Carl Beck

The Above at POST 301 - David Martin purchased the Friselle car - Bob might be able to put you in contact with David - send Bob a PM. On that SHOW - Adam wanted to trade his Maserati even for the Friselle car. The Maserati had a current market value of aound $225,000.00. Bruce wanted $50K plus the Maserati.. or $275,000.00. FWIW, Carl B.

How many miles are on that Tranny? Might be a situation where the clutch is not fully disengaging the disc from the flywheel. I'd check the operation of the clutch first especially if you experience the problem in all gears at the same time. Second, I'd try changing the Tranny Fluid - to one of the Redline or Royal Purple synthetics. Also agree - I wouldn't put a 30 year old used transmission in the car - without having it rebuilt in the first place. Personally I'd go with the 83 5 spd. - it is plenty strong. FWIW, Carl B.

I can't see any reason not to use shims - to set things up and measure the correct height. Most Regrind Cam sellers will tell you what size lash pads should be used with their Cams in that engine - I'd be a little concerned if they don't know.. I'd also be a little concerned if I had head work done and the valve stems were not at the same height.. FWIW, Carl B.

To put the FS5C71A out of the roadster into a Z - you have to have the 240Z bellhousing AND a longer tail shaft & housing. {so it's not just the bellhousing}. That transmission and the matching driveshaft were the "competition" parts used in 70/71. That drive shaft with it's bolted flanges is stronger than the OEM units in the Z's. That is the setup that both BRE and BSR ran back in 70-73. So I wouldn't worry about it not being strong enough for a street car. The differential was moved rearward with the introduciton of the type "B" tranny - ie the 1972 model year. If you are swapping in an 83 tranny - I'd go ahead and move the differential rearward and use the 72 - 78 drive shaft. Nonetheless the driveshaft out of the 70 will work with the 83 tranny - if you leave the differental in its more forward position. FWIW, Carl B. Oh - BTW - that drive shaft and your half shafts use a "splined" interface - they aren't geared.

I'd say join HybridZ.org if you are not already a member there. First - see if someone there with experience is anywhere near you, or if they can recommend someone that knows what they are doing. Or see if you get some bids for the project from someone that is close to you. BTW - giving only the State that you are in as your "location" really doesn't provide any useful information to anyone that might be willing to help - as they have no idea were you actually are.. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh.... sigh of relief .... I though you were going to say that you had trouble with your heart, and would need by-pass surgery.. {One of the main symptoms of heart health problems is lack of energy}.. Don't scare me like that!! FWIW, Carl B.

Two things 1. Some of my cars sit for months between use and when I wanted to use them, the battery was dead. 2. Batteries in cars that sit for months - were lasting at most 3 1/2 years About 20 years ago, I got tired of both 1 & 2 above. Started hooking the cars up to battery tenders {float chargers} that I got at the Marine Supply Store. They were broadly used by boat owners here in Clearwater to maintain the charge in stored boats. Bottom line - all of my cars now start whenever I want to use them and battery life cycle has increased to over 7 years. FWIW, Carl B.

If the car was sitting for long with the dash out - the first thing I'd check is the charge in the battery. Second place I'd look is at the wires on/under/around the steering column. Just a guess Carl B.

Jim - that is just toooo funny --- :-) Carl B.

I can't get over how clean the undercarriage appears to be.. I'd need to see a picture of the entire center section of the exhaust system to tell if that is the original resonator - I can tell you that my White 72 with 80K miles still has the original exhaust system.. so it is not unusual. keep at it.. Carl B.

No - a very late 71 Model Year. It has the "A" type tranny and center console.Some were produced into 09/71. 72 Model year started production in in 09/71 with VIN's starting at 46001 FWIW, Carl B.

While it is up on stands - get good pictures of the floorboards and frame rails - as well as the entire undercarriage. Keep it as close to original or at least Stock as possilbe. It will sell faster and for more money that way today. Regardless of the actual mileage, or condition of the engine - most buyers for a car like this want the engine compartment to look as close to original as possible. So a well detailed engine with block painted etc will be a big plus when selling. Depends on local demand - but when finished $16K to $18 would be a bargain for the buyer. {if everything is done right}. I also agree with the full dash cap.. cracked dashes are just ugly...and turn buyers off FWIW, Carl B.

