siteunseen

Completely forgot about those! You the Man.

Do you have SUs and their air filter? That's where my valve cover vents to. And then the block goes to the balance tube, where the PCV valve is. If you have triples, nevermind. There's some guys on here that'll chime in later on that have that set up. Keep bumping the thread up.

Those heat shields go in front of the brake fluid reservoirs I believe. You can put two nuts onto a manifold stud and tighten it down. Put one on and run it down about a half of an inch then put the second on, tighten it next to the first on then use it to tighten the whole stud. You could center drill the broken one then get a reverse thread E-Z Out, or put a nut on top and have a welder fill the center of the nut to the stud. Back it out with a socket.

Now I understand why some people call the #918 Mexican Orange, it has more umber tint to my eyes, not truly orange like the 022. I like the 022 too.

I told Bender to "bite my shiny metal a**".

Adding that in my head, from what I bought for mine a few years ago, $400 is a very fair price.

Awe come on! Don't leave us hanging. Is everything okay? Runs like a "scalded" dog now?

I read "Canadian beaver, no pants".

Beautiful car! I hope you break a high sale record. Cliff

Here's something that shows a picture of the Nissan part number Mr Lon supplied.

Speaking of keyboards, it appears to me you've traded off the flip phone? I wish I could wet my whistle. Maybe wash this pollen out of my head. I am heavily medicated and bored to death. Been in bed for a week with allergies. Stepping back into a four hour coma now.

zero = wedding ring equation error

I snuck a screwdriver out in my back pocket one night but I drank it before I got in the car. I was wearing "uhm khakis", and sounded hideous I'm sure.

And where I come from a 6 in the bed is worth 4 tens at the bar.

Tap it in with a rubber hammer.

Or! you can take the depth slider on a micrometer and stick it #1 cylinder. Get the highest mark of the piston top. I've done it both ways with the head on trying to get my timing right when I first bought the car and switched to a zx dizzy. Ended up dropping the oil pump then pulling the motor which is still on an engine stand after a year. Brahahahaha! Skin comes off a cat many ways. 8^)

I measured the bottom of the pivot end of the #1 & #2 rockers from the head. When they were equal to each other it was my tdc. Using a micrometer. FWIW.

Okay, now you've lost me. How do you line up the crank and the cam without using the bright links and the dimples on the crank drive gear and the cam sprocket? When I install the chain's bright links onto those dimple marks the key slot is straight up and down.

Thanks guys, that makes perfect sense. That's why I didn't think about it, too simple! I have removed the front one from my 280 after installed. Another panicked brain fart from a gassy guy!

Looks good to me! I messed up my headgasket where the cover goes under it. Too many beers, I's pissed when I put it back on. Good luck with yours.

I know this is common knowledge to builders but I just figured it out. The key in the crank nose and the dowel on the front of the cam should be straight up. You can remove the pulley and the valve cover to check that. I made the mistake of pulling my front cover for no reason just because the shiny links on the timing chain weren't lining up with the dimples like they did when I set it up. Zed Head set me straight on that, thank you Zed! They only line up every so often.

I need some ideas please! I started fitting the header and rear slinger on and realized I do not have enough threads for my crimp nut to work. Went to Nissan then Fastenal, no luck. The guy at Fastenal suggested buying a M10-1.75 bolt that was long enough, hacksaw the head off and use it as a manifold stud. He didn't have one in stock. I'm using the M10 because that rear hole was wollard out and what I have is the longest Nissan has in that size, it's for their Titan 8 cylinder pickup. Tomorrow I'm gonna hit the hardware stores and try and find one in stainless steel. It needs to be about 2&1/2 inches long to bottom out in the head then attach the header and the engine slinger. Do y'all think that's a good idea or should I find an alternative way of lifting the back end of the motor & transmission combo? Thanks for any advice. Here's what I have now;

I just thought of something! I can put them on the sides of my grinding wheel, they're nice and flat and not too aggressive, then the flat file. Thank you so much! I needed that little push.

That's what they sent me too! Did you just run them over a flat file until you got them down enough? Thanks for any advice.