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nsanow

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About nsanow

  • Rank
    Registered User

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Portland, OR
  • Occupation
    Account Executive

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1971 240z. Has fiberglass fenderflares in the back and side skirt. Engine has dual weber carbs, mallory dual point distributor, 6 in 1 header, rebuilt e81 head, L24 engine bored 50 over, 2.5 in exhaust, konig spings, MSA struts.
  1. I need a new knock sensor for my turbo motor rebuild. Does anyone know of a good replacement? Nissan stopped making these. I read on another forum the Standard Motor KS109 is the same sensor but want to verify before I drop $180 on a part I am unsure of. Thanks for any help provided.
  2. I did further investigation on ebay and the center fuse cover is from a 1973. Is there a good way to connect that into a 1971 harness or am I better off just not using the lights?
  3. Long story short I had an electrical fire in the dash harness thanks to a Car Toys stereo install! DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR THERE!! They only know plug and play installs. But I digress. The entire dash, seats, etc is pulled and I am having a professional restorer completely redo the car. I bought a new correct dash wiring harness from a great guy on this forum. The only problem is that I know my center console is not a 1971 version as I have just a single choke lever hole and it has an arm rest cover instlled. But since I have it all apart the choke cable switch is long enough to reach up to the front of the center console. The front panel of the center console that covers the fuse block has the rear defroster switch to the left, Fasten Seat Belts in the middle I think and then orange light to the right. I think I can find the plug from the harness for the rear defroster which did work before the fire. The fasten seat belts light and choke lights never worked and we cannot find any plug for these on the original harness and the choke cable plug doesn't seem to have the proper mate on the harness we can find. Any ideas on what years I am dealing with? We could not find where this all plugs into the new 1971 harness. Anyone have these parts in a good condition they would be willing to part with if needed?
  4. For what it is worth I had my Borg Warner T5 tranny professionally rebuilt a few years ago and installed and BM short shifter. The total cost was $999. I would rebuild and then at least you know you have a very good tranny if you are going to keep the car for a while.
  5. Thanks for the reply and Mac's in Portland is just a few blocks from where the car is being repaired for the electrical. Thanks as always for the feedback
  6. I had an electrical fire in the dashboard and have completely gutted the car and dashboard with new wiring harness. Before I install I am looking at a 41 year old rusty heater core and wondering should I replace it or take it to a shop to have it refurbished? It doesn't leak but since it is exposed I am wondering if now is the time to have it either replaced or gone through. It looks like MSA may carry them but I am wondering if they are good or is better to have mine refurbed? How much refurbishing can a radiator show do?
  7. I have the same issue. I need 3 of the 4 clips if anyone has them. The only one I have is the clip for the long cable that goes up by the blower motor. This is for a 12/70 build 240z.
  8. So I started pulling the dash apart. I didn't need to get far to find the issue. I had a new stereo installed a couple weeks before the fire. I pulled the heater control panel and what did I see. I complete mess of wires that the installer just left, many uncapped and that is right where my spark and meltdown occurred is my guess. If it was the Ammeter wouldn't I find the meltdown right at that gauge? So now I get to see what the process for Car Toys is.
  9. Looks Good. I just PM'd. I always want to take care of my fellow Z car friends so I am happy to pay a fair price.
  10. I chased a problem like this in my 12/70 240z. I changed everything. Ended up being a bad brake booster. Didn't make sense since I literally had new everything from lines, calipers, drums, etc. That fixed the problem. My issue was no pressure and then brakes would grab at the last second before the pedal hit the floor.
  11. Ammeter is the guess of the local auto electric specialist as the most common cause. He must be amazing because when I called him he said he was nearly a year out before he could look at my car! I can't imagine waiting a year for a rewire but if you good I guess.
  12. Yes I still need it. But I am curious everyone's thought of the longevity of replacing the harness than a new rewire.
  13. My VIN is HS30 18116 so that is a 12/70 build date from what is can tell. I haven't dug into it yet as I am just getting ready to tear in to it to see what I find. I upgraded the alternator a few years ago with the kit from Dave Irwin as well as it has his headlight relay and parking light relay. I had a local car stereo place install a new radio that I wonder if that did something. I also pulled the gauges, cleaned them and installed led light bulbs this winter. Since I am planning on keeping the car for a long time I want it done right. I can fix many things but the electrical is not one of them.
  14. I have a 1971 240Z and earlier this summer I had a major electrical fire. Something happened and the main wiring harness in the dash melted. I have had this car for 6 years and plan to have it another 30 years so I am more interested in fixing it once and correctly. Are there any companies that will remake a wiring harness? I am also thinking if I am going to upgrade the wiring harness I might as well upgrade the gauges since this is more modified than original. Anyone have any ideas? There is an auto electrician here in Portland, Oregon but it is a minimum of $1,500 up to $3,000 depending on what he finds and I am thinking if I can get all new parts and then have someone install it even better. Lastly, there are harnesses for sale on ebay but I don't know if a 72 or 73 240z harness will work.
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