w3wilkes

Is the thermostat housing top on backwards?

It may be that the current vacuum advance from the intake manifold is okay. Should be able to tell how the advance is working that way with a timing light. If it's working okay this way the hole in the carb could just be plugged (with a nail 😁, not really).

The "series 1" cars have the water through the intake manifold, just not into the carbs. The picture posted by @siteunseen (the librarian) of the 2 intake manifolds shows the water line on both the early 70-71 cars (4 screw carbs) and the 72 cars (3 screw carbs) the big difference is the 72 manifold has an additional loop in each carb mounting to route water through the carbs themselves.

Maybe the green tape means GoesFast? 😇

Is there a difference between the 4 Cyl you posted vs this 6 Cyl? Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Datsun/Nissan, 240Z, 6-cyl Hitachi Dist | eBay

Welcome and very nice score on the car!

Since I've replaced all my bulbs except the dash lights with LED to take the load off the wiring including the headlights with the harness upgrade mentioned before the 60 amp alternator seems to be more than enough for my needs. I did do the Retrosound stereo and will be reactivating my dealer installed A/C eventually I think I'm more than good. The 60 amp upgrade I used was this from MSA that eliminates the mechanical voltage regulator where I mounted the headlight relays (there's a note at the end for 73 cars to contact MSA for some options) Motorsport! 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-72 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts

Since I also did the 60 amp internally regulated alternator I "hid" the relays in plain site by mounting them where the old voltage regulator used to live.

You will need the relays that MSA sells; Motorsport! Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness, 70-73 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts The reason you need these is because of the way Datsun wired the headlights which is a problem for LED's because diodes (the "D" in LED) only allow electricity to flow in one direction. Here's a thread I started that explains why you need the relays.

I went with leather from Interior Innovations and new foam from MSA. I also did matching leather for the shifter and ebrake boots. Here's my thread; Leather Seats - Interior - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)

The bottom "J" rod in your first pic is what's on my MFG'd 12/70 car. Here's a shot of the attachment on the balance tube. In your pic I don't see the hole for the pin holding the washer for the spring (guessing it's really there though).

One other note on the ZX distributor is the E12-92 module also works just fine. I've been running E12-92 since somewhere around 2006.

They are local so I've used Ogden Chrome and had great results. I had a damaged rear fender corner and bought a new one. The chrome didn't match so I had all bumper parts front and rear re-chromed. My only caveat is that it was 1991. One funny thing is the folks in SLC swear by Ogden Chrome and those in Ogden swear by Salt Lake Chrome.

Just decided I have another question regarding the "L" (2) thing in my earlier snip. When you advance the throttle (push on the gas pedal) does it operate the "L" pushing it up to open the butterfly plate in the carb? It should!

From your video I don't see that the front choke is also opening the butterfly in the carb. The rear looks to be working correctly. In the snip I stole from your video when you press up on the choke the "bell crank" (1) should be opening the throttle butterfly plate by pushing up on the "L" (2) but I don't see that happening like I do see it happening on the rear carb.

Still looking at your pics and want to verify that you have throttle return springs attached to the 2 circled levers and go down and attach to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifolds.

One thing I notice is this spring I've circled in red. Remove it and just let that lever thing it's attached to flop around. That lever thing is for a partial throttle opener on deceleration but the emissions part that connects to that lever has been deleted. As it is the spring would be fighting the throttle close springs on each carb.

Here's how the throttle return springs should be hooked up. There's one on each carb.

I would guess fuel pressure should be okay. If I'm right this is dead headed. We'll know better with a pic of the passenger side where the fuel supply and return fuel lines are. If it's dead headed the return line should be capped

Here's what 205/60/15's look like on the car with stock suspension..

Looking further at your pics the jury rigged throttle return spring looks weak. Those carbs should have a spring on each carb going down to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifold.

Curious how the fuel lines go to a "T" and then over the top of the valve cover to... what? How about a pic of the other end of the single fuel line that goes over the top of the valve cover. I'm guessing it just goes to the hard line on the right inner fender? I'm also guessing you have an electric fuel pump at the tank? Or is there a mechanical pump on the passenger side of the engine?

I'm currently running Bridgestone Ecopia's, 205/60/15 and they're okay. My next tires I'll be going back to BFG Radial T/A's in that size. I found them easier to turn the steering wheel at low speed, run more quiet and definitely easier to balance than the Michelins I had before them. Never did get the Michelins to balance very well. The T/A's may not be "performance", but they handled my "spirited" driving just fine. I did have them mounted black walls out, the raised white letters look great on a '70 Chevelle SS, but that's not for me on the Datsun.

My Series 1 12/70 car has the chain on the right, 6 pieces plus the split ring.

I don't think you'd want to leave the tank to vent in any enclosed space, like a garage! When I did my tank I drained it (discarded the fuel at the local hazardous waste facility). Put the drain plug in and pulled the tank and sealed over all the vents, gas in and out tubes and filler port. This was 5 years ago, but my friend walked me through how to clean the tank and prep it for sealing out in the driveway. Once all that was done the tank cured for maybe 2 weeks and then put it back in. Probably another couple of weeks before I was ready to put any gas in. It's been fine ever since and has had nothing but ethanol free fuel.