grannyknot

That's a great idea, less chance of movement starting in the first place. I'm just playing around, not sure if I will use any of them. The last Z I had was clean of badges except for the two Datsun badges on the front fenders and there always seemed to be guys getting real close to the car on the highway trying to figure out what kind of car it was, so I stuck a 240z badge on the rear spoiler and that seemed to help. Maybe I was imagining it. Make it real make it steel, that would be best and I might have to go that way if I can't get the aluminum one to work. Rape, chewing gum ?

Gottcha, I think you are right, NNOS instead of NOS

I have read many times about vibration noise because of poly bushings in the mustache bar but I have never noticed any. The car had fairly new rubber bushings on the M bar when I got it so I left them in but after a year burned them out and replaced with poly while I was trying to eliminate a clunk in the rear end.

Don't want to split hairs but aren't those just new stock, new old stock would have the Datsun name in the center.

Techno strip uses 4-5 separate tanks, the first one I guess would be a strong detergent then a solvent ... I know their process is acid based, I asked them. He also said the asphalt tar mats would come off with no problem, better him than me. I'm thinking that maybe you are pulling my leg? Trying to picture this rig out on your driveway, the Z up on a rotisserie with clear plastic sheeting forming a pool/reservior, a long pipe with holes drilled in it as the shower head and an old motor geared down so the car spins slowly so that all surfaces are kept wet . I can just see the look on your wife's face With some time on my hands I'm starting to second guess decisions I have already made, here is one the aluminum driveshaft adapter I made, I'm thinking about the threads of those M8 bolts and what may happen if I can't torque them properly because of the aluminum. Can anyone advise me if Helicoils installed with Locktite into the aluminum flange would give anymore strength? There has been a couple of threads in the last year that dealt the hinge flange breaking off the rear hatch so before I get into the paint I thought I would throw some extra welds on mine just in case, thought I would start playing around with the badging, I'm open to suggestions,

Never heard the Mouse Hole name before but an anvil expert placed it 1830-1840 London, 140lb

I can still hear that sound from Fred's feet as he got his rock and wood car going.

My wife asked me the same thing before writing it on the roof, wouldn't that be great if instead of needing a $5000 paint job it could all be done with $40 worth of magic markers. Welcome to the forum.

The yellow one is a $10 unit used for tests I'm not sure of, if it blows no great lost, the Mastercraft is the most accurate, the old analog is the work horse and the Klein is mostly used for continuity. Why is that the continuity function has been dropped from newer multimeters?

I had to look that one up Site, Took the car down for dipping today, they said it will take a week to go through all the steps so I get it back next thursday morning. Of course, NO photography of any kind allowed on the premise, but I only found that out after I had taken a few pics.

Just redid all the harnesses with this stuff, looks great and easy access to wires.

Both my fenders are out in the storage shed but I can check them tomorrow morning if you like, but the outer edges of the cowling that meet up with the fender at that spot is pretty flat so ... if you have your cowl handy put it up the the edge of the fender and see how it looks.

Better now then when you hang the fender for paint.

Any other photo you may have seen is the result of photoshoping by the Hugely dishonest media, I admit to nothing.

Rich, I took inspiration from you but had to bring out the big guns, BFA?

It's a Wilwood 2lb residual pressure valve, it will keep 2 lbs of pressure in the rear brake lines so the pads are right up next to the disc, the parking brake mechanism on the rear calipers only moves one piston 1/10th of an inch so I want to be able to take advantage of all of that movement. The archives have many threads on rear calipers change overs reporting lousy parking brake action so just trying to be proactive. CO, the Cunifer brake line is so malleable I didn't use my contraption much, I pretty well bent it all by hand.

In my defense, I had my wife write that because my hand writing is so messy. She never makes spelling mistakes! I don't think I will tell her that it is on the internet now.

yes heater box and blower go in first then dash. Well, I'm not sure how much extra threads need to be cut, I just ran the the threading die down the adjusting rod an 1 1/2" to be on the safe side. I would never presume know what the Capt. is talking about but there is a small return spring in the hand brake handle and the larger return springs on the disc brake calipers to release the pads from the park position. CO, I'm going to lay on the charm and do my best to get those shots of the car being submerged but I won't be surprised if there is some legal stipulation preventing me. When I was there in the summer to get the gas tank cleaned I looked over to the dipping tank area and it was dim, steamy and grungy. Cooling my heels for a few days as the trailer service I have hired to do the 4 transports can't fit me in until Wed. This is the engine test stand from last summer with all of the upright supports cut off, it will now be the transport dolly until the drivetrain is installed. Technostrip mostly deals with industrial hardware and American classic cars so I thought a bit of cheap insurance was in order,

You could just tag along in front or behind them and hang out with them at the stops, roads are still free

Dumb question, the force making it harder to turn would be magnetic force? I'm in grade 8 science class again.

Just thought I tie up this thread with a nice bow, the flaring tool from Eastwood is a dream to use as is the Cunifer brake line. The only draw back is now I have one more thing to polish cause there is no way I'm letting this bling go dull. Not a big deal really, a bit of 0000 steel wool and it's gleaming.

The 4-6" that the hand brake handle moves only translates into 1/10" at the pads, having the shoes drag a bit will ensure that the full 1/10" is able to be used. With all the problems that have been encountered when changing to rear discs I just want to make sure I have done everything I can to make sure they work the first time. Can't get the car on the road without a safety certificate, can't get a safety certificate without a mechanic pulling up on the hand brake. It has to work and it's easier to do it now then later. Really it's only half a pound per pad.

Reached a milestone to today, all pre-chemical dip work has been completed now. All new brake, clutch and fuel lines have been made, fitted and removed, also finished building the rotisserie so when the car comes back from the dip I can start working on right away. I couldn't find a better place for the Megasquirt ECU than the glove box so before installing it I covered it with thick plastic sheeting in case of a leaking windshield seal that I don't notice in time. Captain O, I think I figured out what you did to lower the hand brake, with this little tab cut off the hand brake handle drops about 1.75" Here is all the new brake and clutch lines, you'll notice a Wilwood 2lb residual pressure valve I installed just after the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. After reading many threads about the lack of good a parking brake when you convert over to rear disc brakes I did some measuring and found the rear pistons only move 1/10th" when fully engaged, this is plenty enough movement to hold the car but only if the pads are right next to the disc. The 2lb residual pressure valve is going to eliminate one of the possible causes of parking brake woes. Here she is almost stripped and ready to go, hopefully the next photos I post will be be of her being lowered into a boiling acid bath.

Not in Ontario, not if the car is 1987 or older.

Takhli, love the detail.