Yarb

Wish I had a motor to look at right now. Hopefully someone will chime in.

So when you changed that out. Did you put the new cap on first and remove one old wire from the original cap and replace them piece by piece to the new cap with the new cable corresponding cylinder systematically. The reason I ask is you have two completed caps and wires in the picture. From the pics I can not tell if you are on the correct lugs. Still don’t see the differences in the caps from the pics provided. Puzzled on my end. Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

Ryan, this could be the main culprit of your initial issues. Not to say this will be the total answer with other issues you described. When I read the post a light bulb went off immediately.

Go down to Nissan and get new plugs first. The fill plug is NLA from Nissan. The magnetic drain 32103-u840B is available. Gasket 38320-N3111 is available. Just picked mine up.

That’s a great deal IMO for someone restoring an early Z.

The cap should be identical to your original that was removed IMO.

Have had great result with Amsoil 75-90 for the diff. Just a pain to get it easily.

@SteveJI think you mentioned in an earlier post of a new flasher that’s available that a few folks have tried weather they are using standard bulbs or LED.

I’ve had a couple of the Remy starters that had issues right out of the box. Went to the gear reduction and like it a lot.

Wonder where my memory was thinking 3 wires on the driver side. Falling apart I guess😂😂

I need to ask my friends on the forum about my reply of a two or three wire. What does the FSM show? My manual unfortunately is at the shop.

The driver side door switch has a three wire connection. Passenger has two. Could be the switch in the door bulk head, or possible connection issue. @SteveJ might have a suggestion

Research… Please google the model and it should show what’s required. Dancing around here when we need to nail this down.

What are the specifications on the model you have. Ohm rating is critical

Just wondering if he got it seated correctly when the cable was changed. Actually on both ends now that I think about it. Start from the bottom end first.

@patcon, you’re thinking the drive gear in the trans might have an issue?

This date is awesome!! My birthday day so I always celebrate by spending time with my Z and of course buy her a gift!!😀

It’s a drive gear via the cable. No electrical involved. Reach your hand up there and disconnect it. The cable is slotted where it goes into the back of the housing. You may not have it seated properly.

Hey Cliff there’s a red tag on the thermotime/temp sub harness. I believe it signifies between the two sensors so you don’t get them backwards. My harness is out and not going to be used any longer so I can’t reference it on the car. Any clues from the Librarian?

With that reading you have you probably have a lot of dirty connections. You will probably find plenty of green corrosion. Corrosion is impedance and that will throw your readings way off causing the system to go crazy🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Please read the specifications for the system and get another coil. We are trying to help. The coil is the heart of the system for spark. Do some research and you’ll begin to understand the theory of operation.

Probably going to have to contact the guy on FB market Place directly.

If it was an automatic at one time there is a trans kick down bracket above the gas pedal and you will not have a bump stop on the firewall where the clutch pedal depresses. My 78 conversion proved this and there is extra wiring in trans tunnel.

Do yourself a favor and look at the spec requirements from pertronics and get yourself a new coil. Just my oppinion.

Beautiful car Jim