w3wilkes

You will need the relays that MSA sells; Motorsport! Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness, 70-73 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts The reason you need these is because of the way Datsun wired the headlights which is a problem for LED's because diodes (the "D" in LED) only allow electricity to flow in one direction. Here's a thread I started that explains why you need the relays.

I went with leather from Interior Innovations and new foam from MSA. I also did matching leather for the shifter and ebrake boots. Here's my thread; Leather Seats - Interior - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)

The bottom "J" rod in your first pic is what's on my MFG'd 12/70 car. Here's a shot of the attachment on the balance tube. In your pic I don't see the hole for the pin holding the washer for the spring (guessing it's really there though).

One other note on the ZX distributor is the E12-92 module also works just fine. I've been running E12-92 since somewhere around 2006.

They are local so I've used Ogden Chrome and had great results. I had a damaged rear fender corner and bought a new one. The chrome didn't match so I had all bumper parts front and rear re-chromed. My only caveat is that it was 1991. One funny thing is the folks in SLC swear by Ogden Chrome and those in Ogden swear by Salt Lake Chrome.

Just decided I have another question regarding the "L" (2) thing in my earlier snip. When you advance the throttle (push on the gas pedal) does it operate the "L" pushing it up to open the butterfly plate in the carb? It should!

From your video I don't see that the front choke is also opening the butterfly in the carb. The rear looks to be working correctly. In the snip I stole from your video when you press up on the choke the "bell crank" (1) should be opening the throttle butterfly plate by pushing up on the "L" (2) but I don't see that happening like I do see it happening on the rear carb.

Still looking at your pics and want to verify that you have throttle return springs attached to the 2 circled levers and go down and attach to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifolds.

One thing I notice is this spring I've circled in red. Remove it and just let that lever thing it's attached to flop around. That lever thing is for a partial throttle opener on deceleration but the emissions part that connects to that lever has been deleted. As it is the spring would be fighting the throttle close springs on each carb.

Here's how the throttle return springs should be hooked up. There's one on each carb.

I would guess fuel pressure should be okay. If I'm right this is dead headed. We'll know better with a pic of the passenger side where the fuel supply and return fuel lines are. If it's dead headed the return line should be capped

Here's what 205/60/15's look like on the car with stock suspension..

Looking further at your pics the jury rigged throttle return spring looks weak. Those carbs should have a spring on each carb going down to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifold.

Curious how the fuel lines go to a "T" and then over the top of the valve cover to... what? How about a pic of the other end of the single fuel line that goes over the top of the valve cover. I'm guessing it just goes to the hard line on the right inner fender? I'm also guessing you have an electric fuel pump at the tank? Or is there a mechanical pump on the passenger side of the engine?

I'm currently running Bridgestone Ecopia's, 205/60/15 and they're okay. My next tires I'll be going back to BFG Radial T/A's in that size. I found them easier to turn the steering wheel at low speed, run more quiet and definitely easier to balance than the Michelins I had before them. Never did get the Michelins to balance very well. The T/A's may not be "performance", but they handled my "spirited" driving just fine. I did have them mounted black walls out, the raised white letters look great on a '70 Chevelle SS, but that's not for me on the Datsun.

My Series 1 12/70 car has the chain on the right, 6 pieces plus the split ring.

I don't think you'd want to leave the tank to vent in any enclosed space, like a garage! When I did my tank I drained it (discarded the fuel at the local hazardous waste facility). Put the drain plug in and pulled the tank and sealed over all the vents, gas in and out tubes and filler port. This was 5 years ago, but my friend walked me through how to clean the tank and prep it for sealing out in the driveway. Once all that was done the tank cured for maybe 2 weeks and then put it back in. Probably another couple of weeks before I was ready to put any gas in. It's been fine ever since and has had nothing but ethanol free fuel.

MSA also has those 15753 front control arm bushings for less than Auto Zone Motorsport! Factory Front Control Arm Bushing, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts

Questions... 1-How did you mount the hoses for bypassing the metal fuel rail? 2- Rather than dead head... Why not a short piece of piping in the hose on the return side (after the carbs) that had the correct restrictor orifice size that Datsun crimped in the end of the return line of the metal fuel rail to even out the fuel pressure?

Redline 75W90 Gear Oil GL-5 Red Line Synthetic Oil. 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil (redlineoil.com)

Here in Utah where we regularly see 90+ in the summer I've been running Driven (Joe Gibbs) HR1 15 / 50 and have had no issues with great oil pressure.

Very nice car! not that it would make any difference, but I think the wheels are Rota RB's, not RKR's.

Sounds like everything you're doing should be raising the boiling point of your coolant which I believe is a good thing. Once coolant starts boiling in the block the air bubbles touching metal cannot pull heat from the metal anymore which can lead to bad things happening. Didn't you say you were running a 190*F TStat? You could try changing that out for a 160*F TStat and see if that helps bring your temps down. From what I've read here you would want the TStat with the centered valve rather than the one with the smaller offset valve.

With Dallas being fairly close to sea level the boiling point of water is right about 212*F. Based on that you've got about 15*F to play with if you ran straight water. Then mix that with antifreeze which has a boiling point of around 387*F a 50/50 mixture would have a boiling point around 223*F so you would have almost 30*F to play with before you boil. You will have a little more room due to the cooling system being pressurized which will raise the boiling point temp even more. One other little thing is that water typically is the best at heat transfer where the 50/50 water / antifreeze may not be quite as good at transferring heat from the engine. This is kind of just off the top of my head. I'd bet @Captain Obvious or @siteunseen would be able to provide more and probably better enlightenment! My thought is you should be okay at 195*F and I'm sure as soon as you start moving it will come down.

Don't know if they're the same bulbs as a 240Z. I used this LED in both the dome and map lights in my car. DE3022 CAN Bus LED Bulb - 18 SMD LED Festoon - 31mm - 90 Lumens | Super Bright LEDs Here's a list of some of the other LED's I used and where they go on the car.