SteveJ

My fix was not a drop-in replacement. I dug through my collection of springs to find one that could work. It doesn't take too much tension to keep the car from locking automatically when the doors close. The change in the door lock was in 77. The 75 and 76 door locks operate like the early Zs.

Probably causes of no voltage at the green wire are 1. Bad fuse (3rd down on the left side) 2. Disconnected hazard switch 3. Dirty contacts/bad hazard switch Here's a guide on the early hazard switch. Ironically, I have not done one on the 73 despite the fact that I have an extra lying about somewhere in the garage.

I believe the part is NLA. ZCarSource has them for $230, so used isn't a viable option for you. The small tension spring that keeps the door from locking itself does break. It's not too difficult to replace it. The time consuming part is in taking the door apart to get to the door lock.

Yes, the spring can be replaced. I have done it in my 260Z. Your neighbor found all of the problems I was describing. The door lock needed to be cleaned & lubed, and a new spring needs to go in to prevent the "auto-locking". I have a door lock on lying on the garage floor. I'm working late, but I might be able to remember to take a photo of it.

If you carefully read the write up at the link I posted, it gives diagnostics on tracing out the circuit. There are also articles on the blog on the turn signal switch and hazard light switch.

Are you talking about re-wiring your car to move those relays elsewhere?

Those are relays, not resistors, and they aren't that bulky compared to standard automotive relays.

If you are worried about a single wire on the turn signal switch side, the green wire on the switch goes to a white wire. The individual wires on the combo switch side that I can recall off the top of my head: White/red - incoming headlights Red - goes to fuse box for headlights Black - Ground (10 or 12 AWG) The wiper wires, parking light wires, and horn wires should be in a 9 pin connector IIRC. The wires for the key buzzer are probably one green and one black (14 or 16 AWG). As Pete said, use the wiring diagram to match things up.

Read over this, do some diagnostics, and tell us what you find. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

By the way, unless something changed, Mike only accepts checks as payment. Don't let that stop you, though. I've never had a problem ordering anything from him.

I believe Randy Jaffe is planning on shipping his BRE tribute car out there.

Click on the thread above.

Do you have the proper wiring harness? If so, the colors should match up nicely.

Even without all of the badges, I think it looks nicer than either of my Z cars, and you'll get to drive around in something unique, yet familiar. That's a double-win in my book.

Looking sweet.

I got a voicemail from Philip. All is well.

Yes, that was Philip, aka Blue. I sent him an email last night. I'll try texting him, too.

Ron is doing well. He sold his 240Z and is focusing on his roadster.

IMHO it's no big deal to tear them apart. I did it without watching the video, though I had a more knowledgeable person to keep me on track.

Stuck floats. This causes the carburetors to overfill, and it's coming out the vent pipes and into the air cleaner. They could be stuck from the gas turning to varnish. If you're not familiar with tearing down SUs, you might want to consider contacting Bruce Palmer at Z Therapy for the Just SUs video.

Arnie, what part of Georgia are you in?

You can source them on Amazon or eBay. There is a lot more variety than 5 years ago. For the corner markers, the issue tends to be the shoulder at the top of the socket. The side markers aren't that wide at that point.

Conventional wisdom says to match the lens color.

It would help to know the year of your car. It makes a difference.

I have a scissor lift in my garage. Do you think the jacking plates would work with lifting at 4 points? I envision the front being raised on the thick part of the frame rails while the rear would be raised wherever the jacking plates are welded on.