Carl Beck

While you can't really find a new wiring harness - it isn't really that hard to "restore" the one you have as long as it hasn't burned up already. The good news is that in the mean time - some of the original problems or issues with the original wiring have been identified and corrections or accommodations made for them. The melting fuse boxes - can be avoided by a plug&play rewiring harness - that takes the main electrical load of the headlights - out of the fuse box and puts it in relays. That or you can replace the original glass fuse type fuse box with a more modern one... Both are available from Motorsports Auto Likewise - most of the tail light problems had to do with poor body grounds - that's an easy fix. So get that original wiring harness out - clean everything up - especially all connectors - and re-wrap it... FWIW, Carl B.

Just some thoughts... The most common cause I've seen of the sympthoms you describe - other than a bad battery - is loose or corroaded battery terminals. The first thing I'd do is pull the terminals off, clean them down to bare metal - both on the battery and on the wires. Then reconnect them making sure they are tight. Second most common is alternator belt tension too loose. Lots of people look at the terminal connections - they "look" OK and they don't go any farther. Take them off and clean them the make sure they are TIGHT. Then Sit in the car after the battery is fully charged - and the car has been stopped/not running for a few hours - then put a finger on each individual fuse - see if any of them feel warmer than the others. That might give you a clue as to which circuit to check. I know you had the battery "tested" - but did they perform a proper "Load Test" on the battery? Many auto parts stores fail to perform this test, or don't have the test equipment to do it in the first place. Batteries can hold a surface charge until they are put under a higher load - such as in starting - then they short out and go dead under a higher load. With a good battery - fully charged - you should be able to leave the parking lights on for several hours, without a problem restarting the car. Good luck Carl B.

Hi Bonzi: Yes - Bill sent me pictures of the #76 car in Jan. 2010. Then we talked at the 40th Anniversary Celebration at Nissan HQ in Nashville, when we stopped by his Orange 70. While it is listed as one of the 39 remaining first 100 in the list posted above - I had forgot to remove it from the "totalled" list at the bottom. Sorry if that caused some confusion..:stupid: Left to Right: Mr. Matsuoka, Bill Edens, Mr. Matsuo, Todd Wagner - with Bill's Orange 1970 240Z. BTW - the latest update is as of 12 Apr. 2012 - and shows 176 cars found so far. Pretty amazing that 32% of them are still in existence some 43 years later. FWIW, Carl B.

You need a chrome - LED Flashlight to snap into what was the fuel filter holder.... Or maybe a Mr. K bobble head... It just looks like something is missing there... actually it is... but it shouldn't look that way... FWIW, Carl B.

I'll mention this because some Z's or ZX's have electric fuel pumps in their fuel tanks. In my 88 Chevy Pickup - ethanol fuel melted the rubber intake/output hoses on the in-tank mounted electric fuel pump. Over the years I'd changed out all the other rubber fuel lines with newer type fuel lines. Finally around 2010... my wonderful old beauty - which had ran without a problem for 22 years... gave up... yep - the fuel pump died {so I thought}. Not being able to avoid it any longer - I had to lift the bed up off the frame and pull the fuel pump out... a major PIA to say the least. Once out I could see that the small rubber hoses on the pump looked like they just melted.. black goo was all that was there. Amazingly - I cleaned everything up - put new hoses on the pump - check that it was running - and put it back in the tank. Fixed for a few cents worth of rubber fuel line!! Other than that - I've always updated my rubber fuel lines every decade or so - so the ethanol fuel hasn't been a problem. As I recall however - didn't Nissan have to recall all the Z31's to change out the fuel lines and injectors.. at no charge. Don't recall if that applied to the Z32's or not. FWIW, Carl B.

The possibility of finding any NOS accessary items in a Dealer's inventory are quite slim. I'd say less than one tenth of one percent. PN 99990-00062 That said - I'd suggest that you measure the length - center to center - on your bumper up-rights. Then specify that length along with the model year. Likewise if you find some for sale - make sure you see the tap measure showing their length before you send money. Can't tell you how many guys I know that have bought the wrong bar... one too short or too long... when the seller had no idea what they were selling. As I recall - the "mounting hardware" - is just a few carriage bolts. I would think that your best bet is E-Bay on something like this. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Fixitman: What was I thinking... I guess that just threw me a curve. You are absolutely correct. Everything is "A-OK". Love the air cleaner!! FWIW, Carl B.

So.. do you have water running all the time though your heater core?

I needed the chokes when I lived in Washington State - you'll be glad you have the chokes hooked up if you stay in Ohio. Here in Florida there was no need for them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jay: To build a car to completion - the assembly plant has to have all the parts necessary. So with a Date Of Manufacture of 01/70 - you can expect most of the parts to have been produced prior to that. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jay: In case you haven't seen it - here is a good article about replacing the floorboards. http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm You may notice a couple things - first leave the front seat support bracket in place - that will hold the transmission tunnel in place. Second the rear seat supports are connected/reinforced on your 72 - they are not on your 70. So you will want to cut the rear seat supports out of your 70 while still connected to the floorboards - so you can use them as a template for positioning to reinstall. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jay: I think you will find that the 70 and 72 Cross-members are quite different. As I recall the 70 cross-member bolts up into the body - where the 72 has bolts that run parallel to the body - that is the 72 has brackets that stick down from the body and the cross-member slides up into them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Phils204z: Go To: http://ZHome.com In the Left Hand Column - select - "Internet Z Car Club" Then select -- "Z Car Registers" In the Right Hand Frame -You Will See: "To Add your car to one of the Registers" under that heading select: In the Right Hand Frame - select: "The Original Owners' 240Z Register" Because your Father-In-Law was the original owner - you {and/or you and your wife} will be shown as the Second Generation original owners. If you have any questions just drop me an E-Mail: beck@becksystems.com FWIW, Carl B.

If Rebello or Sunbelt built your original L24 - to reasonable "street car" spec.'s {they could stroke it to L26 spec.'s and bore it to wind up between L26 and L28 spec} -- that engine would be far better in terms of torque and HP than any L28 put together by the average mechanic. Complete it might cost between $6K and $8K, but you would only have to do it once. Add an 83 5spd and 3.9 rear or even a 3.7 rear and you'd be in great shape - with a pure stock looking engine bay. Or you can have all that done for half as much money - and wind up with 65% of the power and a poorly running street engine. I've had lots of them... FWIW, Carl B.

BRE style front air spoiler with brake cooling air scoops - Spoiler + Scoop - - aka BRE Spook. See: http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B01&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts FWIW, Carl B.

I really wish I hadn't looked at that picture - - - I "refreshed" my webers, engine and engine compartment about 17 years ago..and they are over do for a rework now... I forgot how good they looked then... another summer project ... FWIW, Carl B.

I have a Jim Cook intake manifold - to mount the super-charger to the L24/28 - just in case you find a supercharger. $175.00 + shipping/boxing etc.

Oh yea .... that's what I need:tapemouth

This may help - http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks Mitchell / Mike W. I'll have to go look again at the stock pedal assembly - but I think I understand... FWIW, Carl B.

Could you show us more about how the throttle cable was installed... what it took, or how it was modified - to hook to the accelerator pedal etc. thanks, Carl B.

Ferdinand Alexander Porsche died Thursday in Salzburg, Austria at age 76 http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/46966251/ns/business-autos/t/ferdinand-porsche-sports-car-designer-dies/ The Automotive World has lost a very good man. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chase: The Devil is in the details - or in this case the value is in the details. How about providing more details or detailed pictures of your 72 as it stood when you bought it. Some 240Z's are worth $2500.00 and some seem to have been sold recently for $16,000.00 to $18,000.00. Here is a 72 with 131,000 miles - that sold for $10,100.00 E-Bay Item 190657808359 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/190657808359?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l2736%26_nkw%3D190657808359%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1 The buyer has been looking for a good 240Z for two years now... Again - an original owner, well documented example.. in really good condtion. Someone on this forum - from Texas - recently stated that they couldn't find a rust free 240Z in Texas..How long ago did you buy your Z? FWIW, Carl B.

80900-E8801 Door RH White - - up to 6/72 80900-N3304 Door RH Beige --- 7/72 forward Call it dirty white if you like - almost everyone does - but Nissan called it Beige. 73 Model Introduction FWIW, Carl B.

I can't understand why some people insist that the mileage is not correct. 31K documented miles, then stored for 25 years - - sounds like that would be pretty easy to check - Look at the documentation and call the original owner. The engine compartment is way to clean and original looking to be a 131K mile car. I don't find this to be unusual at all. I bought new seat covers and door panels for my Blue/White 72 - a few months after I bought it new. I figured at some point I'd want to or need to replace a white interior. For that matter I have all new interior panels for my White/Red 72, on which I am the second owner. One Original Owner here in this forum - is finally having his Z restored - and many of the NOS parts were purchased by him 30 years ago. It wasn't a matter of need - so much a matter of forward planning. FWIW, Carl B.