Carl Beck

This is the GTA I would buy - if I could buy it. An Insult to Shoestrings | Hemmings Motor News Lee Midgley was the co-driver with Peter Brock at the 1973 Baja 500 - in the BRE Baja Z. Although competitors on the track Peter and Lee were friends that teamed up for the Baja.. So I have a little "Alfa" history mixed into the Baja Z.. I do agree - I would like to own a really clean, STOCK GTA - I'd take that Yellow One!! If you want one - you better grab it NOW - as they are going up in price weekly. Carl

Too bad he didn't show pictures of the undercarriage - nor the dog legs - nor the rear deck lid threshold - nor the area under the battery tray.. Looks like the muffler rusted and fell off.. "Might" be a real jewel to restore - but with that dent in the hood it wouldn't do for a "Survivor Class" competition. "IF" it is in really good shape underneath - should bring close to $10K even in California. Perfect dash and really good door panels would save spending $2500.00 on them alone.. Carl B.

Wonder if anyone has actually purchased paint mixed to the above PPG Formula - and if so how did it turn out? Carl B.

A couple days ago - someone said they knew someone that was reproducing the inspection lid clips for the very early Z's.. Question who was that? Is there a source for these somewhere? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Guys; Great Resource - thanks. Carl B.

Yes - the chrome trim is supposed to be there. Why not just buy the one you Pictured - $50.00 would be very inexpensive. You should be able to order the rivets from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. FWIW, Carl B.

I've never had to replace a Speedo Cable.. so never ordered any. Good to know the scuff plates are hard to find. A friend of mine - many years ago - had some made out of stainless steel - I've used them in my 240Z's as they haven't rusted from moisture. FWIW, Carl B.

Bought my first 240Z in March of 1970. Drive it for about 20 months, put 68K miles on it - sold it for $4500.00 in Dec. of 1971. {more than I paid for it}. Then bought the 72 240Z that I've always kept. Thus started my love for the Datsun 240Z, and my friendship with Paul Jaremko.! FWIW, Carl

BLUE Posted This to another thread - thought I'd copy it here as the Subject Line will make it easier to find, or draw more attention. Should answer Montezuma's concerns about over restoring the car. FWIW Carl B.

At the end of 1971 - when we received our first 114 Metallic Brown 240Z - no one was sure if they liked the Brown or not as it came off the truck. Once off the truck it went to for Pre-Inspection and then to the Detail Shop as usual. By the time it came out of the Detail Shop - it had the 14x7" wire mesh Appliance Mags fitted with D70 bias belted Goodyears, and a bright yellow and green pin striping. The bright yellow strip was about 1/2" trimmed on either side with a dark green pin strip… The car was polished/buffed and glazed to a high brilliance. It was STUNNING! In the sun - the original color was quite a bit lighter than most of the pictures you see today. I decided at that point I would take a Metallic Brown 72 for myself. I waited and waited…but we didn't get another one in for months. So I took the Metallic Blue 72 that I have today.{well that I had until I gave it to my son last year}. Of course a couple weeks after that - we finally received a few more Brown Z's… If you look at this image - it is closer in color to the first one's we received. http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/114Brown.jpg Funny thing too - spiffy240Z's Z and the one pictured above also have the Appliance Wire Mesh Mag's.. Just my perception - but it seems that the 114 Brown Z's darken with age. "spiffy240Z's" picture shown the color on the shaded side of the car and it "looks darker" in that picture - than that color really was originally in the sun. Next in 74 the 260Z came with a 301 Bronze Metallic - and that is perhaps one of the best colors I've seen OEM on the Z's. None of the pictures on the Web seem to show the actual bronze color.. all look way to 'brown". FWIW, Carl B.

For the Silver Paint = you use a Paint Pen. You can get them at any Hobby and/or Crafts Stores. Carl B.

Great job Jim - I enjoyed watching it.. Carl B.

No... it looks like they copied the Mustang article by mistake there.

Hi Brian: Great progress - that is the only way to go about it - do it right the first time and you won't have any regrets later. Keep the progress pictures coming - Carl B.

Looks like you started with a pretty clean Z to begin with - and for a 240Z it had very little rust. Great project - keep at it - and be sure to enjoy the process. Once it is done, a lot of the fun will be over.. but you'll have a great Z to drive and enjoy. Keep us Posted on the progress.. Carl B.

You have time - I'd keep looking. On the budget you set - it will be hard find any 240Z that is going to be reliable. Better to stay with an all stock example - as that will reduce the number of variables you would have to trouble shoot when something does go wrong. This one has has an incomplete color change, bumpers blacked out instead of rechromed and aftermarket carb's - to me - that all says "modified on a budget"... as opposed to making the most desirable mod's. - - but that's just my opinion.. Don't get in a hurry - go look at least 15 cars over before you buy anything.. It is very easy to buy a car - but it can be a real hassle to try to resell one your not happy with. FWIW, Carl B.

I always thought that "DIP" stood for - Dual Inline Packages. Carl B.

Some very sad news: It has been reported that Mr. Nanba, 1st President of NISMO and Nissan Rally Manager - Passed Away in Japan yesterday. Still waiting on more details. FWIW Carl B.

