grannyknot

Well now you have to show us, what's that forum saying, "Pics or it didn't happen" The thread on the slave is metric, M10x1, the thread on the Tilton M/C is 3/8"x24 and the fitting on the left of that pic is the 3/8"x24 to M10x1 adapter but it extends the clutch line out another inch and then intereferes with the washer bottle. I was hoping to do it with one fitting, I guess I'll just have to shave more off of the washer bottle mount. Thanks

Just for fun I pulled out my very expensive Mcgyver type soda baster and basted both sides of that engine mount, Then with a Q-tip I coated the bottom two quadrants in each pic with GIBBS wonder oil, let it sink in for an hour or so and rubbed the excess off with a cloth. I don't know if is an original look or not but it's a good look I think, certainly easy to take care of, you just apply more.

The BaT car has different bumpers, wipers and a passenger side mirror and the paint is in much better shape but it might be the same car,

Now it could be because the needles on my scaler are still new and still have a sharp edges and that will round off with use.

Now how are you going to match up those AN fittings to the brass hose barbs or the steel fuel line?

Like this, very nice,

That's a good question, just went out and found an old cast aluminum engine mount and wiped it off with a rag. The scaler was used for about a minute on the left side black line. The first two pics are before,

Pretty slick, got to love a well thought out stealthy modification, now you just need some good speakers up front. http://datsunworks.com/page3/page2/

Some good ideas on this thread, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123146-240z-tank-modification/

Eastwood finally came through, this is a sweet little tool, well made and good action. It makes a wide variety fitting ends. Here is a single bubble flare or step 1 of a double flare, A double flare, It even makes a good lip for fuel lines by engaging the 3/8" flare just a bit, The Tilton clutch master cylinder requires a male single flare and I'm wondering if I can use a single bubble to mate with it. Anybody know if I can do that?

^ will do

Hey, I tried your air scaler idea, works great, especially in the morning before the shop warms up and the tar is cold. Thanks

It's the original? Forget everything I said about taking it apart, it will be disgusting inside, throw it out and buy new. You got your moneys worth out of it you cheap buggar

Mark, if you do make your own connecting plates I can talk you through it if you like, it's pretty simple but there are a few little tricks that will make it pro looking. PM me if you are interested.

Yes that is just down the road from me, I will try to contact him. Although now that I have promised to buy a can from Jim I might get Gibbslapped for buying one locally.

So basically your giving it away

Yeah that's the rear most seal on the Master that has gone. Since the M/C has to come off anyway you might as well disassemble it, maybe some crud got between the seal and the bore.

$17,000 now, looks pretty clean, seeing lots of polyurethane in the wrong places but let's get the betting started, I'm going going to say it goes up $27,000 and either sells or doesn't make reserve.

What Canada Post doesn't know won't hurt them, besides that is just the lawyers talking.

It has been a while,... I think I just googled poly spring spacers then found one with a similar diameter and the height I was looking for, I had to cut it to get the step and shaved off the the upper edge to match the stock perch. You will need proper spring compressors to get the shock nut on, I was trying to eliminate the rear end sag that sometimes happens with Eibach lowering springs, this how the car sat with those 3/4" spacers on the rear, to my eye that is the right height for these cars.

Site, you don't really have to plug the carb intake holes, you could leave them open with no problems, makes the job 50% easier.

Amen brother, no more beers though, I was enjoying way too many

In a pinch you could use a isolator/riser like in the pic but newer spring would be the best solution.

No, the new studs are now proper length, the pic above shows how much thread is engauged in each case, the stock studs are technically not long enough for after market aluminum mags although I'll bet most of us have driven thousands of miles under the same conditions. Like this, Seems a shame to cut such a small piece off of a full rocker panel but then I haven't taken the car down to bare metal yet so who knows what other rot I will find it comes back from the dippers.

Thanks boys, Ryan, when I get it done you can take it out for a rip. I spent several hours today re tapping all the stock welded in nuts, there is got to be over a hundred and as soon as you think you have all of them done, you find more. I was tapping the front sway bar nuts in the frame when I felt the nut break off inside, so I cut into the frame to rescue my tap and repair the bracket inside, there was virtually nothing left of it. In the pic below the driver side sway bar bracket in on the right, what is left of it but the frame around it is still good, passenger side on the left still whole and pretty solid. Very strange, anyway I rebuilt them and upped the strength a bit since I'll be installing a thicker sway bar. I ordered 16 new wheel studs and when I started replacing them I noticed that there was only 11mm of thread on each stud holding the wheels on, I think the general rule is 1.5 times the dia. of the stud(12mm) of engaged thread. The rear studs are a little longer to compensate for the thickness of the brake drum. I guess the studs where sized for the stock steel wheels and it`s the aftermarket aluminum wheels that are pushing the limit. After 45 yrs and dozens if not hundreds of times having the nuts run up and down those threads I guess it`s time for some fresh studs and nuts.