Carl Beck

Welcome to the group - I'd say that for your $300.00 you got a really great deal. A few dents but in otherwise amazing condition for the money. Good luck with the project - and most of all - enjoy the process.. FWIW, Carl B

Nice Collection Mike: My favorite is still the original BRE Team Jacket - - but I like the Australian Datsun Rally jacket a lot as well. By the way - at the Datsun Dealerships, the Jackets and Liners were separate items. You could buy one or both. As I recall the jackets themselves were something like $8.95 and if you wanted the liner they were an extra $2.00. Because these were promotional items, I and many of the salesmen at the Dealerships purchased them ourselves and gave them to people that bought cars from us. The Service Managers also gave them to customers that had larger service bills. I still have my Jacket from the Dealership - - - but it seems a lot smaller now... FWIW, Carl B.

Well - one "pinion" gear is in the differential. Item #58 in the below Parts Catalog Page is "Assembly - Pinion Speedometer" Item #65 is the Speedometer Drive gear. While the speedometer pinion gears, no matter how many teeth are all the same in both the 77-80 and then 81-83 transmissions. There are two slightly different "assembly sleeves" used, between the two types of transmisisons. See Item #59 in the diagram.. FWIW, Carl B.

Is that supposed to be "I told him" ? With a 73 it could be simply a matter of a partial vapor lock in the fuel lines - had you recently filled the gas tank? It could be simply a matter of a plugged fuel filter. It could be a fuel pump going bad. Yes - get a boy friend that knows something about cars. Keep the boyfriend you presently have away from your Z. Differentials that are badly worn - make a lot of noise {as previously mentioned} Differentials that break - stop your car from moving all together. If the rear brakes were dragging - it would wear out the rear brake shoes, but it would also result in a lot of heat and most likely a lot of smoke... First try changing the in-line fuel filter - it is on the inner-fender, on the passenger side of the car. Take it out - take it to the Parts Store near you - and match it up with a new replacement. Find a good Z mechanic near you... FWIW, Carl B.

The crank case vent pipe is located on the front of the engine block, on the left side. A hose connects that vent to the PCV valve that is screwed into the balance tube between the two SU's. If your PCV valve is not operating correctly ie plugged - pressure will build up in the crank-case. This usually shows up as oil burning in the cylinders - and blue smoke coming out the tail pipe.{ and/or oil fouled spark plugs} The vent on top the valve cover - is just that - a vent. The hose from it runs to the air cleaner. With the engine at idle speeds - pressure that can build up in the crank case should not be high enough to cause "exhaust gas" to be pushed out there. FWIW, Carl B.

I'll add a little to what Phred wrote: When the 240Z's were new - one of the services that were preformed at 1200 miles - was to re-torque the head bolts. As I recall the procedure was to simply break them loose, then torque them down again. <pre> Head bolts should be torqued down in three stages - in the same sequence outlined in the service manuals. 12 8 4 2 6 10 14 11 7 3 1 5 9 13 </pre> - first torque them all to 20 ft/lbs - second torque them all to 45 ft/lbs - third then torque them all to between 47 - 61 ft/lbs Lots of people report having no problem if they never "re-torque" the head bolts after initial run engine run in. As I recall some head gaskets were promoted as not needing to be re-torqued. Nonetheless, I still re-torque all head bolts after the first thousand miles, if I've had a head off. {note that I said: "if I have had the head off"} I am always hesitant to tell a non-mechanic to re-torque the head on his engine. Especially if he didn't do the job in the first place. You have to keep in mind that the possibility exist, that you can twist a head bolt off in the block. Not something you want to deal with if you're not willing to tear the engine down yourself. If you have a head gasket leaking oil, the possibility exists that whoever put the head on in the first place - may have stripped a head bolt to begin with... or worse. BTW - For the people with early L24's - they used three lengths of head bolts from the factory. This was reduced to using only two lengths upon replacement and/or on later engines. FWIW, Carl B.

They call it Lime because most people can't spell chartreuseROFL Carl B.

E: - - Specifically "where" do the two wires join together? Carl B.

No. Other than what they are made of - plastic emblems are the same style as the early metal emblems. They are OEM replacements as well. If you were restoring one of the 69 production 240Z's or very early 70 {Jan into Feb of 70} - that had the "chrome Z" as original - then yes having the incorrectly styled emblems could reduce the value of the car by at least the current cost of proper replacements. Worse than the reduced value on a 69 restoration - using the incorrect emblems sends the wrong message to any potential buyer - that short cuts have been taken there - which in turn starts them looking for others or wondering about the quality of the entire car. FWIW, Carl B.