Gee - I must have arrived here just after that Amazing Event!! Even then I would not have expected that in CLEARWATER!! FWIW, Carl B.

Oh.. ya.. right. I was focused on the shape of the wheel rim lip.. I've always liked the Appliance Wire Mesh wheels.. FWIW, Carl B.

A couple of thoughts.. 1) Wasn't someone offering a $1000.00 reward for finding those wheels?? 2)Not to be critical - but I wish everyone would put that actual SUBJECT of their Posts in the SUBJECT LINE. That makes it so much easier to find by people searching for the information and pictures in threads like this. How about; "Refreshing My 72 240Z - a project" 3) Looks like you have a pretty nice 240Z to start with - and they are always fun to work on. 4) Your spindle pins came out with just penetrating oil - I don't want to hear it !!! 5) Good luck with the project - enjoy the process... FWIW, Carl B.

Very nice clean lines - pull the Buick V8 out and replace it with a Buick Turbo V6 and you'd have a lot of fun.. No idea what it is worth to anyone - but the $75K asking price doesn't seem to far out of line. Really not too much in common with the Scarab Z's - The Scarab Z's were a regular production car with an engine swap. This car has it's own uique custom built frame and body. More along the lines of the Bricklin or DeLorean maybe... FWIW, Carl B.

Not quite - that is a picture from the 73 500. The photo was taken by the guys at TRACKSIDE Photo, and they loaned Peter their 5 gallon water jug, to help replace the coolant lost though a leak in the radiator. Later the hood was modified with stops repositioned - so it stops about 10 degrees sooner now. If it is in the way, the hood can be removed when you pull two quick release pins at the hinge.

Seems that someone got a very interesting piece of history - along with a very nice 240Z - all at a reasonable price. It it turns out to be in the condition as presented - should be a very happy new owner. FWIW, Carl B.

There was a very nice TR-6 at the St. Petersburg Yacht Club Classic Car Show last month. It had been restored and was for sale - As I recall the asking price was $17,500.00. A 240Z in the same condition would easily bring that much or more - and sell faster around here. FWIW, Carl B.

If a DATSUN 280Z is runing well - and you can drive it for 30 miles without incident - then you have a very good chance of driving it a couple thousand miles without incident. A couple of hand tools and minor spare parts onboard - and I'd take the chance.. A Jensen Healey Interceptor on the other hand - NO Way... Was the A/C compressor the only thing that caused an issure on the 280Z?.. Really the video seemed to be about fixing the Healey.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Since you have to remove the center console - to install the vinyl shift boot. - I'd suggest you order a new mount for the choke lever. This mount allows you to mount the choke lever directly to the transmission tunnel - rather than having it screwed to the plastic center console. Not only is it much stronger - it makes taking the center console out and putting it back in FAR easier. EBay: Datsun 240Z 1972/73 Choke Cable Lever Mounting Bracket Item number: 281018241353 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1972-73-Choke-Cable-Lever-Mounting-Bracket-/281018241353?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416dfe1149&vxp=mtr FWIW, Carl B.

Because they are people that have never owned a DATSUN. Carl B.

Really !! What was Don doing in Gainesville - he lives in Ocala, has a museum there as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Sounds like a fun project - Does "set back" mean you plan to make the dash less thick/deep? To get better A/C in the car {bigger evaporators} - the Dash in the 280Z's was made deeper. Making the dash thinner wouldn't really give you more passenger/driver room - and it would make working on it later - just that much harder. I'd also want to make all the gauges/instruments and lights easy to remove/reinstall from the front of the dash. I'd also use all electric actuators... I'd love to fit the entire A/C & Heater System out of our Kia Soul {or any of a number of modern small cars} - into a 240Z. Before you build that custom Dash - maybe you can consider making it easily accomidate some other Factory A/C system. One that people could go to the junk yard and remove -to transplant easily and at relatively low cost. But that's just me.. Good luck with the project.. FWIW, Carl B.

Ah..Good Thought... Carl B.