Carl Beck

With marginal care - the L24's were good for at least 250K miles. Even then, most of the time they only require new rings/bearings. The cylinder walls spec. out to within factory guidelines in 8 of the 10 L24's I see torn down. Blue is right - if there is a problem - it's usually head gaskets and then warped heads. At 80/90K most L24's could benefit from a fresh valve job. A lot of engines wind up getting a complete overhaul - just because the actually just needed a valve job. One young lady put over 350K miles on her Z - before her mechanic pulled it for overhaul - This was after she lost a head gasket and over heated the engine. In that case the block had to be over-bored because the cylinder wall tapper was out of spec., but there actually was no excessive wear on the cylinder walls. This was back in the early 80's and she put a lot of miles per year on the car. Drove it reasonably and had her mechanic service the car regularly. Type "A" transmissions in the 70/71's could be problem at 100K or less - the Type "B" in the 72/73 were in good shape up to 150K miles... The truth is - now 40+ years later, with who knows how many previous owners a car has had - if you have to pull the head for any reason - most guys will go ahead and do a complete overhaul. FWIW, Carl B.

Doug - Randy had one that came with a 71 that he purchased from the original owners family member - it was Gold or Orange.. very clean, low mileage example.. Yes, pretty rare to find one.. FWIW, Carl B.

Zedy.. Looks like you are making great progress as usual. Maybe I missed it over the course of this discussion - but what type of LSD is in that Subi unit? Dave - I've had a Torsen/Gleason unit in my 72 for decades now. BSR set it up for me in the mid 70's with 4.11's - the only time it "clunks" is when I backup and at the same time turn. I am told this is common with that unit, as the mechanical parts unload in that situation.. Other than that it has been indestructible and never clunks moving forward - or in reverse if I'm going straight back. BTW - When I swapped out the L24 for an L28 - I found that the 4.11 was unnecessarily low - the L28 has so much more torque - a 3.7 would have been better for my use.. FWIW, Carl B.

Oops it was 4 weeks ago that you ask - but - Yes - put the rear spacers in. There are thrust bearings on the front strut mounts - so the springs can turn with wheels.. The spacers on the rear just set the ride height and installed spring height at the correct level. If the answer was too late - no worry. But if you take them apart again in the future you can put them in then. BTW - the Z really looks GREAT!! Well worth the time and money!! Carl B.

I'm glad it was helpful - just let us know when the next update is ready.. Carl B.

You would need to publish the Date Of Mfg. - someone may have a good harness - that could simply use to replace the original. If you want rewire - and install new gauges - I'd suggest taking a look at HybridZ.org lots of guys have done that. good luck, Carl B.

As long as the Face Plates were perfect - having $400.00 in each radio is reasonable. I would have done the samething... Carl B.

OK Bill - everyone has been to nice - I want to be nice, but I want to provide helpful feedback. So here are my impressions and thoughts.. For What They Are Worth.. You've got a great start... Looking at the sight - if I were a Customer in need of a repair shop.. If the link says "STOREFRONT" - then it should take you to a picture of the Store Front. The customer lounge, the Free Coffee, the Large Flat Screen.. Maybe a Cash Register that you click on to see the Standard Shop Rates. Most of all a place that makes me fell welcome - or at least shows me a picture of the building - so when I'm driving down the street - I'll know what I'm looking for - {I know I can get this from GoogleMaps - street view. But I shouldn't have to go there. If "Storefront" - is actually "Parts For Sale" then it should say that - just like "Cars For Sale".. consistent terms/use etc. I want to see who I'm dealing with - the Shop Owner's Smiling Face {or the team of guys} should be featured right up front on the Home Page.. If people see someone - it moves them closer to feeling like they know them... The tiny picture in the "ABOUT" section showing someone? - is - well too tiny. You have "...., the current owner operators took over, ...." There names should be there. The more I see their names - the more I feel like I already know them.. "current owner operators" sound like they are hiding from the public.. SERVICES SECTION Who am I looking at under that hood? Pictures of people should always be Captioned - or their names mentioned in the accompanying write up. Something like "Bill loves these old Jag's" or "Bill doing that final quality inspection".. CARS FOR SALE Small pictures of the car - should have a caption stating - "Click Here For Larger Image". Not everyone will know to do that.. but I see it works already. CONTACT Should include the Hours of Operation - as well as an Invitation to "FELL FREE to Stop By And Say Hello" if your in the area Every Page should have a "Return To Top" or "Return To Home Page" - - The Shop should also have a very brief "Goal" or "Mission Statement" Right up front on the Home Page. "Our Goal is to do the job right the first time, finish on time, and have a fully satisfied Customer Every Time". Carl B.

That one is way beyond saving.. take a few good parts off and send the rest to the crusher. Carl

Wow... what a great project. But... WHITE.. she wanted it WHITE!! I was really expecting RED! You are really close now - - keep going! We all want to see the car finished and your wife taking it for the first drive.. Carl B.