It is not so much a matter of how may miles you drive the car per year although there are limits - - - so much as it is a matter of your intended and actual use of the vehicle. Classic Car Policies cover driving your Classic for Pleasure Only - - they can not be used to cover cars driven for daily or even occasional transportation purposes. You must have another vehicle, insured and used for transportation - ie. a Daily Driver. You must have your Classic Garage kept. You must have a good driving record. If you use your Classic for transportation - when your daily driver is out of commission for any reason - then you are NOT covered. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Matt: I'm glad to hear that you found a good Z to start with and glad to see the progress you've made with it to date. It was a pleasure having you visit. Just as a point of information - I'm currently helping another Original Owner with the restoration of his 73 240Z. Using PPG products - we spent just a couple dollars under $2,000.00 on materials and supplies alone. Looking at the work you've done on the undercarriage and the primer on the entire car I'd guess you have $600.00 to $700.00 in paint, primers, sealers, supplies {cleaning supplies, masking tap, sand paper, thinners}. The good news is you have the undercarriage, engine bay and suspension all done - the bad news is that in order to keep it clean while the car is in the body shop - it will take additional time to seal everything off. This also means that you have to find some pretty professional and caring people to do the work - without screwing up what you have already put so much effort into. I'll check with couple shop's I've used here in the Clearwater area but they may be to far outside your current budget. If you stick with PPG's better quality materials you're looking at $1,000.00 + and it is reasonable to think that it would take a couple weeks of labor {80 hours x $45.00 to $55.00 per hour} - $3600.00 to $4,400.00 These are shops that will get your car in - work on it - and get it out - - rather than letting it sit for six months to a year using it as side work. I'll check with them anyway - just as a reference point, but I think your budget might be a bit too low - to match the quality of work you've already put into the car. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Michael: There is a very large difference between a Stated Value Policy and an Agreed Value Policy. With a Stated Value Policy - you state a value and the insurance company bases the premium they charge you in part upon that value and in part upon the liability rates for your age group in your area. If you have an accident or the car is stolen - You will deal with a Claims Adjustor and he will in most cases "adjust" the value down do to the use {months from the appraisal date, or miles accumulated} as well as what the Actual Cash Value would have been without the Stated Value. You are better off with a Stated Value Policy - - - but it really isn't all that different legally than listing Actual Cash Value on your policy. Note I said above "..you state the value".... That is NOT THE SAME AS the insurance company Agreeing to that value and agreeing to pay that amount in case of a total loss {accident or stolen}. With an Agreed Value policy - there really is no claims adjustor. There is no question about the current value of your car. Most Classic Car speciality insurers sell Agreed Value Policies. Classic Cars have very low loss rates and are rarely exposed to risk on the highways/streets because they are driven only for pleasure. If you drive your Z only for pleasure - you have it garaged - you don't use it when your daily driver is out of commission - then your best coverage is with a Classic Car speciality insurer that writes Agreed Value policies. Take your Agreed Value Insurance Policy - and sit down with a lawyer. Don't listen to any insurance agent - the agent that sells you the policy won't be the person settling a claim should you ever have one. Ask your lawyer what the legal difference is between Stated Values and Agreed Values... If you do use your Z as a second car for transportation - it would not be covered by a Classic Car Policy. If you drive your car for your pleasure - no matter where - if it was for your pleasure and you have other cars for transportation - then you should have your Z on an Agreed Value policy. Hagerty will issue and Agreed Value Policy if you e-mail them current pictures of your Z - and if your driving record is clean - $15K would be no problem - in fact $18K for a super clean 280Z is more reasonable in my opinion. $18K Agreed Coverage would run you ABOUT / AROUND $150.00 PER YEAR {not every six months}. FWIW, Carl B.

To get reasonable recommendations - it would help if you would tell us: a) what condition the car will be in - when you are ready to take it to a body shop for body and paint work. Will you have all glass, chrome, trim, lights etc stripped off the car? Will you have the interior out of the car? What metal work needs to be done? Define in terms of the "price" you expect to pay, what a good paint job should cost. c) What kind of turn-around time do you expect? 90 days, 6 months, 12 months??? BTW - I believe that D'Elegance only does mechanical work - so they can do the engine rebuild. FWIW, Carl B.

Is that the VIN taken from the firewall or the Dash? HLS30 035147 would have had a Build Date of 06/71 12/71 Build Dates are from aprox. HLS30-56xxx into 62xxx FWIW, Carl B.

Item number: 180611367694 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-260Z-Unbelievable-Survivor-240Z-260Z-280Z-Nissan-1-OWNER-74-/180611367694?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2a0d46c30e If this one owner, 98K mile 260Z can be purchased for $7K to $10K - then a 240Z with a salvage title would be worth about half that to me. Why would you buy a potential problem, when for the same money you could buy a jewel? I'm not saying that the salvaged Z isn't worth something, nor that no one should buy it. I just don't see how anyone would expect a salvaged 240Z to sell in the $7K-$10K range in todays or tomorrows market, when so many other clean Z's are available in that price range. Am I missing something here? FWIW, Carl B.

