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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. And there she goes to a new home, I'll still get to see it few times each summer which is good but I don't mind telling you I shed a little tear as she left.
  2. I'm pretty sure it is on that thread. One of a kind.
  3. I don't know if this is considered cloth tape, it's more fuzzy than that, anyway I've been using it a lot to wrap harnesses.
  4. I'm installing the LED sequential tails from Easy Performance for the new owner. The kit is very well made and the lights are very brights but there is one major flaw in their design, the microprocessor that allows 7 different modes of sequencing can't tell the difference between you putting the signal on or you hitting the brakes. So you slam on the brakes and the guy tailgating you doesn't see brake lights, he sees the taillights going through an entire sequence, red and amber moving lights first before the brake lights come on, about 1.5-2 second delay before the solid, unblinking brake lights start. Confusing, dangerous and I'm sure probably illegal. The only way to have normal brake lights is to have no sequential signals at all, the very thing you bought the kit for in the first place.
  5. And here is the newest of those wax/oil sprays and one of the best I have used, none of the product comes out of the front of the tip of the clear plastic wand, only out of the sides so as you pull it out of the frame or channel all of the wax goes where you want it. Unlike the Eastwood frame spray you can easily do an entire car with one can, Eastwood takes 5-6 cans. Gotta love SEM products.
  6. Other than on a race engine it's probably just a feel good thing but nothing wrong with that. That is what these cars are all about.
  7. I checked all the things listed above and they are working again, not sure which one it was but it's all good.
  8. Every time I put a 240z back together I run into the same problem, push the horn button and you get a click with a bit sound from the horn then nothing. I can't remember what the fix is, anyone recognize the symptom? Thanks
  9. Thanks Chas but in this case I'm just restoring my own modifications, real restorers might take offense
  10. Well I'm just waiting on the new LED headlights and the recovered dash to arrive before I can finish everything up. Engine is in, gas tank installed, all the brakes done and bled and I reconfigured the exhaust system so there is more ground clearance. @Careless gave me hand getting the glass in the other day, thanks again Raf.
  11. The hood was the last piece to be done today, tomorrow I start dropping the engine back in.
  12. I started wet blocking with 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500, finished that up yesterday and started cut and buff this morning, one more day and I'll have the paint done😊😊😊
  13. Will you make the brace out of steel or having it machined out of aluminum?
  14. It might just be the oil was contaminated with coolant, in any event don't run the engine with that white oil! Drain it and put fresh oil in, start the engine and let it run for a minute, turn it off and check the oil through the filler cap and dip stick. If it looks normal take the car for a good hours drive to get the engine up to temp and to drive out any water that may still be in the oil.
  15. I seam sealed again before undercoating the car and got her down off the rotisserie. I should have the rest of the suspension installed tomorrow and back down on the wheels by the end of the day. I've been trying to keep the shop as warm as I can to fully cure the clearcoat. Some guys start sanding after 24hrs but that's got to be California, I think I'll block it out with 1500 to break the surface and let it out gas for another week.
  16. I know it looks similar but it's a Porsche colour this time. I have the winter off so spending 8-9 hrs out in the shop 7 days week, sure beats working.
  17. The paint is done! Always a good day when the last coat of clear goes on, I can let the stress go now. I'm going to let it cure for at least a couple of wks before starting the wet sanding.
  18. I went to the fabric store and bought 4 yds of thick flannel, cut it half and folded it over then I put a rare earth magnet at either end to hold it on, works well.
  19. When painted the 510 last winter I bought a gallon of paint and a gallon of reducer for $500-600.00, blue paint is always more expensive because of the solids. Just yesterday I picked up a half gallon of white paint, half gallon of reducer premixed, I paid $400.00 and white is the cheapest colour. So yeah the prices have gone up. High build primmer $100, hardener $30, a gallon of thinners for clean up $22, clear coat and activator $260, now I can tell you if those have gone up since last year, I have to have them so I don't look at the price. To paint a car with quality materials your looking at least $3,000 ebay for the LED strips The polycarbonate is 3/16th thick, the black pipe is ABS from the hardware store, the straight blocks are glued with epoxy panel bond, the flexible block I used Permetex Polyurethane glue.
  20. I do have a 2ft by 2ft fan blowing out the small access door on the main garage door, you can see it on the right side of the pic just above your last post. That is running all the time that I'm spraying. Primer doesn't put much of anything into the air so that doesn't seem to be a problem, paint and clear coat do so when painting I have to stop occasionally for a minute and let the mist clear out. Clear coat really mists up the air but since I'm going to wet sand all of the clear anyway I don't worry about it, overspray from the base colour coat is my only concern so I have to go slowly and take short breaks to let the air clear. It's certainly not ideal but I have learned how to work with it. Boom, yes always top of mind, the propane burners open flame is never on while spraying, I'll also turn off the big overhead radiant heater while spraying paint or clear only leaving the electric radiant heater on. Once the car and panels are up to temp. they stay warm enough for the 10 min. it takes to get a coat on everything, as soon as the mist has cleared I turn on all the heat to let everything cure.
  21. I have a 8 ft ceiling mounted propane radiant heater, a 3ft electric radiant heater near the door and portable propane burner that I can move under the car to heat the metal up. The big furnace fan that condenses the water out of the compressors air does double duty by keeping all the air in the shop moving around. There are so many cracks and gaps in that big garage door that fresh air is something I don't have to think about. If it's below 0 Celsius then it can take about 6hrs to get everything up to temp, 68-70F but it's easy to keep it there once all the objects in the shop are warm. If it's like -10 C there is no point trying to get it up to spray, the heat gets sucked away too quickly. I finished installing the LED strip lights this summer and it's great to have twice the amount of light than I use to, also those long lines of light are perfect for showing ripples and waves in the paint.
  22. I got all the paint off, sanded down to fresh metal and laid on 2 coats of epoxy primer, there will be no rust starting this time around. I tried to order a set of the new Acrylic Linear blocking tools but everyone was sold out so I ordered some polycarbonate sheet and put these together. I'll never go back to the hard foam blocks, these cut so fast and flat. 2 coats of high build primer went on next and that has been blocked out to 220 grit and I put another 2 coats of HB primer on today so I should be able to start with 320 tomorrow morning. I picked up the paint and clear so I'm all set, the colour will be Sport Classic Grey is 63A / L63A. a Porsche colour.
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