Yarb

Ok,thanks. Wasn’t there another company out in Texas?

Wonder if they could make me one. I think these folks are in Texas. Guess I could give them a call. Thanks @SteveJ

Yes Sir

Also saw where there is a manufacturer that has the drier attached to the condenser. Hoped that would be a cleaner look.

Want to throw this out to the forum. Spoke with another member here that’s very familiar with these systems and recommended using copper until a flex point is needed. Want to hear from you guys and experience adding a vintage air or other aftermarket system. At the moment I have a clean slate on moving forward in the engine bay. All of the 280z brackets/ hardware is gone. Thanks and welcome any advice.

What color is your car? Is that a Range Rover paint code. Looks very similar to what I’m respraying my car with. Engine bay is done. Replacing all the lines and upgrading the wiring before I drop the new motor in.

Details please Sir. Sourced, How the fan shroud fits etc…. thanks

Some sort of rubber conditioner. Not Armoral. Do some research and you will find something that conditions rubber.

@the_tool_manI have a relatively new Bosch FPR mated up to my 78 fuel rail with rebuilt injectors if you’re interested. The run time is less than 10 hours. Brought my car back to factory specs and decided to go a different route. The system was removed when I sent the engine to Datsun Spirit. If your interested send me a PM.

I tell ya if I had to do it all over again and had a factory starter/alternator that went south I’d definitely look for someone to rebuild it. The quality we are getting these days is beyond questionable.

$650 That’s insane!!! What a deal

🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Need to dig around to find where that goes. Should be easy to find being red. Most professional audio companies use yellow 12 gauge wire for direct 12V supply to a bridge.

Thanks for the Captains blessing!,,,

Is the red cable coming off the starter going to audio equipment in the car? If so disconnect that until you get this figured out and move on from there.

Was the starter and and alternator failing at that point? The reason I ask is what’s available today is not Mitsubishi. Mostly Chinese junk. Many threads here relating to multiple defective parts right out of the box. Most folks now have it tested before they leave the store for that reason. Please let us know what you bought and where. The starter from the pic doesn’t look like it was a rebuilt original. @stevej has posts out there on how to take voltage measurements on the charging system. It’s pretty in-depth and worth the effort.

Might just be more than one variable here. Give us a history of what you changed when and why. What was the first symptom back in time that involved changing parts.

Very Nice my friend! Love to see a shop that does the panel painting.

Wrong post

Well, that throws me way off on my vintage air setup. I assumed that the refrigeration lines were located on the drivers side. Guess I need to go ahead and order my system. Originally I was going to go with the factory line location entry on the firewall.

It’s out there, saw it a couple of weeks ago somewhere. Let me backtrack a little. Will let you know. Hopefully others will chime in.

Peace of mind goes along way.

@Captain Obviouscan’t I at least get credit for 24hrs!!😂😂😂

Fantastic, start with the spark!! Cheap fix and good for the long haul.

From that pic it looks like it may be a bit shorter than the Z. Pretty cool.