Carl Beck

The right size plastic cap off a can of spray paint - will slip right in the tail and prevent about 98% of the mess... add a little duct tape and your good to go... Of course if you do this job often -you have kept the end off an old driveshaft to stick back in there.. FWIW, Carl B.

Years and decades ago - - - I took two of the transmission bell housing-to-block bolts to the local ACE Hardware. I think they were 1.5 x 10mm bolts - and bought two matching thread size bolts - except with about 3 to 4 inches longer shoulders. Took them home and cut the hex head off - when reinstalling the tranny - i screw them by hand into the top two holes in the block - then line the top two holes in the bell housing up with them - the tranny slides right into place... Saves a lot of twisting/moving/shaking effort with the tranny.. FWIW, Carl B.

"nice purchase" - You are kidding right? That was a STEAL at $9400.00!! A fairly solid Series I - East of the Mississippi.... with all the new parts and work that was already done... A STEAL... Ready to drive anywhere.. BTW - mikerosa - I appreciate the warning... FWIW, Carl B.

Good for you ! - what country are they going to? Carl B.

There was a pretty big Z Club in the Orlando area - good central location. Hot in the summer.. Only an hour or so from Daytona and the Cape.. It takes most Northerners about two years to adapt to the heat/humidity in central Florida - after that your almost a native! Sure is nice to drive your Z year round... FWIW, Carl B.

Where in Florida? Might be some Z Guys around to help or encourage you... FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL {Tampa Bay Area}

Hi Greg: Very interesting information - thanks for sharing it. With 4 240Z's you must have the Z Bug in a bad way! Regards, Carl B.

Interesting - our local radiator shop {shop instead of shops - because the EPA /OSHA shut down all the others in the county} - wanted $245.00 for a replacement heater core. Amazing what happens to the price of stuff when there is no competition. Same thing happened to Electo-plating shops around here. FWIW, Carl B.

The OMS Pace Car for 1972 had Dunlap wheels fitted. Our local BAP/GEON Dealer tried to order them - but they could not import them to the US because they were not US DOT approved - according to BAP/GEON. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - just put a jack or jack stand under the front of the diff. You just have to let it down a couple inches.

When people die doing something they loved - we all say; "well at least they died doing something they loved". There is no question in my mind that our 240Z's love carrying their original owners, at high speed in the left lane... Far better than being wiped out while sitting at a traffic light!! I'll list him with full honors as K.I.A. and with 42 years of service. FWIW, Carl B.

Looks great - seats with proper leg, hip and back support make a huge difference in driving enjoyment in these older Z's. Especially as you get older!! Just make sure they are securely bolted in place.. you don't want them coming lose in an accident.

That's the ticket...!! Carl B.

There is a larger difference between the early 260Z {240Z body} and the later body 260Z {280Z body}, than between the early 260Z and the 240Z. I'd take an early 260Z for your purposes.. FWIW, Carl B.

Remove the whole assembly. As stated, you would need spring compressors to re-install the springs anyway. I wouldn't mess with the spindle pins - unless you need to replace the bushings there. I do find it easier to replace the spindle pins - with the whole assembly off anyway. I take them to a friends shop where there is a 20Ton press. Soak them with Kroil for a couple days, then apply a little heat and PRESS. BTW - I'm guessing that you are actually replacing the shocks - not really the struts {yes/no?} If you are replacing the struts - then yes the spindle pins must come out. Carl B.

Hi Frank: I'm very glad to hear that you are OK - but very sorry for your loss. That is a real shame.. Carl B.

MSA has the heater core "listed" but when you call they usually don't have any. Not even at $299.00. With some aftermarket heater cores they are the same form, fit and function - but the inlets/oulets may be slightly different shape - which means you may have to modify or replace the heater hoses.. I would rather have OEM - - - but lacking that - - then I would rather have a new aftermarket replacement than have to put a 40 year old heater core back in... FWIW, Carl B.

Might see it flipped again... at $15K/$16K... seems that demand is picking up...

and Any way you look at it - bids up to $45K at Mecum are pretty surprising. A happy surprise for many I'm sure.

Hi E: Good observation - an older version was being loaded. Fixed the code - latest update was 22 Mar. 2011. Only a couple more reported "found". thanks, Carl B.

508 in Feb Pretty close - 5870 in the first half Pretty close - 12,081 17,951 Well - somewhat indirectly from the production plant. Kats was given pictures of the production schedule boards several years ago. FWIW, Carl B.

No mention of the actual mileage - but if it checks out to be rust free - with its original factory applied paint.. might be a bargain for someone. Certainly sounds like it is worth a look...

http://zhome.com/Racing//72OMSZColor.jpg Dunlop Wheels made in England. I tried to get a set in 1972 - BAP/GEON showed a listing for them - but they were not US DOT approved and they could not or would not order them at the time. FWIW, Carl B.

A couple years ago - I took an original set of springs to an automotive speciality shop - that had a spring rate measurement device. The set was off a 1970 240Z with about 80K original miles. All four springs checked out to be within the factory spec. Age doesn't seem to be much of a factor - but I'm sure that wear/tear are. It is possible to have springs that are sagging due to fatigue.. I'd measure their Free Length and if within the Factory Spec. - they are most likely OK. While it is hard, you can measure their compressed lenght - while on the car. The results would also give you a clue. The measurements can be found in the Factory Service Manuals. This is a good article on how to replace the stub axle bearings. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html If you have strut off the car - I've had luck heating the strut - then using a large brass hammer and piece of heavy steel plate - to pound the stub axle out from the inside. Make sure you leave the stub axle nut in place at the to of the treads. On one strut - I had to take it to friends 20 Top Press - and even then we had to heat the strut. Most of the time the above will work. Using wood - isn't effective. The wood absorbs/dissipates too much of the energy from the hammer blows. A large heavy brass hammer is most effective. FWIW, Carl B.

See the Pictures on the BRE2.net Web Site http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre2_510s_shop_floor_upper&Category_Code=brearchivephotos510s Looks like it could be the Customer Car build by BRE for customer in Jamaica. But it would take a lot more inspection to be sure.. FWIW, Carl B.