siteunseen

What the heck is lumbar? I thought that was back support in seats. So did a seat fall on your z? Lumber I know. And the lsx is the motor in the camaro your wife got hit in, right? you're going to put that in a miata? Interesting. How is your wife doing now? Better I'm hoping. You'll still help us out after the z is gone, also hoping. Best of luck! Cliff

Is the cranks key slot straight up along with the cams protruding dimple that goes into the hole on the cam gear? Not sure how accurate, or eloquent as Zkars says, those descriptions are but they should both be straight up.

Wouldn't you need to install the valves and springs for testing? or is there a way to close up the valve seat without the valve?

I was curious about the nylon locking nuts and salty roads, they would be better in that situation. But down here in the deep South, not so much.

Are they designated for Canadian dealerships and American?

Compression stroke? Shiny link on the crank gear dimple?

Extra nuts are always better.

I guess they got cheap on my cars, single nuts on all three of them but they are crimped nuts. Eww that hurts just typing it.

Would you go all the way, Libre wheels too? You would have a BRE look alike with automatic transmission. If I were going to sale it for another project I'd keep the expense money tight for the other project. My two cents.

It doesn't have the hump like my early ones like Chas says.

I know we're talking about an early car and originality, but just for a little bragging here's how one of mine turned out after bead blasting.

My exhaust nuts.

I've heard conical nuts before but jet nut is new to me. All my exhaust manifold nuts are that way. I bought them from Nissan too. If you could have seen what I took off you would believe me when I say they were original to that car. The bushings crumbled in my hands.

I get that a lot, thanks!

Hopefully I did it right by jacking the front of the car up first. Then I used a piece of 1x4 and a bottle jack under each side front tire, crammed the tire and wheel all the way up into the fender well. Then everything was loosey goosey enough to assemble all the thingys correctly. Then I coated the threads on the rod and the nut with loctite, torqued to 50 lbs then moved to the other side. I'm confident with what I did because that nut wouldn't torque against the rubber only, it hit the central tube pipe thingy.

They're a tight fit for sure, some oil or assembly lube wouldn't hurt on the sides if they're that tight. I used a rubber hammer on mine, about half way the bolts will catch some threads and you can pull them down with the bolts. I ran the bottoms of mine across a file. Make sure the numbers are in order and the arrows point to the front. The middle one and the rear are the tough, or anxious ones for me. I learned a trick from Dizeased on the rear, stop about an inch short of bottoming out and insert the "nails". Push them all the way down then tighten the rear cap down. It's nerve wracking as hell to me too so don't second guess yourself too much.

Sounds like that guy didn't like spending time with his wife, as in he stayed in the shop and she stayed in the house.

It may have been a nylon nut, I didn't look like one but that does make sense seeing how it never caused any trouble until I removed them for the new bushings. I had some blue loctite here so that's what I used for the time being. Now that I know these will be a problem in the future I'm planning on redoing all the nuts I removed for the Energy Suspension kit. I'll get some red Loctite for that job. Thanks for the heads up.

Poly in front, rubber on the backside. A nylon lock nut is a great idea! Thanks for that Nobel Prize winning thinking.

Yeah, back in my high school days I could drink a beer, smoke a cig and change gears driving my 280 with my knee. But I do think 16 year olds will have a hard time doing it with the newer front wheel drive cars. My phone has "talk to text" but my southern twang isn't recognized by the phone's feature. Anyway, the parents are falling for it and he's making good money.

I had one fall off in my driveway luckily and put it back on this morning, torqued to 50 lbs per FSM. Went to the other side and it was very close to falling off! I changed all those bushings out a couple of years ago and never thought about the nuts backing off but they do. I used Loctite on mine but another member said he put two nuts on each side. I'm going to get a couple of extra nuts and do that myself someday. It drives like it's on a rail again, very responsive in the curves. Thought I'd share a little FYI.

Stopped by the Nissan dealership this morning trying to find a drive shaft bolt I need, lost one somewhere during the rebuild. I was talking to a salesman that said he was killing it selling manual transmission cars, Altimas mostly, to Dad's that wanted the safest car for their kid. His sales pitch is they can't text and change gears at the same time and insurance is cheaper for manuals. I've never thought about it but it's the truth. He's won Salesman of the Month for the past few months. Something to think about for parents.

The reason I say that is hardly ever have I read of a bad fpr. It's always something else like bad injectors or the ecu. Get it running and clamp off the return hose. I wasted a lot of money thinking my way. These cars are different from anything I've ever worked on, that's why I love them. Worst or best scenario in my opinion is switching to a set of SU carbs like rossiz did. Its cheaper in the long run in my opinion. Cliff

Dont buy an adjustable fpr. Replace if bad. If it still runs bad clamp the return line building more psi. If that helps install a potentiometer in line with coolant temp sensor. Many have done this tweak myself included. Car rus great now.

That's what I did. Standard fj707t, made in south carolina. Cheaper than cleaning, comes with a solid band clamp too. Not stainless steel though but you'll use them somewhere. Rockauto.com is where I got mine. Fyi