Zeddyone - what is the axle ratio you are planing on getting? Why such worry about a strong rear gear and set-up? Is a v8 swap in the future? FWIW, Carl Bl

Hi Goob; See this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/50750-need-restoration-advice-71-240z-montreal.html#post442929 Great to hear that the engine turns over by hand. Still you want to do a little more "pre-startup" prep. For sure you want to assure that the valve seals are well lubricated - and that you don't have a valve hanging up. Also that the cam lobs and rockers are well lubricated prior to attempting to start the engine... Who knows? Everything might be fine - but on the other hand no sense getting in a hurry and having something costly get damaged - when it could have been avoided. Work with Datsun Spirit - and you should be in good shape.. Good luck, Carl B.

Hi Blue: Now that you mention it - and I look again - I do see the "rod". Thanks. I completely agree about the evolution of "personal computing" and the "internet". I was on DARPA Net. in 73. {USAF Logistics}. FWIW Carl B.

I'd call it a gloss black - because when it was new, you could wash and wax the gas tank to bring out a high gloss. FWIW, Carl B.

black gold man!! Thanks for sharing this - I can attest to everything written as being true - in spades! I got to ride along with these guys when they came to the Pacific Northwest Datsun Dealers events - at Seattle International Raceway. Along with the 510's/1200's and later the Z's - Nissan would show up with an 18 wheeler stacked with OEM wheels/tires. On Seattle's track the stock tires on stock wheels would last about 20 to 30 laps - before being worn to the tread. Mike wrote; "We sometimes pushed each other around the track or, after a good nudge, slid inside for the next turn. Guppy liked to glide up alongside and open my passenger’s door. " What he failed to mention is that they were doing this at 70mph+ through the corners sliding nearly sideways... with one hand on the wheel.. It wasn't finger prints in the dash - it was dents in the passenger side floor boards - from all of us trying to brake... Ah the really great days for DATSUN when Mr. K was in charge. FWIW, Carl B.

He does a great job with the narration. If the car has a Rebello 3.0L - then it better "do something" below 5K.. He might like to hear it at or above 5K - but to say it has nothing below that - something is wrong. Carl

Hi Blue: +1 on visiting the GarageJournal.com site - spend a few hours there and you'll pick up a lot of very creative ideas. Also +1 on having a polished concrete floor. Many of the major Discount Stores and Grocery Stores around here are using this now - as well as some of the Drug Stores. I was going to recommend a Race Deck floor - I love mine - but I'm not sure how that would work with a heated floor. At any rate do something with the floor before you get much stuff in there.. On the vinyl chip floors - the most expensive, very best of them are excellent. I hear lots of problems with the less expensive, thinner vinyl chip layers etc types. Do a lot of research on that subject. Enjoy the process... Carl B.

From memory - there are 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts. Depends on the year of manufacture. Or was that just with the R200? Secondy - I believe that the rear ends with the large "K" cast in - were built with 4 spyder gears. I think that was the difference between the regular production units and the Nissan Comp. units. The Comp units having 4 spyder gears in an open diff. It will be interesting to see what is inside that new unit.. FWIW, Carl B.

Neat Tool - is there a thin rod - that can be attached - to push down in thinner area's or holes - to measure their depth? Carl B.

Off Topic - but - you too? I'm being forced to move on as well. I hate this!! My 8 year old Mac Pro runs perfectly fine - and does everything I need. But too many applications are "no longer supported" - - - It is kind of like getting "NLA" from Nissan... bummer..

Hi Dale: When the VIN's were gathered - all were reported as running. Going back to that 89xx or 93xx - - in that series I have the following A/T's. 8944, 8947,8958, 9033, 9062, 9090, 9097, 9290, 9310, 9582, 9591, 9603 All A/T's - no VIN's reported in that series as 4 spd.'s so far. First 4 Spd reported past that series of A/T's - 9753. Then the A/T's start again: 12427, 12441, 12500, - - 12658, - - 12746, 12765 - but mixed into this series there appears to be several 4 spd. cars marked with - - in the series. In the 17xxx range - only a few 17574, - - 17595, - - 17631, 17636 Hi GeoJoe: Thanks - it has always been interesting to me to see how VIN's and Engines lined up with Dates of Manufacture - then how/when the A/T's started. Didn't mean to hijack the thread. It "seems" that the first batch of A/T's were in that 89xx - to 96xx range all ran at the same time. Then smaller batches of A/T's were run in the 12xxx range, followed by some more in the 14xxx range. By then they seemed to be mixing production between the 4spd. and A/T cars. So far no A/T's in the Series I cars past 17636 have been noted.. FWIW, Carl B.

But really - get serious - $21K?? Carl B.

Agreed..I'm amazed that there seems to be no reserve - very clean, very low mileage, very stock and original 2 owner Z... If you want a 240Z this is the type of car buy. I wouldn't be surprised to see it go for around $14K. As clean and well cared for as this Z is - it would be a pleasure to do a Concours Restoration on. Most likey the least expensive to do in the end. FWIW, Carl B.

Just FYI HLS30 14799, 14821, 14906, 14959 & 15189 - are all A/T's. Keith - lowest VIN I have recorded with an A/T is HLS30- 07969 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: E-Mail sent.. thanks, Carl