Carl Beck

Make sure that the push rod on the New Master - where it hooks to the brake pedal - is the same length as the old one - Before installing the new one. If the rod can't be adjusted to the same length as the old one - swap the rods. FWIW, Carl B.

I think you mean the P1800 ES right? Mr. Matsuo brought the drawings of a Z Estate Wagon he drew back then, with him when he attended the 40th Anniversary Celebration at Nissan H.Q. in 2010. Of course there is the "CinderZ" that was built as a Custom Project as well.. http://zhome.com/CinderZ/CinderZ2.jpg FWIW, Carl

The NEW aftermarket master cylinders are fine - make sure it is NOT a rebuild.

Hi git: Great project ! Some more questions... Did you strip the undercarriage as well? What are you doing to fight the rust issues inside the panels? {doors, rockers,dog legs, inside the front fenders etc}. Are you keeping close track of the total costs? {aka the slippery slope that many of us have found ourselves on - } Keep the pictures coming - FWIW, Carl B.

I had the problem from about 6:30AM - until 10:45 AM - didn't try the sight every 15 minutes, but about every hour... Just FYI Carl B.

If the undercarriage is solid - it would be a bargain around here for $4K.

Hi Ruffy: Welcome to the group and the Z Car Community. I believe that everyone here will agree - it's your Z and you can do what you want. Past that point if you put a subject up for discussion, we'll all give you our best advice or honest input. It is a Series I car - and if it is in otherwise solid shape - - - I'd spend the money on stock looking floor pans. Presently Street Mod'ed or not, it is a Classic Car. Stock floor pans properly installed will increase the resale value and make it far easier to resell - if/when you want to. On these older Z's the floor pans are one of the first things prospective buyers will look at - and if they aren't right - most people looking to buy a 240Z will just pass it by, or they will discount its value by several thousand dollars. On the other hand, if you are thinking of maybe a big V8, with a roll cage and tubbed out rear... well then the floor pans won't matter. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Zedyone: I think your assessment of what when wrong is most likely correct. But I'm a little confused by the numbers. 0.005" overbore? Did you really mean 0.5mm or 0.020 inch overbore? If that is the case, then your bore is 86.5mm and you would have 461.9cc per cylinder - - yet you list 459.6cc per cylinder {2817.8cc / 6}. Were the pistons built to a custom size? Combustion Chamber volume - 43.5 cc Is that an "as measured number", or as figured based on how much was milled? Be all that as it may. Because of the extreme deck height of the pistons you have - Option 1. Find someone that still has a 2mm HKS Head Gasket - and install that. Option 2. Pull the head - and increase the combustion chamber volume by 3 or 4 cc's. Most guys reported an increase in combustion chamber volume of 3.3cc's by un-shrouding the valves. So I've used that number to recalculate CR. Mixing my numbers with some of yours... I get. if you actually overbored it .5mm thus 86.5mm x 79mm: deck= -1.763 cc {using your .30 mm worse case} gasket = 7.6cc combustion chamber 43.5cc {your number} Sub Total = 49.337cc Cylinder Volume = 461.49 Sup Total - 461.49+49.337 = 510.827 / 49.337 = 10.35:1 CR Increasing the Combustion Chamber Volume by 3.3cc deck= -1.763 cc gasket = 7.6cc combustion chamber 46.8cc Sub Total = 52.637.cc Cylinder Volume = 461.49 Sup Total - 461.49+52.637 = 514.127 / 52.637 = 9.77:1 CR If you over-bored it a full 1mm and have 87x79 then Cylinder Volume = 469.62 cc 469.62 + 52.637 = 522.257 / 52.637 = 9.92:1 CR in that case - you might have to find another couple cc's of volume to take out of the combustion chambers... get them up to 48.8 cc As general advice, I usually say that you want to keep CR at about 9.5:1 for a street engine on pump gas. {93 octane with 10% Ethanol is normal today}. As others have stated, you can run higher CR's but the complexities go up... FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like it sold for $11,600.00. {Winning Bid} Yes - lots of things you can do with a 240Z. The car on EBay is a good example. Resto Mod - L28&5spd. No doubt at least twice, if not more the selling price was put into it. Whoever bought it at $11,600.00 got a really GREAT DEAL {providing everything was as advertised}. For anyone looking for a 240Z to buy and just drive and enjoy - this one was a dream. If someone was looking for a Classic Car - this one wasn't it. The same amount of work and money put into keeping it Pure Stock -if the Original L24 engine was still with it when purchased - - and it might have found a buyer at closer to $18K today. FWIW, Carl B.