You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. The questions about the actual mileage are a fog-ball. Any way you look at it - it is a rebuilt wreck and the mileage is meaningless. Nothing so rare about the car as to justify risking your time and money on it's future value - If one is going to spend $7K to $10K there are still lots of clean 240Z's out there that represent a far better purchase decision. If this one drives out OK - you might spend $5K for a daily driver or weekend auto-cross car, but it's not a car you would want to put much more money and time into. FWIW, Carl B.

In that 1971 Trans/Am film - they mention Lee Midgley driving an Alfa - Lee was the co-driver with Peter Brock in the 73 Baja 500. Competitors in one series and team members in another. Roman Tucker now owns the Alfa that Lee drove in the 71 Trans/Am. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - very import to use the correct part made of the correct material in that location. The hose your referring to is made out of a vinyl material rather than synthetic rubber - - the vinyl withstands the heat from the exhaust manifold better than synthetic rubber fuel line would, and its thin wall construction allows tight turns without kinking. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: See the Z Car Home Page - http://ZHome.com Bolivia, Columbia and Peru When the Z Car Convention was held at Daytona a few years ago - we had several visitors from Columbia in attendance. FWIW, Carl B.

The 5spd. - if it is a newer Type B - will have three nylon bushings between the shift lever and the transmission. Two go in the sides of the shift lever where it mounts to the transmission - one goes on the bottom of the lever. See diagram below. You'll most likely have to remove the center consol to get down to them. {Z mechanics with experience and a lift - can change them from under the car}. Item #31 Part Number: 32855-H1010 Bush-Control Lever - you need 2 each, but order extra's Item #31 Part Number: 32861-N4200 Bush-Control Lever - you need 1 each, but order an extra If the clutch fluid has been allowed to go to low - you can get air sucked into the lines. Top the fluid up and bleed the system. I have seen 5spd.'s that lost gears ... but it's unusual. These are pretty strong units for the weight/torque involved. Your problem is most likely with the shifter and clutch engagement/disengagement. Watching the video's you Posted and listening to the engine: I believe you said that you put fresh spark plugs in - but after trying to start the car, and having it run on 3 or 4 cylinders very rich at start-up - - -it is quite possible that you have fouled a plug or two in the process. Since you weren't able to drive it enough at progressively higher RPM's - to clean the plugs - - - You may have to pull them out and clean them up - you can use a medium stiff wire brush if necessary. Don't think that just because they are new - that they are firing properly at this point. The Z's are cold natured - they can be hard to start when cold. Catching and running on 3 or 4 cylinders at first is common - but within a few seconds all 6 plugs should be firing and you should be able to increase the RPM to around 1200 - 1500 without the engine dying. FWIW, Carl B.

*Why do I see only the center section of the video image? *Who is the voice behind the camera? *Warn the car up before driving.. drive easy the first few times. *Make sure you carry a couple spare in-line fuel filters.. with old gas you may clog a few up before all the varnish is washed out.. *Sounds like the rubber bushing at the bottom of the shift lever is either loose or shot. {if you still have the original type A tranny}. * If the clutch fluid is low - you'll have a hard time shifting gears. Make sure that is FULL.. and the lines are clear of any air. Bleed the clutch system at the slave. FWIW, Carl B

Most likely mentioning what you already know - but just to recap... Yes - it sounds like "C" is what is called the 280Z stub axle. Perhaps it is the larger companion flange that is "stronger" - rather than the stub axle itself. Spacers are stamped "A", "B" and "C" - and they are about 0.020" longer than each other. I believe that was a way to adjust for the casting and machining tolerances, of the bearing seats within the strut housings. So in effect - whatever size spacer was used by the factory with a specific strut housing - it should be kept the same size - so that the end play comes out correctly when the axle and assembly are torqued down. So far I haven't found any documentation related to the specific distance between the inner and outer bearing seats within the strut housings. {sure would be helpful to know what that should be}. If your stub axle "A" had no washers on each end of the spacer - then it was either a early 240Z stub axle that was assembled incorrectly - - - OR - - - it was the later {after 08/73} axle that required no washers. Given that the bearing seats within the strut housing are fixed in place - It is a mystery to me as to how the space previously occupied by the washers, was filled when not using them. Unless much longer spacers were used - - but that doesn't seem to be the case. In 1973 Nissan added a copper washer, under the washer/lock-nut that is torqued down on the axle. The service bulletin said that was to eliminate noise... Nonetheless- I'd say that your axle "C" with a good nut would be the way to go... FWIW, Carl B.

Great story - there are few things in life that are quite as enjoyable as a road trip with your son in an early Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Coop: Do they both have the same number of splines? Will the same companion flange fit on either one? Carl B.

Garrett Air Research T03 - made in Japan under license. FWIW, Carl B.