SteveJ

I have 16x7 wheels on my car. I know a guy running 15x8s, though I don't know if it has an offset.

If you really want to find it, you probably should post the name of your "friend" and the VIN. Otherwise a brown 78 is pretty darn generic.

If you need the part numbers, just buy the parts fiche CD from this site. There is also CarPartsManual.com. What concerns me is that parts that I believe are NLA are still showing up as available when I search.

More ZCon 2016 info: http://zcon.org/

I have never used them: http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/

Well, the Ontario Z Car website says 8/2-8/6. http://ontariozcar.com/ I sent a message to Mauricio Gomez to confirm - And he immediately replied that those are the correct dates.

Here's a link that shows one that I made: http://www.zcar.com/forum/2379714-post3.html

I have made a few of these. I don't think $60 is that high considering the cost of parts and labor to wire the base. I think I was charging $45 shipped in the US.

Jim, The article left out the ceremonial apologizing to the turkey and pig before they are slaughtered for the feast.

A friend reinforced his urethane air dam to prevent flexing too much. Some flex is good. It will keep the air dam from getting beaten up.

You had a couple of extra characters in the link. http://www.ztherapy.com/technical_stuff/spotterguides/zcar/240spotter.htm

That link gives a 404 error.

Maybe here: http://autoplicity.com/2768432-fuel-pump-spacer But I wouldn't be too confident. Maybe you guys should come over, and help me search my garage. I may have one lying about.

Curtis, Mr. Nix is just up the way in SC. I say we road trip to visit him after the floodwaters have receded. I'd like to take a look at the linkage just out of curiosity. What do you say, Steve? Do you allow miscreants into your garage?

Curtis, These search results may be helpful: https://www.google.com/search?q=Jaguar+SU+datsun&oq=Jaguar+SU+datsun&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.8735j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

Ebay reviews aren't an accurate indicator of quality. Neither are anecdotal accounts. However, in threads where Al Allen has posted, people have raised questions on the quality of products they purchased from him. He has responded with silence. That in of itself would make me hesitate to buy from him. Also, there is the curious case that he has changed the name of his business several times. Al, if you are reading this, is there a reasonable explanation for that?

Non-standard relays. If one goes bad, good luck finding a replacement. It might be plug and play for a 240Z. It's definitely not for a 260Z or 280Z. I would just spend the extra money on Dave Irwin's design since it is SPECIFIC for a 240Z (or 260Z/280Z if you work with him).

Losing 2 volts is a significant drop. (http://www.headlightservices.com/Wiring.html has a graph for reference.) The drop is probably coming from the combo switch and all of the connectors between the battery, headlight, and ground. Any poor contact acts as a resistance. Resistance in serial drops voltage. Unless you or a previous owner installed relays, THERE ARE NO RELAYS. (I'm not sure who "they" are, either.) The FSM is perfectly clear how the wires run. The 74-78 manuals are great for breaking down the circuits in the BE section. You need to know how to read an electrical diagram to understand. Now, if you want to install relays, there are ways to do it. Probably the easiest for you would be to contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain via a PM. He can tell you what you need to do for him to make a relay set that will work for your car. (His kits are plug and play for the 240Z but require customization for the 260Z and 280Z.)

The nice thing is that the back is held on by screws, facilitating dissection...I mean...curiosity. Here's a link to the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-Inline-Dimmer-Strips-Black/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443466233&sr=1-8&keywords=pwm+dimmer

I looked at the wiring diagram for the 74. I do believe you're right that I may have a problem. The dash harness splice that goes off to the parking lights appears to be downstream of the dash lights. I did notice this one little oddity when I was scanning the wiring diagram: Well, the Janglish is what I noticed today. Another interesting thing is that the lamp in the glove box is powered off the dash light circuit. I discovered that a couple of months back when I put an LED bulb in the glove box lamp socket.

The PWMs that I ordered are 2 in and 2 out. I was thinking that the path to ground from the dimmer would be the negative in. The wire from the dash lights to the dimmer would be the negative out. The combo switch would be the positive in, and the wire going to the positive side of the dash lights would be the positive out.

I couldn't resist. I bought a couple of cheap PWMs via Amazon. Dammit, Bruce. You're going to get me in the doghouse because every time I see you experimenting, it makes me want to spend money to experiment on my own. It's all YOUR fault.

Posted on the wrong thread... All I can say is... What do you expect with a bunch of volunteer judges?

Many LEDs need PWM instead of pots for brightness control.

Fixed