siteunseen

The hole is circled in red. I had already sawed the EGR base off thinking I could have it welded up but my welder friend said it was too far gone, as in rotten aluminum, nothing to weld to. The picture of the mirror is just for show, I was looking at the heat shield bolts. That hatch picture is what I mean by "sloped deck", you'll run into that phrase when ordering things. It's a way of saying early '77 or late '77. You'll see a cord with a hook that attaches to the hatch gas tubes to hold it up if you haven't already, it's on the driver's side. Hope this might help someway. Oh yeah, here's the color codes. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

Just like mine. It was built in late '76 but titled as a '77. Fuel sending unit drops in from the top, under that access cover. Does your's have the sloped up rear deck before the the brake light cover? Mine had a N47 cylinder head with a oiling cam plus a spray bar, oil pressure gauge read kinda low which worried me until I learned that. There was a factory recall on the coupling that attaches the tube from the BPT valve to the EGR tunnel on the underside of the intake manifold. Serial numbers were from 350001 through 410516 and if was fixed there should be a sticker under the hood but not always. Mine wasn't fixed and it rotted a big hole in the intake causing a vacuum leak, ran like crap and the previous owner parked it. I bought it years later and when rebuilding the motor I discovered this, put a better intake on and did away with the EGR and BPT valve. Still ran bad up to 2500 RPM then it would pull hard. Put a potentiometer in the coolant sensor wires and it runs like a champ now. Take a hand held mirror and look under the rear of the intake where the EGR is, your's maybe bad or loose. I'll try and find the pictures right quick.

It's pretty simple compared to the vented 240 tanks. Time consuming but easy if you plan it. I can post some tips when I'm on my pc. Red-kote instructions are a good start, google it. Weekend project that cost me $50 in materials. Not too bad IMHO.

I wish more members were that honest.

What ever happened with the programmable ECU? Fire box or something there about?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02a01g

Nissan still has the whole assembly. I bought one a few months back, somewhere around $40. Then I put an led bulb in, less heat that brittles the lens.

Those tech tips are helpful especially if you're new to the Zs. Jeffs rusty tank is a very common problem. I've done 2 of my 3 cars so far. One of the best tech tips for me was how and what filter to install right out of the tank, catches the crud before the pump and the front filter plus its cheap insurance. Fram G3 filters are like three bucks. If they get nasty pretty quick you can bet the tanks crudded up. That crud will mess up a fuel pump! Your car looks alot like mine. Side trim and louvers. Look for a sticker on the radiator support for the color code. Mine's 305. Have fun and be patient with the old girl!

Yes welcome to our club. You've got it made with Jeff 15 minutes away. If it's '77, double lucky! A former member, hopefully not for too long, has a '77 and has done just about everything imaginable to it. Documented with great pictures and directions that are simple to follow. Google "Blue's tech tips" Cliff

You have it out of the car, why not take it to a machine shop and have it vatted? Have the bores honed too. I had a 2.4 block done a few months ago, $75 for everything.

They go on the back heavier end, like this? C man put up a diagram above.

When you live on "Southfork Ranch" like JR, you need a Gator.

I've got these two pieces. Will they work on a 240 pan? I have a ZX pan. Thanks guys!

One more question (for a minute), I bought the stainless bolt set from zcardepot. Half are short the other a little taller, pretty sure those are for those flat steel rails which mine doesn't have. So the first time I used them on the sides where you can see daylight through the holes on the block so they can't bottom out. Does that sound okay? The longer bolts on the sides. Thanks for the advice.

I found one at Sears for $50, HF $18. Looks like I'll get some windshield time this morning! Actually when I first saw them they have "20 to 200" written in the description, damn, can't use that I thought. INCH POUNDS!!! So for 7 foot pounds I want to set one at 84", right?

I agree Captain. Putting a small bottle jack under the tireless front end of mine, without the motor of course, to get the outer tie rod bolt out lifted the whole front end off the jack stands. Very little effort pumping the jack. I'd guess 200lbs at the most on the front end without brakes, suspension and steering. My altered statement was more of the altered state of mind, he looks to be a construction worker after a few beers. The younger guys in back seem to be smiling at his effort.

The guys in back look like they are laughing at the altered guy in the front.

I'd have to drive quite a distance to HF. Maybe I'll check Sears for a craftsman, they're right down the road. This is going turn out to be a "blessing in disguise"! I remembered putting the bottom end together right after the biggest loss of my life, so far, my best friend Jelly had died. I dealt with the loss by drinking and wrenching. Bad deal. I'll report more tomorrow when I'm using my laptop. Country boy fingers on this phone don't work very well. Thanks again guys, y'all are the best!

7 to 10 pounds according to Tom Monroe's book. I don't have a small torque wrench just do them gradually by feel. Never dimpled one so far. Why do the later cars have those flat steel pieces that go on the outside? Neither 240 I've disassembled have those.

That's pretty much what I've already been told so I'm sorry. My main concern is where to start with the bolts. I have a little itty bit of anxiety if you can't tell.

Did you guys rough up the pans lip? Should it be free of paint? Luckily, well unfortunately to me, it's STILL on the motor stand. Could I put a thin layer of aviation sealer on the block, position the gasket and wait to let it set up then coat the exposed side and lay the pan down. Put the corner bolts in finger tight then work from the center out towards the corners? Or start in the center working my way out? Thank you all for helping, this is my last gasket!

The RTV on both sides didn't work well for me, I put down a very thin film and it had dried before I could get the pan situated. Now I'm getting ready to try again with a little thicker gasket like the one Rossi used, from MSA I'm pretty sure but it was with a bunch of other stuff I got with a car I bought. I'm going to use the Aviation sealer, like above, in the four corners on the pan. I think I'll use golf tees in all the holes to keep it lined up while I'm putting in the bolts. Also I think I'll rough up the paint on the pans lip, the first time is was slick as glass and the gasket slid around. I'm not planning on using anything on the block side. If anybody can add to my plan, or take away?, I would appreciate it. I still have to paint the pan the right color, BLACK, so it'll be another day or so; it's too cold outside to spray. This 2.4 motor is wearing me down! The 2.8 I did a few years ago was much easier and my first car motor. Thanks, Cliff

I got a nice raw satin finish with 80 grit coal slag through a suction tube sandblaster, fuel rail too. 220 grit sandpaper for the raised lines and "Nissan-OHC". Then sprayed it with high heat clear satin. Looks better in person though, this picture was more for the intake.