SteveJ

Curtis, Mr. Nix is just up the way in SC. I say we road trip to visit him after the floodwaters have receded. I'd like to take a look at the linkage just out of curiosity. What do you say, Steve? Do you allow miscreants into your garage?

Curtis, These search results may be helpful: https://www.google.com/search?q=Jaguar+SU+datsun&oq=Jaguar+SU+datsun&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.8735j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

Ebay reviews aren't an accurate indicator of quality. Neither are anecdotal accounts. However, in threads where Al Allen has posted, people have raised questions on the quality of products they purchased from him. He has responded with silence. That in of itself would make me hesitate to buy from him. Also, there is the curious case that he has changed the name of his business several times. Al, if you are reading this, is there a reasonable explanation for that?

Non-standard relays. If one goes bad, good luck finding a replacement. It might be plug and play for a 240Z. It's definitely not for a 260Z or 280Z. I would just spend the extra money on Dave Irwin's design since it is SPECIFIC for a 240Z (or 260Z/280Z if you work with him).

Losing 2 volts is a significant drop. (http://www.headlightservices.com/Wiring.html has a graph for reference.) The drop is probably coming from the combo switch and all of the connectors between the battery, headlight, and ground. Any poor contact acts as a resistance. Resistance in serial drops voltage. Unless you or a previous owner installed relays, THERE ARE NO RELAYS. (I'm not sure who "they" are, either.) The FSM is perfectly clear how the wires run. The 74-78 manuals are great for breaking down the circuits in the BE section. You need to know how to read an electrical diagram to understand. Now, if you want to install relays, there are ways to do it. Probably the easiest for you would be to contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain via a PM. He can tell you what you need to do for him to make a relay set that will work for your car. (His kits are plug and play for the 240Z but require customization for the 260Z and 280Z.)

The nice thing is that the back is held on by screws, facilitating dissection...I mean...curiosity. Here's a link to the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-Inline-Dimmer-Strips-Black/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443466233&sr=1-8&keywords=pwm+dimmer

I looked at the wiring diagram for the 74. I do believe you're right that I may have a problem. The dash harness splice that goes off to the parking lights appears to be downstream of the dash lights. I did notice this one little oddity when I was scanning the wiring diagram: Well, the Janglish is what I noticed today. Another interesting thing is that the lamp in the glove box is powered off the dash light circuit. I discovered that a couple of months back when I put an LED bulb in the glove box lamp socket.

The PWMs that I ordered are 2 in and 2 out. I was thinking that the path to ground from the dimmer would be the negative in. The wire from the dash lights to the dimmer would be the negative out. The combo switch would be the positive in, and the wire going to the positive side of the dash lights would be the positive out.

I couldn't resist. I bought a couple of cheap PWMs via Amazon. Dammit, Bruce. You're going to get me in the doghouse because every time I see you experimenting, it makes me want to spend money to experiment on my own. It's all YOUR fault.

Posted on the wrong thread... All I can say is... What do you expect with a bunch of volunteer judges?

Many LEDs need PWM instead of pots for brightness control.

Fixed

I was told that Randy Pobst visited with some of my fellow GZC members at a Caffeine and Octane event earlier this year. I had a Datsun flag flying behind my car. It helps the Z crowd find us.

PM sent.

So, is the owner of this car on the board? https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/~/media/Images/Articles/2015/September/Elkhart%20Lake%20(27).ashx

Ethanol free gas is available in lots of places, including a couple of gas stations that are on my way to most of the places I go to. Look up http://www.pure-gas.org. There are even stations selling it in California...just not anywhere close to you.

You should have come down to God's country when I suggested it to you, Philip.

I won't be surprised if it's not a fuel delivery issue. I'll see if I can visit the car in person (in auto?) and verify.

What carburetors are you running? Will it start right back up? How long does it run? What ignition are you running? Does it still have both fuel pumps? I can't live that far away from you. I'm in NE Forsyth County, less than a mile from Lake Lanier.

If you're not using it as a daily driver, you might want to invite me over next weekend.

During a garage cleaning, I took the gaskets that seal the filter out of 3 73/74 air cleaners. Most were still in good shape. For the gasket along the edge of the air cleaner, I used some rubber rope from McMaster Carr.

Look at the FSM to make sure you get the correct rating for the link. I keep spares from Nissan in my glovebox.

https://www.google.com/search?q=fusible+link&oq=fusible+link&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.2207j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

I heard back from the Amazon vendor who sold the 1157 sockets. They are out of stock but will inform me when they get more. I'll let everybody know.

I emailed the seller via Amazon to see if they might have more in a different listing. There is also this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161422959685?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's two 1156 and 2 1157 sockets.