SteveJ

Weber downdraft carburetors...they were commonly swapped in on 73s and 74s, especially in California because the Webers were CARB legal.

Let me re-phrase: You'd have to change the dash and center console, and I don't know what modifications that would entail.

No. I looked into that about 10 years ago.

Dot.

Mike - With adding the scissor lift in my garage earlier this year, I am close to having one at my house.

It might have been the clutch slipping.

Gosh, I almost thought it was a spam post. Phillip, you need to post here more often.

I have many parts link on my blog. The address is in my signature.

Just be prepared to drill into the headlight buckets with that kit. Here's what you'll have to do. 1. Drill 2 holes into one bucket. I would suggest the right bucket. 2. Drill 1 hole into the other bucket. 3. Disconnect the wires from the 9003 sockets (male & female) that are in the kit. (Mark them first.) 4. Thread the wires into the buckets and replace the ends. 5. Plug the male into the socket in the right bucket. Plug the headlights into the new sockets. 6. Mount the relays. 7. Connect the power. You may need an extension by what the site says. 8. Hope that you never blow the one fuse in the kit. That will take out both lights, high and low beam. I'd suggest carrying extra fuses if you buy this kit.

1. They have changed the interface, but it still works fine for me. 2. Your question marks might be changing if you have your keyboard set to Canadian instead of American.

There are 3 types of S30 center consoles that I am aware of. 1. 70-71 2. 72-73 3. 74-78 Within the 3rd type, I'm lumping in the 260Z consoles without a lid since they are completely interchangeable. Having said that, I do not see any similarities between types 2 & 3. The 2+2 has a different part number for the center console than the coupe, though it changes to the same part number for the last of the 78s.

I have a dash sitting around with the rheostat in it. The knob needs to be replaced. I'll check to see if it's good.

The battery was already down once. I'm not sure how old it is. It may be nearing the end of it's useful life.

I took the Z out for a nice drive through North Georgia today as part of the Georgia Z Club Gumball Rally. Including my car, there were 3 260Zs that showed up today. On the way back, the wife and I stopped at an abandoned gas station to take some quick photos.

How long have you owned the car? It wouldn't have been difficult for a previous owner to connect the two wires together and bypass the rheostat if it went bad.

It's looking pretty good there.

Sorry, Jai. I can't remember if I saw a sticker when I had it out. If you do take it out, be sure to disconnect the battery first.

It's definitely not the cold start valve. That is disconnected.

You'd probably need the Chevy transmission or some sort of bell-housing adapter. The biggest pain is to get the computer and fuel injection running right. There are probably some stand-alone systems that would work. It's a lot of work. What are you up for? Are you good with fabrication?

Can you provide a closer picture of the area?

I'm sorry your car got hit, Jai. Vans do not like Z cars. My 240Z was hit by a van 18 years ago. My car was parked at a gas pump and the driver cut the corner too much.

A great way to prevent that from happening is to install LED bulbs for the parking lights. My 260Z draws just over 1 A with just the parking lights on now. It also gives you a opportunity to examine the bulb sockets and look for corrosion in them.

To give more details, Dave's (MSA's) kit is plug and play for the 240Z. It uses the same connectors. I've yet to see anybody complaining about it. I bought the Blackdragon Auto kit. It wasn't worth the money. Also, it used non-standard relays. If one goes bad, good luck finding a drop-in replacement.

Someone has plenty of optimism.

My pleasure, sir.