w3wilkes

Nice car and welcome!

Got to love matching numbers! ?

Site, The biggest issue I found with the LED headlights is the way Datsun did the wiring. Since LED's are diodes they only allow electricity to flow in one direction. Rather than the center post being a common ground, the center post is hot and the switching is done between the 2 posts that are ground in the Datsun world. Here's a thread where I asked Dave about his harness and how it's wired. The thread also has the headlights I ended up going with. Because I've been lazy and the lights are working I haven't taken the anti flicker block out yet, but according to Dave the harness puts the ground on post 3 where it typically is outside the Datsun 240z world.

The seal on mine is in the valve cover. Car is 12/70 date.

After talking to James at MSA I went with their stuff. The rear bearings are Nissan OEM the fronts are Koyo.

I did the ITG air filter and ran all the vents to the air cleaner like the original configuration.

Did a quick search and this came up... Looks like Koyo and Timken may be same same nowadays. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/koyo-bearings-usa-llc-formed-following-jtekt-acquisition-of-timken-division-80706827.html

From what I get on their website http://watanabe.polyhedron.io/ The F8's sound like they're front wheel drive maybe. the A's are aluminum and the B's are magnesium.

Thank you!

Thanks!

@Joseph@TheZStore Comment

Anyone know the quality / brand of the MSA wheel bearings? Their price seems reasonable comparatively. Figured I'd do these too since I'm doing struts and bushings.

If you're going to re-upholster with the Interior Innovations leather (which I have and I'm very pleased), You should also replace the foam; https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2691 I have a thread on a couple of things here; I replaced my series 1 seats with 77 seats so I could have the seat flip forward, the handle is way easier to adjust seatback than the series 1 knob. I also prefer the seat bottom springs rather than the straps under the foam on the early seats.

Dr, There just happens to be a recent discussion over in the Help Me section. Wilkes

For the braided hose for the tank vents I followed WoodWorkerB's directions; http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

From this picture it looks like you already have headers and the air ports have bolts in them? If I remember correctly back in the mid 70's MSA had headers with the ports in addition to "comp" headers without the ports with a warning that they may not be legal in your state. If those are headers, are they 6 to 1 or 3 to 2 with a "Y" connector and do you have 2.5" exhaust? As for heat shield it looks like ZCarDepot has them; https://zcardepot.com/products/carburetor-manifold-heat-shield-stainless-240z

I've removed my mechanical pump and have gone electric at the tank. When cold I apply full choke, turn on the key and let the pump run for a few seconds until I hear a slight change in the pump sound which I think is when the system is fully "charged" with fuel. Then holding gas peddle to the floor it always takes 5 to 10 seconds of cranking before it comes to life. Once it fires up I can reduce choke to almost nothing and by the time the oil pressure comes up I can eliminate the choke. When the car is warm I just bump the key and it starts right up. On my '73 it was about the same story as my current early '71. I had the full dealer stuff on the '73 to address vapor lock so it had both electric and mechanical pump.

I'm guessing that for about the price of the FAST system you could go with rebuilt SU's from Ztherapy which would work with the big cam for sure.

Here's pretty much the same picture with stuff removed. A couple of comments... I have the 6 to 1 ceramic coated headers so no air injection ports on the exhaust manifold. you'll need to plug those... or go the header route. The pipe on the air cleaner that has the hose to the pump will need to be plugged or else you'll have an unfiltered air passage to the carbs. What you see in the position of the air pump is my A/C compressor.

From the looks of your engine bay it looks like it has all the dealer mods (the electric fuel pump is part of those dealer mods) attempting to eliminate the vapor locking issue (I think ceramic headers could also help with reducing the under hood temp). Are you staying stock or do you plan on any mods like air injection delete, this would happen with the ceramic headers.

I drove a '73 with flat tops for about 20 years until it rusted to death. I found the flat tops to be very reliable and required little to no attention. Once tuned they will just keep going.

The resonator is a 24" Magnaflow; https://www.magnaflow.com/products/10426-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-round-centercenter-straight-through-performance-muffler And this is the muffler, also Magnaflow; https://www.magnaflow.com/products/13216-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-x-9-oval-centeroffset-xl-multi-chamber-performance-muffler

My electric pump install is on like the 3rd page in this thread; There's a ton of good info all through the above referenced thread. The wiring for electric fuel pump was included in the factory harness. There's no need to add additional wiring other than the short jumper loop at the console to power up the existing harness. It turns the pump on when the car is in the run/start positions only. There's no relays to add, just a method for fuel cutoff incase of an accident. And here's a link to the cutoff switch you can put in the jumper loop. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-5L2Z-9341-5L2z9341a-Inertia-Safety/dp/B000NTI03C

I did the MSA 6 to 1 Ceramic and 2.5 all the way back. Did both resonator and muffler. See;

Going electric really isn't a big deal. The 240Z's come wired for an electric pump. It's a matter of putting in the jumper at the front of the console area to power the already existing circuit and adding an inertia switch in your jumper loop to kill the pump in the event of an accident.