dutchzcarguy

At 58k miles it just needs a good clean and after these 40+ years some new gaskets and new oil seals on the valves that would be all.. Clean it up, get yourself some tools and take a good look in the serv.manual.. and take your time. you'll get there! Some pics are always nice and maybe also helpful! We can help you do it the right way...

No.. it's the same **** We in the south have Hertog Jan.. the better beer... Just all nonsens guys.. i did not drink beer for over 10 years now so what do i know!

I do have a set of a 240/260 z (i'm not sure..) they are originals and no rust ON them a little IN them and are in europe... 😟 they have to cost 800 euro thats with the 4 bumperettes.. it would be best to recrome but could be polished to shiny old chrome..

Btw.. that front bumper/apron is much to big, i would never use that it's much to heavy looking.. get yourself a smaller/thinner/lighter one or original parts..

I find it very iteresting.. lots of vertical scratches is a bad sign.. also those pistons were not the originals.. so the engine was taken already once apart. Anyway, good pics Zkars!

If the groundwork is good but your not sure.. This is a good test.. take the paint of at this place (windshiels area.) and when you discover clean steel you know that the rest will be probably okay to! If there is a lot of Feo... Fe2o3... (chemist joke..) say: RUST !! ... then you know you have to take it all down because your car will be a mess in a few years after your costly paintjob! Yep.. again.. you don't know that for sure... unless you have X-ray eyes! 🧐 Just pick a few spots where you think it's gone wrong.. you will discover the quality of the work already done.. Makes no sense to paint a car that will rust again just because the groundwork is sh**.. I painted a car and took it from clean steel.. costed me some 7000+ euro's but i have had many thumbs up! Here on the forum i did a " Datsun 280zx slickroof 1979 2+2 restauration" (look it up!) and started from this.. (i bought this car because it had almost no rust.. for a dutch car almost impossible due to the climate!) Unbelievable clean..

Put your camera / phone on Macro first. use flash and no flash.. and look whats best.. 👍

Ah.. so it should be a high or low block... 😂 we call a short block a "under-block" (an engine without the head.)

Hi, welcome to the forum. First thing... DO NOT lift that car the way on the picture! Lift it under the original jack points if the car is not rusted inside there or the safe way is under the axles !!! One day you will have a problem with the floor all dented in because its very thin steel and not strong enough to support a complete body with everything (engine and trans is ) IN it! When you have a completely stripped chassis it could be possible to lift it that way but not a complete car.. Buy yourself a service manual or get one on www.xenonzcar.com (And yes the front is partly lifted the way you did in the servicemanual but i've seen to many dents there to say it's safe to do so..) I always lift it on the axles. (I can also lift mine on the orig. jack points because i welded my car's sides and bottom almost from scratch haha.) but when i'm in for a MOT (Here called a APK) i always let them lift it on the axles.

If thats so uncommon, you must have made a pic of it? I (we?) want to see a poor cylinder.. how does it look? 😮 And another question.. maybe i'm stupid.. but what do you guys mean with a short block or a long block..?? to me they are all lóóóóngg blocks! 😟

I would not go to wide on the front wheels.. 6" i have and the steering is already a bit heavy.. I don't know if 8 or 9" will fit in the rear..

I have done that as well.. Btw.. the original knob is made of FAKE wood... (Maybe you can find it in a fake forest? 😉 ) It's a combination of wood powder and glue or epoxy kind of stuff. I made mine of mahogany.. and a layer or 8 !! of lacquer. (Could not find a pic in my files as i have about a 100 million pic to dig through...pffff... )

I "Learned" how to stick-weld at 12 years old.. my dad was pissed to.. Hahaha.. took not a lot of time and he had a tandem and no bike Hahahaha!! 😂 (Oh well he never used those old bikes anyway!)

The pic i put above is of a 280zx block with only 74k Miles (120kkm) so your cylinders should be even better than mine. (My car had oil stickers (MOBIL1 ) even in the door so i think... that it had good maintenance.. the PO was a garage and a RDW guy.. something like someone that worked professionally with cars and knows alot of the subject.) R.D.W. rijks dienst wegverkeer.. Sort of a very technical Dutch DMV? they do APK (= like a MOT.) Also they decide what cars and other mobile stuf is road legal.

It was also known here in the Netherlands! I personally didn't have any kit from heathkit but i remember adverts from them in electronics magazines in the late '70 and '80's ! I did have some kits made, but they came from VELLEMAN a Belgian brand.. still have a remote laying around from that brand!

Can it be a reflection? some spots are a copy of the spots on the top of the piston.. Anyway.. i do see some hone stripes.. not so bad.. give it a good clean.

Glossy finish... normally a good thing ... on paintwork... Not so much on a cylinderwall! The cross hatching is for lubrication of the piston and.. is very poor now i think.. You need to take the pistons out and restore the cylinders.. or buy another block that has them and has a good compression.. Normally a wall is still good after 200000 miles provided that there has been good maintenance i think.. your engine had a lot more miles or bad maintenance.. not sure.. Here i have a pic of a wall with 120000km on it or 74,500 Miles.. (From my 280zx, just a clean up and new seals needed.) Maybe you can restore these with special tools and new rings? somebody chime in with experience? Some pics of your walls would be nice!

Where is Here? 😮

One of the reasons that i'm here is i learn some english... (I hope!!) do i see that right/correct? It says: "Dealer to whom delievered" ? ... that must be wrong hey? (Just under the black DATSUN on red..) But don't worry i find your work fantastic! Very nice, AND you know it.. it's in the details!! Again, it's a beauty! 👍 👏

I looked in my sellar and found the part in a bag with the part number and packing sticker with date! found a old price of 68 euro? Btw.. it's a bit greenish yellow and .. i counted the 16 teeth. partnr: 32703-22000 bought in 1999!

Haha.. hoarding.. 😂 Some z-people called me a hoarder... @bartsscooterservice I did not know that the yellow one was the original for the 240z! Thanks! I got one brand new so i cherish that one!

It's at 1450 dollars now... (that pile of z junk..) but i saw something else a Datsun/nissan 720 1984 that would be a nice winter car.. (And a good car to get my firewood haha.) Copart USA - Online Live Vehicle Auctions - Bid & Win

I threw them complete in the bucket with al the other bolts and came out fine.. that is without the (already perished) lower rubber thing.. I installed them without that lower rubber block and works fine..

Oh then your only... about a 1000 Miles off.. 😂 BTW.. as a electronic engineer i always have trouble with saying a 280zx has a ECU... it's a ECCS.. a analog computing unit.. it has no "clock" in it and no processor... thats also why it's so much more reliable then a ECU (ECCS= Electronic Concentrated engine Control System)

Always a problem as every flatscreen monitor is different, but it's a bit to yellow? on the 240z (on the rear fender) it looks the correct color .. on the second to last pic) It needs just a little bit more brown?