SteveJ

Did you want to find something like this? https://www.etrailer.com/Work-Lights/Peterson/M126C.html Or this? https://speedindustry.com/led-door-courtesy-light-pair-for-toyota-86-gt86-subaru-brz

They were installed in Japan, but the wiring is there in your car, just like for the fog lights. I think the NOS supply of step lights was exhausted a few years back.

It is a challenge to get a static document like a wiring diagram to match production changes. The wiring diagrams we have in the FSMs were probably created before the first car rolled off the assembly line for that year. Today we are spoiled by being able to open up a CAD program and fix an error. I don't want to think about what it was like when you had to create these with vellum. I have seen significant differences elsewhere. In the 73 diagrams, it shows several extra wires for the intermittent wiper amplifier. That was confusing. In the 75 manual, it shows the seatbelt interlock relay that was eliminated just prior to the start of the 75 MY production. Remember that the North American 260Z had an extended production year as Nissan was preparing to roll out the 280Z. During that timeframe, the US government walked back the requirement for the seat belt interlock requirements, and I'm sure Nissan yanked that abomination out of the wiring as soon as possible. Then there are errors that crept in, like the representation of the ignition relay for the 280Z that shows two wires going to the same place.

Just remember to run the third terminal to ground.

Here's their website: https://s30.world/fuel-tanks

Here is the thread:

Usually it is the park/tail fuse that gets hot. Corrosion in the bulb sockets can cause the fuse to heat up. Make sure they are clean. If the sockets are clean, switch the bulbs for the parking lights to LEDs. You may want to consider changing all of the gauge bulbs to LEDs, too. Search around this site. I have posted an LED list within the last year. I want to say I was updating it in October.

What year is your Z? Different years have different wiring on the headlight switch. While Dave Irwin's harnesses work great, I do the headlight relays so only someone digging around in the car can find them. Which fuse is getting hot? There are 3 separate fuses involved with the headlights and parking lights. What do you mean when you say, "I am trying to figure out how the parking light harness is installed."? The positive side of the circuit comes off the fuse box and goes up to the steering column. That's where the switch is for the circuit.

I'm not dead, yet. But, no, I don't know the specific term.

How light do you want? https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-fidanza-lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-240z-260z-280z-280zx https://zcardepot.com/products/fidanza-light-weight-aluminum-flywheel-240z-260z-280z-280zx?_pos=1&_sid=360548d86&_ss=r And don't forget MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/product/5258/price-drop-kameari-chromoly-performance-street-flywheel-70-83-zzx https://www.thezstore.com/product/3991/high-performance-flywheel-70-83-z-zx-coupe-non-turbo By the way, from what I read the 240mm flywheels have a different bolt pattern. From the ZCarDepot site: New stock replacement flywheel for Datsun 280Z and 280ZX 1975-1983, 2+2 only or Turbo. The 2+2 clutch cover is slightly larger so it has a different bolt pattern. This is a good upgarde from a 2-seater clutch as the 2+2 clutch is larger, but you will need a clutch disk and pressure plate for a 2+2 to work. 2+2= 240mm clutch 2-seater= 225mm clutch

I used this to remove the throw out bearing: https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63610.html Fortunately for me, I bought it with a 20% off coupon. As you may have seen in the video I linked, the guy used a socket and drove out the bearing. I think I may have used a socket at one point, too. Yep, I did use a socket. I drove it out with an impact gun. Then I drove it the rest of the way out with a mallet. Note: you may want to put it on a block of wood when doing that to prevent damage to the collar.

Here's a video of the throw out bearing replacement in a 260Z. Start watching about a minute in. Why do you want to re-use the throw out bearing? Put a new one on.

You didn't ask.

Yep, I made that mistake before, and then I learned of the warning being posted in various places.

I took the 260Z for a drive today. When I stopped for gas, I could smell coolant, though I couldn't find a smoking gun. When I got home, I looked closer, and it appears I may not have tightened some hose clamps when I replaced the water pump. I'm letting the car cool down enough so I can work on the lower clamp on the lower radiator hose.

I couldn't find it on the 72 wiring diagram, so I'm going to assume it was done the same was as is shown in the 73 wiring diagram. The 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat switch and to the driver seat belt switch. If there is a passenger (or heavy object) in the seat, the 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat belt switch. If the belt is not latched, the 12VDC+ will go to the neutral switch. Whenever the transmission is in neutral, the 12VDC+ will go to the seat belt warning lamp.

My diet is more like this these days.

I stepped on a talking scale, and it said, "One at at time!"

Yep, I decided to start the "Stop Putting It in Your Damn Mouth!" diet about a month ago, and I'm down 20 lbs. Getting rid of sugar can do that for you. Now I just have to exercise more. I haven't been working on my Zs lately, but I did put a new stereo in my wagon. Does that count? Anyway, welcome back to the living, John. I hope you have a long stay.

That is not a diode. It is a capacitor referred to as a condenser. That is on internally and externally regulated alternators. It was incorporated to reduce electrical noise for the radio. If you have an older stereo, keep it. If you have a newer stereo, you may not need it.

I think it may be a change in business priorities. I met Steve Richardson over 25 years ago. I believed he was the manager of the parts department & Z enthusiast, and that was the hey day of buying Z car parts from them. I noticed the inventory of unique parts faded after he left. Without a champion in the parts department to support the older cars, it can be a tough sell to continue the effort.

We can hope that temporarily means temporarily. Meanwhile there is still Nissanpartsdeal.com and Nissanparts.cc. You can also try https://www.lynchburgnissan.com/parts/center.htm#parts-lead-form

The difference is where the positive terminal is located.

The compatibility charts are designed for stock replacement. They don't account for things like using a hotter or colder plug. Amazon gives the incompatibility warning when I look for H4 headlight housings for a Z car. However, I can assure you that H4 housings worked in all of the Z cars I have installed them in.

It is a PITA to remove the speedo with a dash cap. You may have to trim the cap with a dremel to get it out the front. I wired up Speedhut gauges in a 280 after the owner mounted them. The issue is that you still need to get the old gauge out. Then you have to decide how far you want to take replacing gauges since some of the ancillary features like the high beam indicator and brake idiot light are in different gauges IIRC. Still I wouldn't discourage the use of Speedhut gauges if you know what you're getting into.