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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. I went to the fabric store and bought 4 yds of thick flannel, cut it half and folded it over then I put a rare earth magnet at either end to hold it on, works well.
  2. When painted the 510 last winter I bought a gallon of paint and a gallon of reducer for $500-600.00, blue paint is always more expensive because of the solids. Just yesterday I picked up a half gallon of white paint, half gallon of reducer premixed, I paid $400.00 and white is the cheapest colour. So yeah the prices have gone up. High build primmer $100, hardener $30, a gallon of thinners for clean up $22, clear coat and activator $260, now I can tell you if those have gone up since last year, I have to have them so I don't look at the price. To paint a car with quality materials your looking at least $3,000 ebay for the LED strips The polycarbonate is 3/16th thick, the black pipe is ABS from the hardware store, the straight blocks are glued with epoxy panel bond, the flexible block I used Permetex Polyurethane glue.
  3. I do have a 2ft by 2ft fan blowing out the small access door on the main garage door, you can see it on the right side of the pic just above your last post. That is running all the time that I'm spraying. Primer doesn't put much of anything into the air so that doesn't seem to be a problem, paint and clear coat do so when painting I have to stop occasionally for a minute and let the mist clear out. Clear coat really mists up the air but since I'm going to wet sand all of the clear anyway I don't worry about it, overspray from the base colour coat is my only concern so I have to go slowly and take short breaks to let the air clear. It's certainly not ideal but I have learned how to work with it. Boom, yes always top of mind, the propane burners open flame is never on while spraying, I'll also turn off the big overhead radiant heater while spraying paint or clear only leaving the electric radiant heater on. Once the car and panels are up to temp. they stay warm enough for the 10 min. it takes to get a coat on everything, as soon as the mist has cleared I turn on all the heat to let everything cure.
  4. I have a 8 ft ceiling mounted propane radiant heater, a 3ft electric radiant heater near the door and portable propane burner that I can move under the car to heat the metal up. The big furnace fan that condenses the water out of the compressors air does double duty by keeping all the air in the shop moving around. There are so many cracks and gaps in that big garage door that fresh air is something I don't have to think about. If it's below 0 Celsius then it can take about 6hrs to get everything up to temp, 68-70F but it's easy to keep it there once all the objects in the shop are warm. If it's like -10 C there is no point trying to get it up to spray, the heat gets sucked away too quickly. I finished installing the LED strip lights this summer and it's great to have twice the amount of light than I use to, also those long lines of light are perfect for showing ripples and waves in the paint.
  5. I got all the paint off, sanded down to fresh metal and laid on 2 coats of epoxy primer, there will be no rust starting this time around. I tried to order a set of the new Acrylic Linear blocking tools but everyone was sold out so I ordered some polycarbonate sheet and put these together. I'll never go back to the hard foam blocks, these cut so fast and flat. 2 coats of high build primer went on next and that has been blocked out to 220 grit and I put another 2 coats of HB primer on today so I should be able to start with 320 tomorrow morning. I picked up the paint and clear so I'm all set, the colour will be Sport Classic Grey is 63A / L63A. a Porsche colour.
  6. Yes very slow sometimes, one trick I use is when I have identified myself as an existing member and it busy loading I go back to my favorites list and hit CZC.com again and the page comes up immediately with me logged in. It faster than waiting to be logged in. Also, every time I login these days I get an email notice that the site has never seen this device before, well it is exactly the same desktop I've been using for yrs, no change.
  7. It is the Xenon air dam, but be warned you will have to brace it as it is very flexible and will distort at speed.
  8. Yeah, makeshift coolant recovery tank, as I remember the early cars just had a tube running down the side of the rad that emptied onto the street.
  9. I was referring to this one, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-210/
  10. Thanks, I've never heard of this stuff before, looks like it's worth $35 to try it out. So many applications. https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/E-100/blackout
  11. Just noticed that the output and return gas lines are awfully exposed to debris flying up from the rear wheel, you might want to fabricate a sheet metal guard that will give them some protection. That`s a big tank, you should get a good 400 miles between fill ups.
  12. No, there wasn`t a cover for the signal hole but it would be easy to make a rectangular strip of rubber sheet, punch a hole in the center, slip it over the signal rod and tuck the rubber inside. Just make sure that it is long enough so you don`t see the ends with the signal engaged.
  13. Well they are stainless steel so you would have to roughen up the metal with at least 120 grit to get anything to stick. But with keys they are probably going to chip pretty quickly, especially the rear hatch lock pushing in and out so much.
  14. Oooo, that's the kind of Z I like, so much potential. But of course it's in CA.
  15. The reason that a lot of Z's rust out in that area is because the rain gutter ends too soon and dumps water right on to that spot and that spot also slopes back in toward the car so the water just sits in a pool until it evaporates. I started adding an extension on to the rain gutters to remove the water completely.
  16. How is $56.00? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1971,240z,2.4l+l6,1209158,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+cylinder,1952 It does sound like the wheel cylinders, so gummed up with crud the pistons don't want to retract. Do yourself a favor and replace both sides while your at it.
  17. Most of the aftermarket controllers are adjustable, they are preset from the factory but there is usually a small white slot screw. I tweaked mine to on at 200F, off at 180F
  18. Sounds like one of those previous owners I was talking about had a go at your car, mine aren't slots anymore either, someone drilled them out.
  19. The 2 holes on either side of the hood are for front to back adjustment, no height. The 3 holes on the body side of the hinge are height adjustment and sometimes back and forth depending on how a PO has modified them for their needs.
  20. You may also have to remove the grill to get at those 3 bolts holding the hinge mount to the body, a second person is a real help with this adjustment, have them push the left side down even if it goes down father than you want it to, don't worry it will spring back up once those 3 bolts are tightened.
  21. I use the adjustability of the doors, fenders and hood so I get equal gaps on both sides, sort of an eyeball thing. Start with the doors and establish a good usable gap between the trailing edge of the door and the front of the rear panel so that the door opens and closes perfectly, then the cowl but don't lock it down, keep the bolts finger tight, then the hood. Keep the hood open while you put the fenders and sugar scoops on, then very carefully start lowering the hood looking for possible contact with the fenders as you lower it. Once the cowl, fenders and hood are on you start doing minor adjustments until the gaps are as equal as possible on every side. That's just how I do it, others start at the front and move back to the door gap.
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