. Here is the issue as I see it. The Nissan and Honda wiper motors are wired to be grounded through the combo switch. The wires that are grounded dictate the speed. The wiper motor does not get its feed through the switch. So you would have to bench test and re-engineer the wiring to get it to work with the positive going through the switch. OR you could make sure you are getting the signal wires from the wiper motor back to the combo switch (as I described above), just as it was designed to do. You would have to provide a 12VDC+ fused source to the wiper motor. From what I've read, "Painless" is false advertising.

I believe the member siteunseen lives near Anniston or Gadsden.

Those are sections in the factory service manual (FSM). You should download a copy.

This one's native habitat seems to be Craigslist. I've seen it on there for a couple of years.

The combo switch connects the ground for the wiper motor. So, if you connect 12VDC+ to one of the positions on the switch and turn on the switch, you will always blow a fuse. Now for the rest, I assume you have a pre-73 wiper motor and no amplifier. Take a look at the 72 wiper circuit. Note that the 12VDC+ goes from the fusebox to the wiper motor via the blue/red wire at the B terminal. The L, M, and H terminals are connected to ground at the combo switch. The L & M terminals connect to ground at position 1. The M & H terminals connect to ground at position 2. So if I don't miss my guess (using the 78 wiring diagram for the combo switch)... The yellow/green on the combo switch should go to the M terminal. The yellow/black on the combo switch should go to the L terminal. The blue/yellow on the combo switch should go to the H terminal. The washer is trickier since it is wired completely different from the 70-72 as opposed to the 73-78 wiring.

Read the FA and RA sections of the FSM. That should have most/all of the info you need.

I bought some Falken ZE-912s for the 240Z today. Now I just have to get the brake booster & master replaced, change out the coolant, inspect the hoses, and look for any other problems...

Rockauto has several models to choose from, and all are less than $50.

At what RPM? Even if you jumper out the external regulator, you will only get about 12VDC at idle, no matter how long you let it run. Get a copy of the 75 FSM from Xenons30. Look at the EE section of the manual to see how the alternator/regulator combination should behave. If you are sure you have an internally regulated alternator, jumper out the external regulator. If was important to note what year Z you had because earlier Z cars require a diode to prevent feedback when shutting down the car. Yours should not.

They do have touring laps at the Mitty...

To piggy back on what Wade was saying, test the output of the charging system by seeing how many volts it is producing. (Did you do that and find you have 12 VDC at the battery with the car running?) The 70-77 S30s had an external voltage regulator. The alternator for these cars was rated at 50 Amps. The 78 was the first with an internally regulated alternator rated at 60 Amps. If you do have an external regulator with the internally regulated alternator, you will have issues. You have left out a critical piece of information for us to help you. What year is your car? That will dictate what you need to try.

I have a picture of Tom's car in the pits here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2108980021195&l=69826b8ef5 Here is the blue Z: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2108980821215&l=b4a81483c8 Turn 10 is not a good place to find out your brakes are going. Are you planning on being at the 2013 Mitty?

I'm not sure that Dave's setup would work in a 240K.

Merry Christmas, Phil. Now get that Z inside a garage, PRONTO!

Was the resistor warm to the touch? What color wires are connected to the resistor? There are only three reasons I can think of for the resistor to smoke. 1. It's a bad resistor. 2. It was wired wrong. 3. There is too much voltage going to it. You might want to check the voltage at the battery when you have the car running.

I added another blog post that I hope will help others to understand how relays work and how they should be wired into the car. Relays Simplified

Actually, that is on most dash covers, too.

Of course, Phil. I put one into the 260Z. I think I needed to use a more powerful LED than I put in, though.