Yes - Go Air Force! Good for him... After sitting for for so long - after undergoing a complete repaint, with everything blacked out under the hood - really impossible to tell. Nonetheless - I would expect a 39,000 mile engine to be in far better shape over-all - at least cosmetically. I certainly hope that you are right. However, many times the undercoating covers up rust that forms under it. You'll have a much better idea once you get the car stripped down. Likewise the Tar Mats on the inside of the floors. - lots of times they too cover rusted metal. Well - "unmolested" except for a complete color change, blacked out under the hood etc. Looking at the over-all condition - looking at the condition of the engine compartment - I would guess it has a lot more than 40K miles on it. Very hard to tell what the condition really is under that repaint. You didn't say if you could drive it before you bought it - but if it was in non-running condition - but with a fairly straight body.. $4.5K to $5.5K wouldn't be too bad a price to pay in Mich. A bit more if you were able to start and drive it 25 miles or so.. Nonetheless - it looks like it would be a good start on a Project. Keep us posted on your progress.. FWIW, Carl B.

No - you are thinking clearly. Sell the 280Z and find a great 240Z. If you "think" you'll have regrets now - you will for sure have them later. If 50 years of car buying has taught me nothing else - it has taught me that. The DATSUN 240Z is THE car that changed the Sports Car world overnight. It is a significant part of U.S. Auto history - as it opened the doors in America - wide to the acceptance of Japanese Cars as being World Class. {not to mention changing Japanese Auto History}. The 280Z will never have that distinction. That is also one of the main reason the 240Z are so Collectible - They are a Milestone Car and now most certainly a true Classic. The only reason to "restore" or "refresh" one today - is because you love the process of doing it yourself. To love that process and devote the necessary time and money - you for sure want to start with a car you love - not one you settled for. Shop, shop and shop some more - buy the cleanest, lowest milage, best cared for example you can find - no matter where it is - pay the money up front - it is always far less expensive in the end. FWIW, Carl B. BTW - the above said - I would love to have a really original, low mileage, super clean 280Z. But only after I had a 240Z. No reason to only have one.

Might be a mistake on that engine number.. With that VIN the original engine should be something closer to 3434 or even 4434. A 1400 series block would be extremely rare even in a 10/69 production car. If you have a newer "low number" block - hope it is above 3506... as that is where Nissan started using the newer crankshaft design with additional counterweights.. As for the color - if you like the color after seeing it outside - I say keep it. If it really drives you crazy - then go ahead and disassemble and repaint. Shouldn't take anywhere near the same effort as it did the first time - as all the body work is done.. So your only talking about sanding, and respraying.. Nothing to pulling the doors and fenders off at this point.. The shop should be glad to to it for $2K to $3K - not anywhere near $15K.. FWIW, Carl B.

Interesting - Man asks if there is an experienced Z mechanic {no need to be professional - but experienced } - - that is willing to come to his home - and show him how to change the head gasket. Offers to pay what a Mobile Mechanic would charge - but wants to do the work himself - hands on. Needs "a quote for instruction". Later offers $500.00 {I don't think you would get a Mobile Mechanic to change a head gasket for that amount - but oh well.. 8 well intentioned replies with "Do It Yourself"… but that isn't what was ask. Is there no one in the L.A. area willing to make $500.00 for a couple of days of expert, or even experienced instruction? No one even knows of such a person in that huge area? No mechanics willing to stop by after work and pick up a few bucks? This kind of reminds me of the old Signs I used to see at some Mechanic's Shops LABOR: $65.00 per hour LABOR IF YOU WATCH: $95.00 per hour LABOR IF YOU HELP: $145.00 per hour LABOR IF YOU BRING YOUR OWN PARTS AND HELP: $250.00 per hour FWIW, Carl B.

"Mr. William R. Gorham: Providing direction for Japan's mass-production and high precision technology." It is great to see that William R. Gorham was inducted into the Japan Automotive Hall of Fame {JAHF} this past Sunday. He was certainly a significant contributor to industrial Japan in general, and more specifically to its early automobile industry. "Mr. Ryuichi Tomiya: Challenge to develop Flying Feather and ultra-compact economy cars." At the same time - Ryuichi Tomiya was also inducted. Ryuichi Tomiya was a Stylists, Designer and car builder. Among many notable things, he designed the Leaping Hare hood ornament for early Datsuns, did Advertising Artwork for Datsun as well as Interior Design/Build for Datsun. He is perhaps best known for his Design work on the Flying Feather and Fuji Cabin micro Cars {one of which just sold for $140K} You can review the Program here: http://www.jahfa.jp/JAHFA_PR2_2013.pdf William R. Gorham's Grand Daughter and her husband, were on hand for the Induction Ceremony, If you would like to know more about William R. Gorham - and the early history of Nissan, you can buy the book "William R. Gorham: An American Engineer In Japan" Paper Back from Lulu.com $14.96 Digital .PDF copy from Lulu.com $4.41. William R. Gorham - Lulu.com From Amazon: William R. Gorham: An American Engineer in Japan: Don Cyril Gorham (translator): 9781411655492: Amazon.com: Books Digital Book from Apple iTunes: https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/william-r.-gorham/id484258428?mt=11 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Greg - Since I couldn't be there - - YES - I want to hear all the stories... Carl

Great Video - thanks!!