siteunseen

I was curious about the nylon locking nuts and salty roads, they would be better in that situation. But down here in the deep South, not so much.

Are they designated for Canadian dealerships and American?

Compression stroke? Shiny link on the crank gear dimple?

Extra nuts are always better.

I guess they got cheap on my cars, single nuts on all three of them but they are crimped nuts. Eww that hurts just typing it.

Would you go all the way, Libre wheels too? You would have a BRE look alike with automatic transmission. If I were going to sale it for another project I'd keep the expense money tight for the other project. My two cents.

It doesn't have the hump like my early ones like Chas says.

I know we're talking about an early car and originality, but just for a little bragging here's how one of mine turned out after bead blasting.

My exhaust nuts.

I've heard conical nuts before but jet nut is new to me. All my exhaust manifold nuts are that way. I bought them from Nissan too. If you could have seen what I took off you would believe me when I say they were original to that car. The bushings crumbled in my hands.

I get that a lot, thanks!

Hopefully I did it right by jacking the front of the car up first. Then I used a piece of 1x4 and a bottle jack under each side front tire, crammed the tire and wheel all the way up into the fender well. Then everything was loosey goosey enough to assemble all the thingys correctly. Then I coated the threads on the rod and the nut with loctite, torqued to 50 lbs then moved to the other side. I'm confident with what I did because that nut wouldn't torque against the rubber only, it hit the central tube pipe thingy.

They're a tight fit for sure, some oil or assembly lube wouldn't hurt on the sides if they're that tight. I used a rubber hammer on mine, about half way the bolts will catch some threads and you can pull them down with the bolts. I ran the bottoms of mine across a file. Make sure the numbers are in order and the arrows point to the front. The middle one and the rear are the tough, or anxious ones for me. I learned a trick from Dizeased on the rear, stop about an inch short of bottoming out and insert the "nails". Push them all the way down then tighten the rear cap down. It's nerve wracking as hell to me too so don't second guess yourself too much.

Sounds like that guy didn't like spending time with his wife, as in he stayed in the shop and she stayed in the house.

It may have been a nylon nut, I didn't look like one but that does make sense seeing how it never caused any trouble until I removed them for the new bushings. I had some blue loctite here so that's what I used for the time being. Now that I know these will be a problem in the future I'm planning on redoing all the nuts I removed for the Energy Suspension kit. I'll get some red Loctite for that job. Thanks for the heads up.

Poly in front, rubber on the backside. A nylon lock nut is a great idea! Thanks for that Nobel Prize winning thinking.

Yeah, back in my high school days I could drink a beer, smoke a cig and change gears driving my 280 with my knee. But I do think 16 year olds will have a hard time doing it with the newer front wheel drive cars. My phone has "talk to text" but my southern twang isn't recognized by the phone's feature. Anyway, the parents are falling for it and he's making good money.

I had one fall off in my driveway luckily and put it back on this morning, torqued to 50 lbs per FSM. Went to the other side and it was very close to falling off! I changed all those bushings out a couple of years ago and never thought about the nuts backing off but they do. I used Loctite on mine but another member said he put two nuts on each side. I'm going to get a couple of extra nuts and do that myself someday. It drives like it's on a rail again, very responsive in the curves. Thought I'd share a little FYI.

Stopped by the Nissan dealership this morning trying to find a drive shaft bolt I need, lost one somewhere during the rebuild. I was talking to a salesman that said he was killing it selling manual transmission cars, Altimas mostly, to Dad's that wanted the safest car for their kid. His sales pitch is they can't text and change gears at the same time and insurance is cheaper for manuals. I've never thought about it but it's the truth. He's won Salesman of the Month for the past few months. Something to think about for parents.

The reason I say that is hardly ever have I read of a bad fpr. It's always something else like bad injectors or the ecu. Get it running and clamp off the return hose. I wasted a lot of money thinking my way. These cars are different from anything I've ever worked on, that's why I love them. Worst or best scenario in my opinion is switching to a set of SU carbs like rossiz did. Its cheaper in the long run in my opinion. Cliff

Dont buy an adjustable fpr. Replace if bad. If it still runs bad clamp the return line building more psi. If that helps install a potentiometer in line with coolant temp sensor. Many have done this tweak myself included. Car rus great now.

That's what I did. Standard fj707t, made in south carolina. Cheaper than cleaning, comes with a solid band clamp too. Not stainless steel though but you'll use them somewhere. Rockauto.com is where I got mine. Fyi

Here's something from Energy Suspension that make sense on what grease to use. What kind of grease should I use before product installation? Answer: We recommend Energy Suspension's Formula 5 Prelube. This is included in most kits which require lubrication and additional Prelube may be purchased from your local Energy Suspension authorized dealer. If you are unable to use our Formula 5 Prelube, we suggest using a synthetic, water resistant marine-grade grease for optimum lubrication and retention. Energy's Formula 5 Prelube may be purchased in bulk for commercial shop use.

I'm with you! He hadn't been back but what's the angle? Some kid, I'm guessing, with wishful thinking.

A small flat tipped screwdriver will pry the injector's clip up enough to slide the connector off, at about a 1/4" up it pop into the next indent and stay. Then the connectors will slide off. Squirt some dielectric grease into the connectors before you put them back on. The OE band hose clamps are stainless is the reason most people try to reuse them, they're better for high pressure too. As far as dripping fuel on top of the cylinders, I would take the plugs out and let it evaporate and maybe spin it over to to get the rest off the tops. All the fuel hose on my '77 280 is 5/16" high pressure line. I think it's easier to take the whole assembly off as to just get the fpr if it's an earlier style, the later 280's only have one inlet on the side and another outlet on the bottom to the return. The older ones have two inlets on the sides, PITA. I made my own fuel rail but they're is a guy that makes them, search google for "pallnet fuel rails". I just copied his but I have a drill press and the taps needed so I had to buy the aluminum rail stock off ebay and the barbs, cost me $50. Look at Blue's tech tips for some pictures on fuel injectors, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm