Carl Beck

What does "KURO" mean, stand for, represent... :-) I hate to miss something... So is it snowing there yet? Carl B.

The pictured Z would not meet the criteria to be classified as a #2 Condition example. The engine is rough - and it would have to pulled and fully restored - all bright and shiny etc. One would have to see the actual condition of the paint and the undercarriage as well. In todays market - nice as it seems to be - it would take a lot of time and effort in addition to several thousand dollars to bring it up to a condition that would command anything over $20K. Serious Collectors will spend the money for Perfection - but they won't buy a Project and screw around with it. That leaves the subject car to the Enthusiast Market - and right now most Enthusiasts are very conservative with their spending. {I know one offer of $45K has been made for a near perfect 72 Surivor in true #2 Condition - and that hasn't been accepted yet that I know of} A super low mileage survivor will command a premium even today - but it has to be "Show Ready" with documented mileage etc. to bring over $25K today. I know it is sad... the 73 I finished last year - the original owner had a little over $65K in. But he, like you and other original owners restore their Z's because they have had and loved them for over 40 years.. and they figure they are spending the money on themselves. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: WHAT? When did that happen? Do you recall who at the Hagerty told you that? Before the Financial Melt down - I know at least 5 serious Collectors that were buying #1 and #2 Condition 240Z - and with a few pictures E-Mailed to hagerty they were insured above $50K with no problem.{no outside appraisal etc} I worked with Hagerty originally - to get our Original Owner 240Z's insured with Classic Car Policies, with high enough Agreed Values to assure the cars would be repaired rather than totalled in case of a serious accident - most of the 175 Original Owners on our Register carried at least $20K. Your Z right now should be insured for at least, at the very least for $50K. That certainly would not replace it - but at least that would assure it would be repaired if anything did happen to it. $32,500 would not begin to buy a true #1 or #2 Condition 240Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark - So your Z has about 8,000 original miles - Wow. Can you Post some Pictures of your Engine Compartment for us. Nothing really to consider - The 73 Model Year Datsun 240Z's sold here in North America started production in 8/72 and ended 8/73. The VINS started with HLS30-120001 FWIW, Carl B.

We had the "Oil Embargo" aka Fuel Shortages at the end of 73 and that put a real damper on the US economy - which was already slow. AIR - when I moved here to Florida in 73 the unemployment rate was over 14% and Mortage Rates were around 12%. Add the effects of the ever stricter Emissions Standards that robbed performance and Sports Car sales were at a snails pace. FWIW, Carl B.

I doubt he'll find any - Unless his definition of a "good deal" - is paying a lot up front for a very good car. Which as most of us know is usually the best deal one can get. If his definition of a "good deal" is a Datsun that is low priced [cheap}, looks good, runs good and could be driven daily for a few weeks here - -- he won't find one. When cars like that come up - they are bought within hours if not days of listing. But it never hurts to try.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: The only thing I can think of - is that it must not be a 4spd. from a 72 240Z. Thus the longer extension from the pivot point is moving the shift forks too far and they are hanging up on the gear clustor. j Good to hear that you have solved the issue. Carl B.

The last door seals I purchased last year - were the two last one's in the Country for a 73 240Z. Courtesy had one and a Dealer in California had the other. As I recall they were around $500.00 total, plus shipping. That was for Seals with the new Pinch Welting attached. You are lucky if any for the 260Z's are actually still available. At this point $500.00 for both of them seems reasonable to me.. The last OEM NOS rear window Seal I had installed - split from age within a year. Now it has to be replaced again.. FWIW, Carl B.

There is a difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive". China today is quite capable of building the finest products in the world. The only question is - what does the Customer want to buy. You really won't know if the pliers Toolway Industries purchased in China, are actually cheap or just inexpensive - until you have put them to the use you intended. If they hold up well and do the job you need done - they are just inexpensive. If they fail your use - they were cheap. Likewise "cheap" steel from Canada is still "cheap" steel. All depends on what the Customer wishes to buy - and in turn what their Customers are willing to pay. Let us know next year which they turned out to be.. FWIW, Carl B Yes, My Apple Mac Pro, iMac untra-light, iMac Portable, iPad and iPod were all made in China... wonderful products!

Wow... a lot of hard work there - looks Great!! Carl B.

PLASTIC! - - - I've been robbed!!! That is a crushing revelation - but given all the other chrome plated plastic in the car - I should have guessed ! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Ok talking to John Williams in Atlanta - The nut on the main shaft can come lose, if it isn't torqued properly and peened strongly enough. In that case the entire gear cluster can move rearward and it kicks the shifter out of gear. Both said that it was far more common in the 5spd. than the 72/78 4spd. with original transmissions from the factory. Early 72 production Z's had the problem show up - but by later production it seemed that Nissan was peening the nuts with more force - and they rarely come lose. If the tranny has been rebuilt -it is a different matter - - it is as common in both 4&5 speeds if the nut is not penned in place strongly enough. You have to pull the tail housing off - see if the nut is lose. If so, you have to torque it back down, and properly peen it in place. Both said that when that happens they replace the nut with a new one. The clunkiing you hear is most likely the whole gear cluster hitting the shift fork. FWIW Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Bummer... so far I haven't found a good "pointed tip" mast.. seems the parts I have are mostly from Series I cars. I have an "Antenna Repair Kit" from Nissan - the kit consists of the antenna body and nylon drive belt. I was thinking that might work - but it has a round tip on the antenna, unlike anything I've seen on a 240Z. So form, fit and function may be the same - but the Nissan replacement part is consmetically different. I have a couple other places to look, but I don't hold out much hope.. FWIW, Carl B.

Dear Andy Palmer: I am sure that Nissan and you know what you are doing, but personally I would have NO interest in buying a Z Car with a four banger. Too many other cars in the present market with that engine configuration. Personally - I don't know anyone that buys a "Sports/GT" based on fuel consumption, nor emissions here in the US. Nissan seems to have completely forgotten that when the Datsun 240Z was introduced - its competitors in the mid priced Sports Car Market were all powered by 4 cylinder engines. The Z Car's silky smooth standard 6 cylinder engine, with higher levels of torque and horsepower sat the Z apart from its competition. It was also the reason that the Z put most of its competition out of the market here in the US. If it has a 4 cylinder engine it should be called a 240SX here in the US. "Badge Engineering" never works for long here. Many auto companies have proven that in the past. Just as I see it Carl B.

I can't remember the exact details - so I'll call a couple guys that rebuid trannies monthly... However, as I recall - one of the transmissions had a large nut that secured the shaft that 1st & Reverse are on - and that nut can come lose. This was corrected by reverse threading that nut on later transmissions so it tightened with rotation of the shaft. {or viseversa}. I just don't remember if that was a 4 or 5 spd. that had the problem I have had some "clunking" in reverse - usually it was caused by rear brake shoes hanging up - and putting additional strain on old weak U-joints in the half shafts. But in that case someone standing outside the car as I backed up - could hear the clunk at the rear of the car. Let you know if I find any useful info. Carl B.

The metal retainer on the bottom of the OEM knob - is there to help prevent the knob from splitting/cracking, as well as to keep the set nut from hitting the wood. So long term it is very important. Tongue Oil - or some other oil finish will also help keep the wood from splitting/cracking.

Do you know what "parts" you need? The first thing to do - is take your present antenna apart to see if the drive strap is broken [the long nylon rope that attaches to the top end of the antenna}, then check the electric motor to see if it runs, then look at the gears inside. In the mean time - I'll look to see what I have... but wouldn't want to send you stuff that won't fix your problem. As I recall - you have to Ground the body of the antenna if you run it out of the car.. for that matter it needs a good body Ground to run in the car. Carl B.

Interesting - - The Shinny Black one looks just like all of them I've taken off manual transmission equipped 1970 Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

On my 73 the Key that fit the Door - also fit the ignition. I took the door lock to a local Locksmith and he made me new keys. I'd sure try that first. FWIW, Carl B.

You got a heck of a DEAL - Goes to show - that you should buy stuff when you don't need it, or when it's too big a bargain to pass up. My problem is now I have about $35,000.00 worth of that stuff... FWIW, Carl B.

Maybe one thing. After I soak them with Kroil for a day - then coat them with Kroil - I put a Snap-On line wrench on them - then holding the line wrench under some tension - I smack the other end of the line wrench a swift blow with a brass hammer. Dynamic torque breaks them lose far better than slowly applied torque by hand. If the flair nuts round off - I next go to vice grips and do the same thing.. SMACK! All these now 40+ year old flair nuts are very soft with age. I'll be ordering the Irwin's myself.. Kano Labs' KROIL - nothing but KROIL... Good luck, Carl B.

Great Picture... Carl B.

Doesn't surprise me. 4 people willing to pay $1200.00 or more, 2 people willing to pay $1500.00. I guess I shouldn't sell mine now for less than ....$1250.00. FWIW, Carl B.

If you have a CNC router - you would just start with a thick piece of clear acrylic - cut the pattern in the bottom - and cut/form the dome on the top. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: Please let us know if you actually get them. I also called and was told they had them. When they went an looked in the inventory shelves they found they had none. When I finally called after waiting two weeks- they saidl "Oh..sorry we meant to call you.. They USED to have them listed on this Page of their Web Site - I see they have removed that listing at this point. At the time they had this info: 70 71 72 73 NISSAN 24OZ HEATER CORE Item#: 9378 2251 Price: $109.99 Shipping + $15.00 1-800-900-9560 http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxesfshop.aspx?c=421891&sfid=75198&sid=0 I called before ordering on-line to make sure they actually had them.. and was told that yes they had them - so I ordered 2. Good luck - I hope you actually get one... if not I hope it doesn't take a major effort to get the charges taken off your credit card. FWIW, Carl B.