John mentioned Greg in "FP" - but the Poster for Morton says "E" yes/no? Are they in different classes or both in one not the other? I am surprised that so few people would give $10.00 so far... Leaving Facebook... | Facebook FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Pete: Welcome back...As mentioned above the Classic Z Car Register is on the Z Car Home Page. the Z Car Home Page If you click on the hyper-link in the Left Hand Frame that says "Internet Z Car Club", that will take you to an expanded index related to the IZCC. Within that expanded index - you will see a Link that says "Z Car Registers". Click on that and the Z Car Registers will be shown in the Right Hand Frame... select the Classic Z Car Register. The Z looks pretty good in the pictures - To View your pictures I just clicked on your User Name in the Post - M333hp - and selected view User Profile. Simple enough. Nice Trailer by the way.. FWIW, Carl B.

If the hood emblems were $8.00 in 1970 - they should be $48.19 in todays devalued Dollars. So just go buy a new one - they will only cost more next year. Carl B.

Hi Gordon: If you take pictures of the car - be sure to include clear photo's of the main area's of concern, that any serious 240Z buyer will have. Yes, it will take some time and be a bit of trouble - but good pictures are what sell cars today in the Internet World. - the area under the battery and on down to the frame rail. - the rear deck lid threshold plate - where the deck lid closes down on it - the dog legs just ahead of the rear wheel arches on both sides - the undercarriage showing the condition of the front frame rails and floorboards - good pictures of the engine compartment and engine - both sides Buyers well want to know if the dash is cracked, they will want to see the condition of the door panels. These are both very expensive to replace. Be sure to list any/all repair/maintance items that you have done within the past couple years. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Tom: That looks like a pretty nice 240Z - it is a shame it was damaged in shippment. Nonetheless, I'm sure you will have to bad to great shape soon. Did you have any other Sports Cars before this? What made you decide that you wanted a 240Z? Do keep us posted on your progress. Carl B.

The original link on the Z Car Home Page aka ZHome.com is no longer there. The Black Pearl Register was started/maintained by Ross Williams - but a few years ago he decided that he could no longer spend the time with it. Unlike some of the other Z Car Registers - it was always a private register, that is to say that it was not published to the public. So at this point, I don't know of any other... Carl B.

NEAT !! the Z looks Great and sounds Great! It looks like a pretty big gathering.. Carl B.

Believe it or not - the actual difference in total weight between the original L28E and an SBC isn't all that much - so if the coils are smashed flat - they were completely wrong for the car in the first place, or someone heated them up to drop the front. How you get the exact ride height you want out of your next set of springs - will be pretty much trail and error, no matter who the vendor is. FWIW, Carl B.

I know next to nothing about differentials - but looking at the OBX on EBay - it makes me wonder why they sell for $400.00 then the Quaif and Torsen/Gleason units were in the $1600.00 to $2500.00 range.. Are these OBX units Chinese knock-off? or what? FWIW, Carl B.

Find and buy a decent S30 Body East of the Mississippi - $5K Build a sturdy L28 for turbo use - add the Engine Management, Intercooler, piping etc etc etc - $8K {at least} Add the 5 spd & R200 another $1K... So there is $14K.. plus a huge amount of work just getting there. Now for "free" - you get all the custom metal work & repaint done to make it a roadster.. for FREE. All the time consuming and very expensive work is done. I don't see how anyone that "wants a Z Roadster" to begin with - could go too far wrong. Don't like the interior or wheels - change them - easy enough to do.. This car just has to find the person that wants a 240Z Roadster.. If your not that person - then no price would seem attractive.. FWIW, Carl B.

On the subject of the gasoline vapor recovery system. Personally, if I were going to drop the tank to clean it and replaced the fuel filler neck - I'd simply eliminate the entire vapor recovery system. Running gasoline vapors inside the passenger cabin was a very bad idea to begin with. There are Threads that show you how to here on the Forum. FWIW, Carl B.

What car are you talking about?

Take a torque wrench - and tighten the two big nuts - which should be on big washers - that hold the differential to the mustache bar. If they are at all loose.. it will make a pretty loud noise. FWIW, Carl B.

Speaking of finding the "right one" - can you tell us more specifically what you are looking for? Or what your plans are for one.. a) one to buy, detail, drive and enjoy {$12K to $16K} one to buy, fix up, then drive and enjoy {$10K to $12K} C) a non-running Project - that is in restorable condition {$5K to $10K} D) one to buy, drive on weekends to local shows and enjoy {$18K to $21K}. FWIW, Carl B.

The metal plates look like they are "Toe Kick Guards". They were an AMCO Accessory back in 72. Although they seem a little larger than I remember. I think I still have a set somewhere. They are intended to protect the door panels from being kicked accidentialy while getting in/out of the car. To bad they didn't make a "guard" for the left side of the drivers seat... BTW - that door panel looks like it is in pretty good shape.. FWIW, Carl B.

Before I attempted to replace the front strut and axle... I would take a cut off wheel - on a die grinder - and cut the bearing's metal shell in half. It should then peel off the axle. You might need to then use a wire brush to clean up the bearing seat on the axle. The metal used in the bearing shell is not near as hard, nor strong as that used in the axle. Chances are good that the axle is fine - you just need to remove the old bearing metal. FWIW, Carl B.